Salt Series Wakeboats

This isnt another "can I put my boat in salt" thread...

Yes, you can with the proper trailer and maintenance. That being said:

Seems like every manufacturer is coming out with a version of boat that is set up for salt. To state my position up front - a boats a boat, it depends on how you take care of it. I used my VLX in salt occassionaly and never had any issues with it. This thread is about resale ability and the new salt series boats. I did okay when I sold mine (not a "salt series"), but the "salt" question came up EVERY phone call.

The overwhelming majority (meaning not all...)of ski/wake boat owners will just not consider buying a boat thats been in salt.

I am looking for some opinions on whether the new lines of salt boats will change the resale market. I am coming to the conclusion that the salt water series wake boats have just not been around long enough for anyone to give an opinion regarding resale ability. Will the fact that its a salt water series boat change the mindset of a potential buyer that has the "if its been in salt, I aint buying it" mindset...? Thats what I am curious about. Every Manufacturer's Sales Rep says what I want to hear (rightfully so, they have a product to push) -but I want to hear from other boat owners.
I would like to think that now that its a salt water series boat - the stigma goes away. Or worse - now that its branded "salt water series", am I stuck with it forever or have to devalue it to sell it if I have too?

Adding closed cooling and a few more stainless fittings, tineed wire doesnt' make a boat "salt" worthy IMO.

I personally won't buy a boat that's been in salt. Don't care how meticulous you keep it. But for the right price, I would.....see where I'm going.

A inboard ski boat is not designed to be in the ocean. It's like adding a big motor in a honda civic and saying it's an indy car.

Just think of the seaspray....your boat will be covered in salt by the end of the day.

I have been/owned ski boats that I've taken in brackish/salt water....if your in true salt, it's very hard to get all the salt off ( inside) especially when the water evaporates in minutes due to the heat.

I hear what your saying and respect your opinion, but how are the closed cooling and other features that have now made it a salt series boat make it any different than lets just say a Donzi or Formula boat that is specifically set up for salt and rarely used in fresh? These boats have inboard engines, massive electronics and closed cooling - pretty much the same features and they do well in a salt environment. I dont think its the same as the civic analogy simply because there are other manufacturers that make salt specific boats around the same size.

i have a boat on brackish water, and X-15 SS. I wouldnt even think about taking into the ocean becasue of the length, but i feel the SS system does what is it is suppose to do. Have had a few overheating probs but all is well now. If your on salt get as saltwater series boat IMO. Not much more expensive and will last longer if taken care of properly

I think Salt Series will do a lot to alleviate some of the salt panic that you're experiencing. However, a boat used heavily in 100% salt is going to show a lot more rust and corrosion than a freshwater boat. resale will suffer in that case.

Pry depends more on how the boats do in the next few yrs than anything.

Donzi/Formula are built off off shore racing hulls/boats, they've been designing boats for off shore use since I was in diapers.

... and Ford came out a few years before Toyota. The information and technology is there now because of manufacturers like Donzi / Formula that broke original ground. The durability of the salt series boats should not be any different than the durability of these high priced examples. It seems the fear is the effects of the salt - not how the boat stands up to a high seas environment. If the fear is only the salt, then it would seem that the innovations that are being copied on the salt wakeboats should be able to last and alleviate at least some of the paranoia.

you willin to bet 90k on your theroy

Pack up and just move to houston, problem solved.

A inboard ski boat is not designed to be in the ocean. It's like adding a big motor in a honda civic and saying it's an indy car.

Putting your boat in the Sacramento Delta, Long Beach Stadium or Wilochet Bay by Gig Harbor is hardly a good comparison to this.

I don't know Florida very well (where the OP is located), but I imagine that there are a TON of good saltwater ares to ride along the Transatlantic waterway..... that are salty, yes, but you don't beat your boat there any worse than a busy Saturday on most suburban lakes.

Understanding that the salt can wreck your boat is half the battle. Cleaning it all the time, flushing things out, replacing parts as needed, etc. is just part of owning a boat & using it in salt water. A lot of that has to be done if you even LIVE near saltwater, much less put the boat in it.

A buddy of mine just ordered a VTX and plans on using it in Puget Sound. Closed cooling, zincs on the trailer, painted & galvanized traler, all stainless hardware, etc. Time will tell how it works out. But both of us have had boats out there numerous times without any problems. His last boat was 12 yrs old & did just fine.

I agree with you Bill, but I get tired of things and want new every once in a while. I dont want to be stuck in a boat because of a paranoia about salt. I had almost 800 hrs on mine with no salt damage. Trailer was shot, but that was because it came with a painted trailer and I never got around to a galvanized.
I guess it does boil down to a theory - like Adam says. I am considering some seriously expensive boats and hoping that the fact that they are built to with stand the salt better will help me when I decide to sell. It looks like I would be solid attempting to sell it in the coastal market, but that really minimizes my possibilities....
Adam - Id have the same problem in Houston because I love to scuba dive as well. Lake Houston's visibility reminded me of chocolate milk...so I would have to get offshore once in a while to dive - I guess oil rigs are the only dives you have in Houston though huh?

Ted, you make a good point, "buy a saltwater series and it's labeled for life".

Maybe the Ocala resale key is to mention saltwater series only used in freshwater. It would open up the coastal resale market.

No one has had any experience with resale of a salt series wakeboat? Has anyone had to take a devalued price for a boat that was manufactured as a salt series boat?

A salt series boat looks better at the time of resale and I would say if it looks better it will bring more money and peace of mind to the buyer. MC SS models are more than just closed cooling, they have stainless shocks under all the seats and hatches which normally rust on other boats. They have hydro steering , no cable to rust, sealed wiring harness, the closed cooling in MCs does not allow saltwater to enter the manifolds where most closed cooled boats have saltwater running through them. Sacrificial anodes on all under water gear that is grounded properly not just stuck on the boat like some other mfgs do. The motor mounts are composite as well.
There are plenty of great riding areas in Fl that are not rough water at all, miles and miles of intercoastal waterways to enjoy.
Just buy one Ted and let us know how it goes.

I am demoeing the CSX (again) August 10th in Inverness with Bay Watersports, he also has an X35 that I can demo at his shop when I go to the Tampa boat show the first weekend in September. I think the CSX is more versatile for me (diving and wakeboarding) but is way overpriced for a center consule boat of its size - Hydra Sports, Pro Line, Robolo and many others all offer the same size boat for half the price of the CSX. That being said it seems like I would definatly be stuck with the CSX. The X35 on the other hand I think I could sell when I needed to for the price.

The CSX has an awesome wake and will hold its value over any Proline or Hydro Sports. You need to buy what makes you happy and worry about resale second.

I'm curious about the CSX. It looked to me that it may be a "nose stuffer" in bigger waves.

I rode in a CSX in very choppy water, the larger one 26 ft i think, was amazing, 40 mph over huge waves and wakes, barely even noticed it. Really a cool boat if that what your looking for. Overpriced IMO

Ted, when you demo the CSX again take a bunch dive tanks with you, and gear up on the boat in wavy conditions as if you were going to dive. I thought the CSX layout was a little too cramped for diving when I saw it at the boat show. If I was spending that amount of money on a center console, I would get a contender, and have confidence it could handle the 3-5' waves that you will occasionally see outside the reef or when you come here to dive with me. The CSX is a bay boat. A really, really fancy way over priced bay boat with a killer wake.

That being said, if I were to ever buy a saltwater boat smaller than a 40'+ sportfisher, it would be outboard powered all the way. Two engines, so if one dies you can still get home. In addition, the maintenance on them when you get back to shore is super easy. If you get in shallow water you can trim them up, and if you hit a shoal at low tide going slowly you aren't looking at a $3000+ bill.

I will say though, that the commercial dive boat I am going on tomorrow is an inboard, and we do gear up on the engine cover, but it is substantially bigger than a CSX. It is a bit porky though so it wouldn't be good for wakeboarding.

With respect to your question, the saltwater series branding would improve your resale in coastal areas, but hurt your resale in the rest of the country. I don't think I would even consider buying an inboard ski boat that has been in salt, even if I was going to use it in salt.

Yeah, thats the thing. The CSX has such a massive price tag for that type of boat. You can get into a Contender or Spectre (and have a larger sea worthy boat) for the price of the CSX.

Tim - when you selling your Malibu and going salt? Your new habit has to have you looking at some new boats...?

Ted, you could go on 6-7 two tank commercial dive boat trips every month, for the price of dry dock storage (or a slip) here and never have to wash the boat!

If you want to go more independent, then you can just hop on friends' boats.

If I sold the 'bu it would make an OK down payment on a nice saltwater boat, but that would be about it.

Basically, I'd have to have a LOT of extra money to consider getting a functional saltwater boat.

I can still have strong opinions about what I would get if I had the money, based on experience with what works here....

You make a valid point, but cost of ownership is always high regardless of the boat.
I really just despise the commercial dive boats - I know it sounds messed up, but I dont like the one size fits all attitude they have and the loss of freedom when it comes to where I want to go on the reef. I have been diving the Keys so long that I guess I just have a different view point. When I dive other areas in the Carribean - Im okay with the commercial dive boats, but they still annoy me. "If you see the Captain of the boat putting on a life jacket - I suggest you do the same..." stupid. Sorry for the little rant...
I am am really involved in two sports and it just seems like I need to get back into a boat that can handle both. I have my mind set on March, so I have time to find the right one for those sports. I just spent time at an Orlando theme park Sunday and it really made me want my boat back!!!

I suppose I should have said "I" instead of "you" in that last message. Plus I suppose I am kind of spoiled, that we have some sweet laid back 6-pack boats that we generally go on, and when there are 4-6 in our group, we pretty much get to go where we want.

Another option is getting something like a SN2001 for wakeboarding and then an ocean boat for the ocean. Keep the wakeboard boat up there and the ocean boat in the keys. You could save mucho dinero on trailering fuel, and have purpose built boats for either sport.

Or just use yours at Lake Weir - someone needs to run it once in a while and who better than me??, and continue to use my Dads dive boat in the Keys.

Haha that is an excellent plan. Although I keep thinking to myself that I should really just sell it.

Ill send you my address. You can overnite the keys.

Salt is harsh on boats, no question about it. However…one thing to keep in mind is that every time a responsible wakeboat owner pulls his boat out of the salt, he washes it thoroughly, inside and out. In addition, waxing the hull, polishing stainless, and vinyl cleaning and conditioning are done on a normal basis. All of this work is done in the spirit or preventative maintenance, and the salt water wakeboat guys know they can't afford to skip a wash or a scheduled maintenance task. The end result is a really well maintained boat (the fear of not maintaining the boat and having it rot is what lights the fire under most owner's butts). The ski/wakeboats in Hawaii are all in really good condition considering age, engine hours (2,000 hrs. plus on some) and 100% salt use.

In fact, some of the most jacked-up wakeboats I have been on were boats that were used 100% in fresh water! My theory on that is simple. The owners of these boats rarely washed & waxed their boats, nor did they keep the Vinyl conditioned (they thought because it was used in fresh water they didn’t need to), so they ended up look really used and abused. I don't know any salt boatowners that would skip a total wash or not be attentive to the wax and vinyl conditioning.

I think the whole devaluation of wakeboats used in salt thing is based on harsh assumptions, and really doesn't have that much merit. I think a boat should be valued according to its condition, not according to what type of water it has been used in.

IMHO, if you live by salt water and you can afford to buy a salt series boat, you can’t go wrong. My next boat, if I buy a new boat, will be a salt series wakeboat. However, a non-salt water series boat can still hold up perfectly well if maintained properly. My 2005 211 still looks great and runs excellent. I have had some minor problems in the past, but all boats have problems of one kind or another. Besides, most of the problems I have had were either due to stupidity on my part, or manufacturer defects, rather than salt-generated problems.

Wow man - well put and I agree with you 100%! My Malibu was immaculate when I sold it and yes I would attribute that to an elevated sense of care and responsibility. The better something is taken care of - the less headaches.
I am pretty heart set on the X35 SS right now.

Kahuna, what kind of cleaning products, waxes, etc do you use?

In mine I used Salt Away in my powerwash for everything - not just the engine flush. I followed up with 303 after the wash - it kept everything looking brand new.

Here's my product list:

Wash - Salt Away (inside & out, engine manifold flush, etc.). Entire boat gets 303 Aerospace Protectant sprayed sparingly over all surfaces before we towel dry, that way the 303 is constantly being replenished after washing. Before I put my boat cover on, I leave the boat totally opened-up (all cushions, seats, and compartments are propped open) for at least 24 hrs. to get all the moisture out of the boat. After everything is dry, I put the cover on.

Vinyl Cleaner - Magic Eraser for normal routine cleaning followed-up with 303 Aerospace Protectant.

Vinyl Deep Clean & Reconditioning (Once a year) - I use Island Girl "Sea Glow" & follow-up with "SilkenSeal". This stuff is amazing, the Sea Glow is totally a trip, it makes your whites and colors glow bright due to luminescence. Check them out at http://www.islandgirlproducts.com/island3.html

Hull Polishing (as needed) - 3M products, product used is based on aggressiveness required for polishing.

Hull Waxing - Zaino Brothers Products (they rock!)

General Lubrication & Corrosion Prevention - Entire engine, trans, and V-Drive is coated with Cortec Bullfrog "Rust Blocker", followed up with regular WD-40 coatings and "Corrosion Block" coatings in high sensitivity areas. Also, I use LPS 1 (greaseless) coatings on exterior hinges, or other places where it wouldn't be prudent to have a "greasy" type of lubricant. All gas shocks, hinges, electrical connections, and other corrosion prone parts get treated as needed to keep them clean and free of corrosion.


Sounds like a lot of work, but it really isn't that bad. Our routine wash-down after every day riding, including washing down all the wakeboard gear, is about 25 minutes.

Oh yea, another good thing about washing the boat inside and out all the time is that you see problems really early, as opposed to having a problem going unnoticed for a long time, which typically will lead to a bigger problem.

So, do you actually spray out the inside of your boat with a hose and salt away cup, or are you using like a damp towel or something?

And do you find that the WD-40 takes off the bullfrog, or do they work well together?

I flood the inside with water, then salt away, then rinse one more time with water. It's the only way to get all the salt out of the inside of the boat. This is why I leave the boat open for at least 24 hrs. To dry out.

The bullfrog rust blocker is pretty bomb proof, the wd-40 doesn't take it off, nor does corrosion block or Lps 1. I'm still on my original basecoat of rust blocker that I applied in 2005.

Thanks for the info.. but can I just say that you're making me feel very very guilty I do use the bullfrog, the salt-away, and the 303 stuff but your routine sounds exhausting. I think I'll just pay a detailer.

(Message edited by Monkey on August 07, 2008)

No worries, glad to share. It is a bit of a pain, but it's really not that bad. The key is getting a core group of guys to ride with and to clean with. My crew is good, we all have our tasks at the end of the day, and we power it out really quick. 25 minutes, 2-3 Heinekens, and were heading home happy as clams at high tide!

In Hawaii, salt is just a part of everyday life. Everything you own is susceptible to salt and corrosion damage in Hawaii, so we are kinda already programmed to deal with the situation, cause we have been dealing with it since we were little kids. But, the trade-off is we can ride in boardshorts 365 days a year, and most of the time it's butter water all day long.

But, the trade-off is we can ride in boardshorts 365 days a year, and most of the time it's butter water all day long.
O Man you really know how to hurt a guy living in IL and it’s water is frozen 3 to 4 months a year and cold for another 2 - 3 more after that.
Ted,
That X35 would be a nice boat for what you’re trying to do with it. Sure would be nice to go out to the reefs with that. The only thing that worries me on these boats is all that vinyl. Salt has got to take is toll on it. However if you get it and we go diving together I would be happy to help out in the clean up. }

It always seems like more work when its written down. I have to agree that onec a routine is established - it all goes pretty quick.
Hey Paul - been a while. I just got back from the Keys today. I have to truly demo one of those X35s on a day like I had Saturday. We left Key Largo around 1 pm with 1' seas. By the time I got to the Duane wreck we were at 2' seas - not a big deal. When I came back up after the dive the ocean was really starting to roll.The ride back had me in 3' - 4' seas - again, not a big deal in our cuddy. It calmed back down once I got inside the reef, but it got me thinking. Im thinking the front end would have been buried in the rollers in an X boat. Maybe not, as it is a big boat - gotta test it out I guess..
Anyway, come on down Paul. Im either diving or wakeboarding any given weekend. I think that vinyl has come a long way and with proper care it should last. Look at the new Edgewater Boats -those things are plush and full of cushy vinyl and built for the ocean..

Ted, that is what I have been saying. Gotta have a boat designed for big waves because out there the weather can turn with no warning.

A few years ago in marathon we went fishing for yellowtail snapper on a drift boat. 1-2' chop when we went out, but all of a sudden a storm came in and it was 6' in no time. We were on a big boat (40'?) and rather than head in the captain waited it out because of the lack of visibility and the big waves.

I heard the current was ripping at the Duane on saturday. How was the dive?

The Duane was amazing Friday, you see the wreck frrom the surface - very cool. Saturday I only got part way down the line before I realized my sister was not behind me. I had to resurface and found that she was having trouble getting to the ball. The current was terrible and we bailed and went to Molasses instead - Molasses was nice though - saw a few moray and a couple sharks cruised with us for a while.

Do you have a line that goes from the tag line to the mooring ball?

Lindsays' folks said one of the other customers on the dive boat got panicky trying to get to the ball and aborted his dive.

Hey Paul - I meant Everglades Boats - not Edgewater. Man the Everglades are PLUSH.

Yes we have 20'of line and a ball that runs off the back of the boat on every dive and a line that runs from the front to the back on wreck dives. It can be nerve wracking on a rough day kicking along side a boat thats bucking in the waves. Its loud and scary if your not used to it - my sister obviously wasn't. Once you clear the boat you can rest at the ball before you descend.

I have thought about this quite a bit. I ride 100% in salt water.

Here is what I think:

You need to compare apples with apples.
If you ride in Salt and you buy a Salt Water Series, your Salt Water Series will have a higher resale value than if you had a non-Salt Water Series.

IE - If I was buying from someone who rode in Salt, I would pay more if they were selling me the Salt Water Series than a non Salt Water Series (assuming the Salt Water Series held up well and was more than a marketing gimmic).

If I rode in fresh water, I would probably stay away from Salt Water Series - because there is no need for it new or used.

I don't know how much better the Salt Water Series boats really are. Time will tell. If they are really that much better, the resale value should be great when you are selling to people who live on Salt Water. People living on Fresh Water won't be interested.

IMO a good salt water boat has stainless everything, zincs, beefed up electrical, but most importantly stays DRY. Even if they beef up the engine and have an awesome closed cooling system - consistant salt water in the bildge takes a toll over time (starter rusts, alternator rusts, belt attachments rust, everything rusts).

So far - many of the "Salt Water Series" boats don't address the water in the bildge issue.

Until they address that, the boats will still corrode.

Dave, Very Well Said!

I agree about the marketing gimmick part of this "Salt Water Series" boat topic, and it really could turn out to be just a gimmick. I don' know enough about the differences to say if it's a gimmick or not, because the websites don' t really elaborate on what the modifications are for a "Salt" boat vs. a "Fresh" boat.

Here's what I think it should have:

Composite Motor/Tran/V-Drive Mounts (Stainless w/ Nylon/Polyethelene/Etc.) - The mounts always take a beating, so non-rusting types is an absolute must.

Hydraulic Steering – Get rid of that steering cable!

Electrical System – I don’t know about the others, but Correct Craft already uses a sealed-type electrical harness on their normal boats at the engine, but the system is “open” in a lot of other places. All splices should be heat-tube sealed (the kind that has the glue that melts when you shrink the tube) to ensure there is no bare metal exposed at connection points or fittings.

Stainless Everything, no galvanized, not Tin-Coated, etc. And High Quality Stainless too, not the cheap stuff.

Totally closed cooling system for motor, manifolds, trans, and v-drive. The “closed cooling” system on most boats only protect the internals of the engine, but still run salt through the manifolds, the V-Drive, etc.

Snap-Out Carpet Everywhere, and Foam where Carpet can’t be Snap-Type. The carpet soaks-up salt like a sponge, and plays a huge roll in contributing to corrosion.

Built-In Fogging system that you can hook your hose up to and use to flush all critical engine, Trans, V-Drive, Shaft, Rudder, and other components. (I am building one now using micro-spray irrigation emitters and poly tubing). This way you can fresh-water rinse all exposed metal components inside the bilge just by hooking the hose to a quick-connect fitting and pulling the trigger for 30 seconds.

Proper Drainage for every part of the boat, there can’t be any low spots that collect water.

Factory applied anti-corrosive products. All the metal should have some industrial/military grade anti-corrosive product applied to it at the factory, that way no nook or cranny is missed.

I’m sure I missed a few things, but these are the items that stand out to me. If a Salt-Series boat doesn’t have the majority of the above, than it’s just a regular freshwater Ski Boat with a sticker on it saying “Salt-Series”.

The both of you bring up very good things to look for. I find it a little odd that the manufacturers that have salt series boats do not present more of a break down of what exactly makes up the "salt series" boat. I would think a link or a page on their web site that shows what type of mods are made would be expected - yet none of them have it. There are plenty of pictures of the boats - but no real breakdown anywhere showing what modifications are made that make up the salt price tag. We as consumers are then at the mercy of sales reps - and I just think a manufacturer can do better with informing their customers on upgrades like these. Some of us like to do research before hand.
I plan to summarize all of these items into a check sheet when I head to the Tampa Boat Show in September.

I have probably delt with, or are currently dealing with EVERY possible problem you could have with saltwater over the past 7 years. 20% of it was BAD BAD BAD work by my dealer and missing a few "things" within the first season that I am still chasing. The other 80% is water in the bilge. If the water can't be drained, then it will corrode, no other way to say it.

My statement about saltwater series boats...

Every Saltwater series boat should come with a boat lift!

KG- You gave me a great idea.

I'm going to put a solution of liquid-based anti-corrosive soap with Vapor-Phase Corrosion Inhibitors (VPCI) in the bilge after each outing. This way, the vapors will keep the corrosion at bay while the boat is sitting in between uses. If there is moisture trapped in the bilge, at least the VPCIs will help fight-off the negative affects.

Kahuna, do you use the bullfront emitter cups?
http://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Emitter-Cup-P24C22.aspx

My '05 SV211 came with the dripless packing, a galvanized and painted/epoxied trailer, closed cooling, etc. I bought it used, and they told me that they got it decked out for salt, but didn't have the heart to use it in salt. They had El Capitan booked for private weekdays (freshwater) for the entire year (which costs a fortune), so I believed them. The boat was/is in perfect shape.

When I was boat shopping, I got pretty excited about the Sangers using Merc engines because of this new "Seacore" technology. Unfortunately, they didn't do it for inboard engines at the time. I think they still don't. It would really sell if they offered it as an option for inboards. Check out the videos and info:
http://northamerica.mercurymarine.com/engines/inboards/sterndrives/seacore.php

Here's a good question for everyone...
How many of you actually keep your boat in the water all season long? The BETTER question is really how many of you actually keep your boat in saltwater all season long?

Electrolysis has actually been the biggest issue I have dealt with. While freshwater does see it, electrolysis is more prevalent in saltwater, especially for areas that have continually changing bottom topology's.
You haven't seen anything till you have seen electrolysis eat a 1-1/8" SS drive shaft to the point of needing to be replaced.

It sounds like either your boat or something neighboring your boat is leaking current into the water.

Can you break down the details surrounding electrolysis?

Here is a link.

http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/galvanic/default.asp

Stray Current Corrosion

Q: If placing two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte creates low-voltage DC current that can wreck unprotected metals in a matter of months, what would happen if all of the current from a boat’s 12-volt batteries were to somehow come in contact with metal?

A: The metal fittings in contact with the bilge water would be in a lot of trouble — and are likely to be wrecked in a few days or even hours.

While less common than galvanic corrosion, stray current corrosion is typically swift and deadly. There have been boats that were sunk when someone carelessly left a battery cable dangling in bilge water. All of the underwater fittings (bronze) were pink and nearly crumbling in only a few days. In other cases, crimped wires in the bilge were “leaking” 12-volt current into the bilge water.

Stray current is one reason DC wires should always be well above bilge water levels. (AC wires must also be kept well away from the bilge! Although they don’t cause corrosion, AC wires in
water pose a dangerous shock hazard.)

If a DC wire must be left in the bilge (e.g., mast wires left short at the base), they should be enclosed in a weatherproof junction box to seal out moisture, or individually sealed in heat shrink tubing and secured as high as possible. Liquid electrical tape or corrosion inhibitor sprays can also help to seal terminals from dampness that
may infiltrate enclosed junction boxes.

I keep my boat in the salt 100% of the summer.
I take it out every 2 weeks to wash and flush.
I have a few zincs on my wedge, but that it is.
I have to replace the zincs every year, but that is all.
It sounds like you might have some current issues where you are at.
You might see if you can put some zincs on your shaft.... that sounded weird.