585 watts is a lot of power per each Rev10. As an example, for a 10-inch subwoofer to truly handle 600 watts RMS it usually has a larger voice coil than the Rev10 midbass driver. However, for me, it represents zero risk because I have zero tolerance for compression and I know exactly what the first signs sound like. I would certainly enjoy every watt of that peak & instantaneous power given my choice of music and yet I would never approach the continuous thermal limits. In pursuit of musicality, I want the max peak power which isn't particularly threatening to the speakers thermal capacity. Music power is different from a sine wave test tone and your music differs from mine. The final phase of the very best sounding system has to be performed by ear and by someone well initiated with an analytical ear. The voltage method only establishes a maximum and safe guideline. But you can still screw up a perfectly tuned system with bad material of bad origin or the misuse of equalization. I'm trying to point out that there are no guarantees you will get perfection with a test disc and a multimeter.
But here is as close as you can get. The 'safest' method would be...with the boat at rest in the water, with fully topped off batteries, take your rpms to 2.5K and set the gains zone by zone using a 0 dB signal at the 14.4V power rating voltage. That is as high as the amplifiers will ever produce. The 0 dB signal should compensate for any deviation.
A hand held scope or distortion detector would be more accurate for finding true clipping at a particular voltage. But again, music is different so the final fine-tune is done with real music by ear.
I know that Odin with Earmark Marine rents his full system customers a distortion detector at no charge, plus walks them through a final tuning process that is extremely sophisticated as he has a ton of pro sound engineering experience, is a musician, and understands gain structure better than anyone I've talked to.
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