Irreggular Winterization question

WEll here's my dilemma......Gonna be picking up my new ride from somewhere warm where they don't winterize......Being here in Chi Town it's -8. The boat would be stored in a heated garage until summer, but it is going to be a 14-18hr ride in the cold to get the boat back home......Think there is anything to worry about with regards to stuff freezing? or you think I"m good. Probably would be around 18hrs to 20hrs in the cold temps, most likely less, but want to figure top end.

You think it would just be worth the winterization to be safe or think I"m good? Would love to have it winterized, but want o drive it before I hand over the $$. NOt sure howmany delaers would do a while you wait winterization.

I wouldn't worry about it if that's the max time it's going to be exposed to cold. If you are really worried setup an appointment with a dealer in the area and tell them your situation. They might charge you more but they should be able to do it for you while you wait.

You might just pull the petcocks and manifold plugs before you pull it home... But it takes a good 24-48 hours below freezing to do any damage whatsoever...

If that was my dilemma, I would feel better about it if it was winterized. The dealer should be happy to do a winterization if his customer is driving 14-18hrs for the deal. Besides, it doesnt take that long to winterize the boat especially if they know what they are doing.

I'm with JoJo on this one. I take an annual trip to TX in the fall. Last year it was cold on the way home below freezing for only 5 or 6 hours and it managed to crack my heater core. Probably has a lot to do with the air blowing on it while trailering. Pull the plugs and blow air through the heater that should do it.

(Message edited by spoonman on February 15, 2007)

I think the heater would be your biggest worry. The heater core seems to go before anything else. If it is a newer boat the plugs are usually very easy to pull on the engine.

I wouldn't try 2o hours in -8 degree temps. Pulling the boat wind chill on the hull will transfer to the engine and you will have a busted block before you get home.

i remember someone recording temps of a boat in falling temps as it got cold during the night. they took readings from outside the doghouse and several places inside. had a nice graph that showed the engine box staying somewhat insulated for 6 hours. after that, they were the same.

It would make me crazy to have a new boat and not be sure if it would be ok. you can't put a drop light in it. And I agree with Jojo. If you're picking it up that far away, they better take care of it.

if you are buying the boat from them, they should throw it in for free

Drain the water, Better to be safe than sorry.

have them winterize it so you don't worry

Nick is right about the heater core. Ive busted them before. Better blow out the heater core from the supply and return hose connected to the engine.

Thaks for the info guys....unfortunately the boat is a private sale, but a little $$ up front will save me in the lonfg run it'll be well worth the 300 probably for piece of mind. I remeber reading those articles and also reading a bunch of stuff on that, but my concern was addressed here due to the wind chill with the air while towing...so sounds like it's a no brainer..... will post some pics of the new ride when I pick it up of course

Thanks

Good choice, your tow vehicle could break down too, then you'd be really SOL.

That would be one hell of a trip then......I think the .45 would come out and things would magically catch fire

Can you stop anywhere on the drive, launch the boat and take it for a 15 minute spin? Adding that heat energy to the engine compartment will pro-long your cold weather sustainability. Might give you some peace of mind and make that long drive go by quicker.

Mikeski had done some night-time temperature data logging on his boat. He showed that there was approximately a 2 hour delay between the outside temp and the temp inside the engine compartment. If I recall correctly he showed that 24 hours in teen degree weather was sustainable. You may want to do a search for that thread.

A couple of concerns: While you are pulling the boat, the air intakes are pulling air in the front of the boat and circulating that air around the engine compartment. Because of this circulation, your sustainability times will significantly decrease. At the very least I'd plug the air intakes and use moving blankets to cover the engine and block other areas where air can circulate in and out.

If you had said you're pulling the boat through 20 degree weather I'd think you're fine. But if you're reaching down to 8 degrees, I'd be concerned. 20° is 12° below freezing. 8° is 24° below freezing. In terms of heat dissipation, I don't think this is a linear function. Meaning that that it's easy to expect the engine would cool off in half the time at 8° than at 20°. However, I'd expect that cooling to occur faster, more like 1/3 or 1/4 the time.

Be concerned about your water pump, they're pretty thin material and are complete exposed in the engine compartment. Whereas the engine block has a lot of mass to help maintain it's temperature 'momentum,' so to speak, the pump does not have that mass.

If I were you, I'd call some of the dealers, explain to them your dilemma and ask them to just drop the water out of it -- not a full-on winterization. An experienced tech can do that in 15 minutes. So you're probably looking at one hour of service at $80.

Alternativly, there are a lot of people on Wakeworld who know how to do this kind of thing. I'm sure if you posed the question you could find someone who would be willing to help you out. Especially considering that you're traveling back through a lot of different cities.

Winterize it. I would probably be fine during the trip but what happens if your electric goes out in your heated garage. Draining the water is quick and easy.

$300 to winterize the boat???? WOW, they aren't even being kind enough to use lube when they bend you over. Around here it's between $80-$100 which includes circulating anti-freeze through it. That price also includes the summerization come spring time.

(Message edited by Tanner on February 18, 2007)

$300 for 5 or 6 blue plastic screws???? I'm with Tanner. ... I'd do it myself (Oh wait, I do).

No joke up here in Chi town winterization with shower and triple ballast is 300ish plus at the top 3 dealers with oil change. It's plain robbery if you ask me. . Good thing I have a place very south of the City that does it for 125. It's just easier and less time consuming on my part. Also with 2 little ones I can't devote the time to do it. I"d probably end up leaving out a screw or forgetting where I left off.. I do the summerizing myself to keep it looking sharp. That's something the kids can take part in as well. It's rediculous.....Havin a monopolized dealer area with only one dealer per mfg will do that to you. Like I said good thing my cottage is in a small town south.

(Message edited by hookedonboardin on February 18, 2007)