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Join Date: Aug 2005
07-02-2015, 12:10 PM
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I have a liquid force nose rider surf board. The fiberglass looks to have peeled/stripped off on some of the nose. Its not a traditional crack so i was hoping to get some ideas on how to fix it.
I also wanted to see if there were any opinions on how bad it is to continue to use it in this condition. I am going on a boating vacation next week and probably wont have time to fix it before then. I have attached some pics. I appreciate any advice and if more pics are needed just let me know. Thanks again in advance.
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Join Date: Oct 2011
07-02-2015, 3:09 PM
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It de-laminated not sure how much damage there is.
You could - mix some clear araldite (epoxy glue) and rub it in
Or get some clear fibreglass resin and rub it in
&for speak to your local surfboard repairer who might suggest something similar
If you get water in it will continue to delaminate - will dry out but not ideal. Even if you patch it may icntinue to delaminate - might be worth sending the picture to LF and asking if common.
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Join Date: Apr 2010
07-03-2015, 9:28 PM
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What you have here due to blunt force is the fill coat and gloss resin has separated from the lamination and fiberglass, along with other cracks. The board likely will take on water. Best thing to do is sand it some to roughen it up and re fill, etc., etc. The white fiberglass fibers will wet back out some with resin, but not completely likely.
In a pinch you could use a sticker to cover it or clear packing take. High quality stickers and tape will hold.
Get a nose guard.
http://shredstixxusa.com/ding-repair...uard-longboard
Nick
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Join Date: Aug 2005
07-04-2015, 2:58 PM
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thanks for the replys. No real surf shops here in Utah. I ended up taking it to the sporting goods store, Scheels. They fixed it for $10. I figured that would have been the cost for me to do it but i get their experience in doing it right. Very happy with the results. I also plasti-dip'd it as well to help protect future problems.
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Join Date: Dec 2013
07-07-2015, 11:33 AM
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LF makes a cheap repair kit. I have one and for on the water repairs it works pretty good. Here's a link below. You can get it anywhere LF is sold. This was just the first link I Googled
http://www.bartswatersports.com/cata...0M11/index.asp
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Join Date: Mar 2013
07-08-2015, 11:48 AM
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The guys at Fred's Marine in Layton know about this stuff. Last time I was there they had the Inland Surfer repair kits which would work on this board.
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Join Date: Apr 2015
07-20-2015, 1:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
07-31-2015, 12:56 PM
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+1 for Solarez! I have done a bunch of repairs on boards that I have purchased used. Cut off any loose materal. Rough sand. Clean with acetone. Apply solarez and smooth to shape. Put in the sun for 3 minutes. Sand to correct shape. Done. Less than 10 minutes to get a bomb proof repair. I was shocked the first time I used it to see how easy it was and what a good repair it made.
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Join Date: Jul 2007
08-03-2015, 1:05 PM
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which Solarez product do I use on a Soulcraft surfboard, the epoxy repair or the polyester repair?
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Join Date: Apr 2010
08-07-2015, 10:42 AM
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Tony, you will want to use the epoxy version. Some SC are polyurethane, but most have EPS cores with epoxy and poly finishes.
Frankly, no professional will use UV cure epoxies. They are awful, off color, yellow rapidly, never harden hard enough to properly sand and only provide an poor physical bond, not a chemical bond to the original resins. UV cure fix kits are good for temporary fixes when traveling, that is about it. The shelf life of the kit is pretty short. If your board is off color, already yellow, or from an overseas factory made with cheap resin, then the color is not as big of a deal, but if it is a new white board, made in the USA or Australia with high quality resins, that ding repair will forever be a brown spot on an otherwise nice looking board.
Nick
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Join Date: Jul 2007
08-07-2015, 1:44 PM
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Nick, what do you sell for repair? and suggest that I do?
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Join Date: Apr 2010
08-07-2015, 2:09 PM
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Tony, I sell two kits. One is the Chaos Kit, and differs from all other kits on the market in that I pre-measure out the 2:1 epoxy. You get multiple vials of epoxy resin and hardener already pre-measured to the proper amount, along with all the normal other stuff like fiberglass, some sandpaper mixing sticks and cups, gloves, instructions, etc. It is the same epoxy used on your board, and that vast majority of custom wakesurfboards.
I also sell a Phix Doctor kit, which is very similar to my kit, except the resin and hardener are not pre-measured.
Getting the mixing ratio correct and climate control are important aspects of using epoxy. Surface prep is important for all ding repairs.
http://shredstixxusa.com/ding-repair/
Nick
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Join Date: Jul 2007
08-10-2015, 2:19 PM
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Nick, I'm going to cut off the tip of mine, since its all banged up anyways. Will your kit be enough to glass in the nose? Its a 5' board and would like to chop off the tip and turn it into a blunt nose. If this is not possible, I will just fix the tip.
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Join Date: Apr 2010
08-10-2015, 7:53 PM
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Yeah, there is a enough to re-glass the nose. However, you might consider how much you are chopping off. The will change the overall rocker and may prove to cause more problems than it fixed.
Nick
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Join Date: Jul 2007
08-11-2015, 10:37 AM
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prob only cut off a couple inches, hopefully it doesn't mess it up.....
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