Surge Brake Question?

(hemihauler) · (hemihauler) **Join Date: Jan 2006** 04-19-2006, 7:42 PM

I have a Sport Boats trailer for my Cal Pro V. I checked the fluid and it seems to be empty. I made sure the trailer was level. The plug you pull to check says "Fill to bottom of plug" Does that mean to fill to the bottom of the rubber piece the plug fits into? Also what type of brake fluid do you use? Sorry if these are dumb questions, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

(dedicatedwse) · (dedicatedwse) **Join Date: Apr 2006** 04-19-2006, 7:55 PM

DOT 3 brake fluid should be just fine (standard stuff)

I'd fill up the resevoir as much as possible. More fluid isn't going to hurt you.

You should bleed the brakes if you really did run empty. Not too hard to do, but you'll need someone fairly strong (ie not your wife) to pump the fluid.

(awf_axis) · (awf_axis) **Join Date: Aug 2002** 04-19-2006, 8:43 PM

You need to check carefully about the fluid type. Some trailers use Silicone fluid, which has a much higher boiling point.

DOT 5 (Silicone) is an extreme type of fluid, and usually found on tandems with only 1 braking axle. It with stands much more heat.

The drawback is that it is finicky, and holds air bubbles in suspension. This means that if you have let your brakes go dry, you really need to bleed the whole system carefully.

Info about DOT 5.

http://www.se-r.net/brakes/fluid.html

(zride) · (zride) **Join Date: May 2001** 04-19-2006, 8:52 PM

Dot 3 brake fluid is what you want to use. I would double check your backing plates on the trailer. See where the brake line comes into the back of the plate. Is it leaking? Or are there signs of a leak? That would be the reason why the fluid was empty. The brake line goes into the brake cylinder.

(greg2) · (greg2) **Join Date: May 2002** 04-19-2006, 8:53 PM

If it's empty you should bleed the brakes also...they don't work quite as well with air in the lines

(zride) · (zride) **Join Date: May 2001** 04-19-2006, 8:58 PM

How much do they need to be bled. Do you just get a constant flow of liquid and then tighten the line? I kinda have delt with this as my trailer brake cylinders wentout and I replaced both of them. There is still a little play in the tongue, which drives me crazy when I brake then go, and I bled the line a couple times, and tighten the master cylinder screws with it all the way forward. I want a new trailer, with fold away tongue, four wheel disc brakes, new springs, new tralier board carpet..... that would be nice......how bout a mo phatty triple axle.

(hemihauler) · (hemihauler) **Join Date: Jan 2006** 04-19-2006, 9:05 PM

How do you bleed the brakes on a trailer? Done them in a car but never a trailer.

(awf_axis) · (awf_axis) **Join Date: Aug 2002** 04-19-2006, 9:07 PM

4x4 lumber behind the rear trailer axle. Put the tow vehicle in reverse, jump out, and bleed the zirc fitting. Jump back in the vehicle, pull forward, put in reverse again...

(rvh3) · (rvh3) **Join Date: Jul 2003** 04-20-2006, 6:00 AM

If you have $50 laying around, get a brake line vacuum kit. Takes around 5 minutes per side and can be done with one person.

http://www.dhmtrailers.com/online/product.php?productid=1534&cat=83&page=1

(greg2) · (greg2) **Join Date: May 2002** 04-20-2006, 7:46 PM

I bought a vacum kit as well for mine from Autozone for about $28. Took me about 10 min to bleed the brakes by myself. Good investment and still cheaper than taking it to a shop for service. This should eliminate some of the play in the tongue.

(boarder_x) · (boarder_x) **Join Date: Mar 2006** 04-20-2006, 8:06 PM

Ok, so if I get one of these things, how do I use it? I noticed today, when I took my boat out to wash it, that the brakes had rust on them. I figured a couple stop lights would take care of that. ... Nope.

I don't think I have trailer brakes.

(trace) · (trace) **Join Date: Feb 2002** 04-21-2006, 6:41 AM

i think it's easier to bleed brakes with a helper, but the vacuum pump works fine too. MityVacs are useful for a lot of things beyond bleeding brakes, too. if you have help, take the stinger (ball mount) off of your tow vehicle and hook it up to the front of the trailer, the leverage makes it much easier to pump the actuator.

IMO, all surge brake systems are crap. i've had 3 different types, and problems with all. this is by far the least reliable part of my boat, and there is NO WAY you'd find a braking system this unreliable on a passenger vehicle. hydraulic brakes are not rocket science, either - i don't understand the problem with building a good system.

(rvh3) · (rvh3) **Join Date: Jul 2003** 04-22-2006, 9:24 AM

Robb,
Easy to use. Just attach the vacuum to the bleeder and it sucks the air/brake fluid into the cup reservoir. When all you get coming out is brake fluid, tighten the bleeder. Then move on to the other side and repeat.

(cyclonecj) · (cyclonecj) **Join Date: Jul 2001** 04-23-2006, 7:34 AM

Here is how to do it, it's a crude doc and specific to my trailer (ameratrail) but the brakes are the same as on most boats, UFP calipers with a trailer buddy actuator. It shows how to do it with one person and no vacuum pump.

http://www.epicmarine.com/docs/Epic%20Brake%20maintenance.pdf

(boarder_x) · (boarder_x) **Join Date: Mar 2006** 04-23-2006, 3:15 PM

Pete, (cyclonecj)

I think that's your name.. .. I hope so. You are the man. Those are very good instructions. I did go to dhm's website. Luckily they are actually just down the road. I think I will be buying lot's of stuff from them.

Thank you,

Robb

(cyclonecj) · (cyclonecj) **Join Date: Jul 2001** 04-23-2006, 6:22 PM

No problema

Pete;)