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Join Date: Oct 2005
02-24-2009, 7:54 PM
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Lets see the installs done by the average joe. NO shop installs wanted in this thread. Amp racks,boxes etc. All makes and models.
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Join Date: Nov 2008
02-25-2009, 7:41 AM
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Only one I have at the moment. Batteries are under the speaker box. All of that is for sale now.
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Join Date: Sep 2006
02-25-2009, 8:26 AM
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see that looks like its suppose to be there! I like those kinds of installs the best!
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Join Date: Dec 2008
02-25-2009, 8:50 AM
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Here's a link to my current project. I work at a shop, but I'm doing all the work myself except for building the boxes. http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/messages/3183/669792.html?1235575379
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Join Date: Oct 2005
02-25-2009, 8:06 PM
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Looks good guys! I know there are more people out there that did their own installs.
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Join Date: Mar 2005
02-25-2009, 8:07 PM
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Jeff, nice looking install.How much did it cost to get your Centurion re-upholstered?
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Join Date: Dec 2006
02-25-2009, 8:16 PM
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Just getting the pieces together on mine...should be done end of March I just got the Motor for my sub...41 lbs before basket/top half is added.
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02-25-2009, 8:22 PM
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i have a quick question pertaining to systems. When installing an amp what do you use for a ground?? My batteries are located by my engine in the back and im wanting to find a good ground under the helm. Its a 97 182 crownline if you need to know.. thanks guys
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Join Date: Apr 2002
02-25-2009, 8:43 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
02-25-2009, 9:55 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2009
02-26-2009, 3:10 AM
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about 2 grand.....the guy originally wanted $2500. Cash helps....especially the way things are witht the economy.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
02-26-2009, 9:17 AM
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Question. When you guys mount MDF against the inside wall of the boats hull how are you securing the board down.
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Join Date: Dec 2008
02-26-2009, 9:45 AM
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Most folks use some kinda glue, 40-40 etc.
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Join Date: Jan 2008
02-26-2009, 9:50 AM
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My Supra has vertical glassed-in panels that you can screw into (with shallow screws). You can see the panel and the screws in the last image I posted. I've heard most strip away the carpet and use liquid nails. If I did my amp-rack over again, I would have used plastic instead of what I used... which was resin-coated MDF, as I've had a couple screws come loose in the MDF.
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Join Date: Apr 2002
02-26-2009, 10:28 AM
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Another thing to consider.... when your installing your sub under the driver's side dash.... or anywhere for that matter. I bought my boat with the sub box already built & installed. It's MDF coated with resin. I lost the heater core last spring, which is mounted up under the dash & behind the sub box. So when I replaced the heater core, I had to pull the sub out to get to it. And I noticed that the MDF has wicked up some water over the last year or two & is starting to expand..... even though it's been painted with resin when the previous owner had it built. I doubt it will last more than a year or two more before I have to rebuild it. I think I'd make a point to built any sub up off the floor of the boat.... just like you do your amp installs off the floor. Just in case the boat gets water on the floor it won't get to the amp.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
02-26-2009, 1:59 PM
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Bill’s point is dead on. While MEDEX or MDO would be the best choice (solvent-based construction versus water-based) for making a sub box, you can use MDF. If you use a resin or bedliner coating, use marine grade carpet for its rubber barrier and elevate it off the sole with ABS, HDPE or StarBoard mounting pads and you can have a longterm and reliable box. Once the box is swollen the seams have already failed and the woofer is in jeopardy of fatiguing. Dave, other than a sub box, MDF should never be used in a boat. Use resin-coated birch covered in a carpet that matches the boats or use a polyboard if ABS or another option is not accessible to you. For adhering an amp panel to the hull, skin the interior and use a 3M DuraMax fiberglass body repair or plastic bonding agent to mount a thick picture frame that is contoured to the hull’s compound angles. Then mount the amp board to the frame. David E.M.
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Join Date: Aug 2006
02-26-2009, 4:22 PM
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Nu Bu, you ace hole now we all have to slide the screen over to read this shizz!
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Join Date: Apr 2006
02-26-2009, 4:24 PM
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I know I jacked that all up, oops. There you go you whiner . (Message edited by 05mobiuslsv on February 26, 2009)
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Join Date: Dec 2006
02-26-2009, 4:26 PM
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Really nice install Cal
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Join Date: May 2004
02-27-2009, 5:40 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
02-27-2009, 5:42 AM
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that's nice Adam!!! which pdx are you using for your inboats? pretty happy with it?
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02-27-2009, 6:55 AM
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Nice work guys! They all look great!
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Join Date: May 2004
02-27-2009, 9:53 AM
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pdx 4.150 on the towr ( threesome-wetsounds) pdx 4.100 on the inboat, 600.1 on a kicker 12 ( L7) mmats 1500.1 on another kicker 12 ( L7). My alternator and my electrical system love the pdx amps...I've seen a huge diff in the current draw since switchign to the pdx amps. Sound quality is good, but not to many people can hear SQ diff in a boat. I paid the $$$ for the pdx technology, not the SQ. The reviews on the pdx are good and teh SQ is supposedly very good. I was just as happy with the SQ of my $120 audiobahn amp
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Join Date: May 2004
02-27-2009, 9:56 AM
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The cooling fans i've me peace of mind. I just left them in from teh last system in the baot..when I really needed them. The pdx amps get warm, dont; elt anyoen tell you diff, I'd even say hot, but I never haev any overheating issues. The mmats on the other hand runs very cool...almost like it's not even on. I can run it for hours 3-8) horus and it feels "warm" to the touch. Way "cooler" than the pdx.
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Join Date: Dec 2006
02-27-2009, 10:03 AM
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Nice install Adam and I can verify Mmats not getting hot.
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Join Date: Dec 2005
02-27-2009, 10:12 AM
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thanks adam. that's a nice looking setup. i thought about maybe a 4.150 for my inboats, but i think i'll probably go with the syn4 for continuity and also because the connections are on the side. that looks really sharp though.
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Join Date: May 2004
02-27-2009, 10:17 AM
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^^^ If the wetsounds amps were out when I re-did this boat, I would have gone with them.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
02-27-2009, 10:17 AM
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Nubu glad to see I'm not the only one running the rca volume controls. Makes instant control so nice. I will get pics of mine up once I finally get all my amps in and get them installed.
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Join Date: Jun 2004
02-27-2009, 10:21 AM
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My first install:
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Join Date: Aug 2006
02-27-2009, 11:02 AM
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Some real nice installs guys! Nu Bu thanks...
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Join Date: Apr 2006
02-27-2009, 11:04 AM
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spOtts and you went big.... Spared no expense on that one...
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Join Date: Jan 2008
02-27-2009, 11:08 AM
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Ewing, thanks for the compliment. SpOtts, impressive... lots of nice DIY jobs!
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Join Date: Mar 2005
02-27-2009, 12:11 PM
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SpOtts, dress those bottom wires! Cant have that mucking the rest of that beautiful install!
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Join Date: Aug 2007
02-27-2009, 6:29 PM
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Adam is that 2 or 4 gauge goin to and from the distribution block.(My dad thinks it looks like 4, I think it looks like 2)
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Join Date: Dec 2005
02-27-2009, 7:26 PM
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that right there is purdy!
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Join Date: Aug 2006
02-27-2009, 8:01 PM
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Nice work John looks great I bet that system is gonna sound phenomenal. The amps look really good, now why cant they do that with the speaker enclosures?
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Join Date: Nov 2008
02-28-2009, 3:46 AM
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Thanks Hate! Those amps are tiny for what they're capable of. There's a dryer vent hose that goes down the left side of that amp rack that channels water down into the gunwhales, so I lost that space there.
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Join Date: Feb 2008
03-02-2009, 11:11 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
03-02-2009, 5:05 PM
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Looks awesome!!!
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Join Date: Sep 2008
03-02-2009, 5:40 PM
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Jason B, how did you do the amp mounts? Plexi? If so what are the details on the install of them. I am looking to do the same things actually.
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Join Date: Feb 2008
03-02-2009, 6:38 PM
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David, Use acrylic unless you are worried about abrasion. Acrylic is much easier to finish nicely but supposedly not as scratch resistant. I traced the outline of the amp and cut it out, then cut out the middle leaving about 3-4 inches all the way around. I measured the inside opening and planned it out in clusters of 3 LEDs (because that is the brightest/most efficient way with the resistors I was using) soldered them all together and ran thin speaker wire as my power line. I installed a fuse box for all of the lights under my dash then put in green lit rocker switches on my dash to control everything seperate--in boat speakers, tower speakers, cooler, amp plates, hatch lights, transom lights, perko switches have lit-backing plates also. I'll try to find some pics of the plates before installing them. It was fun and I get crap loads of compliments...I'm not sure I'd commit that much time to doing it again though. Using strips would have made it much, much quicker.
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Join Date: Jan 2008
03-02-2009, 6:38 PM
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cooler is bad ass.. how did you do that
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Join Date: Feb 2008
03-02-2009, 7:00 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
03-02-2009, 9:55 PM
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Very nice work!!
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Join Date: Feb 2008
03-03-2009, 7:09 AM
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William, I just epoxied about 250 LEDs around the inside lip pointing into the cooler..and then soldered for hours.
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Join Date: Oct 2005
03-03-2009, 3:53 PM
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here are some pics of mine. This is the day we bought the boat. After I installed all of the new stuff. cleaned things up a bit.
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Join Date: Oct 2005
03-03-2009, 3:54 PM
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here are some pics of mine. This is the day we bought the boat. After I installed all of the new stuff. cleaned things up a bit.
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Join Date: May 2007
03-03-2009, 4:56 PM
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Nice work Aaron.! All you guys are making me jealous.
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Join Date: Aug 2007
03-03-2009, 5:04 PM
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Almost done with my amp rack. Can't wait to get it in and fire up my new Wetsounds! I'm trying to get by on a budget. Most of the money went to tower speakers. Next winter the amps and the in-boats will get an overhaul.
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Join Date: Nov 2008
03-03-2009, 5:32 PM
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That Soundstream amp is a classic.... I sold those at a shop in 1997-2000.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
03-03-2009, 7:05 PM
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^^^ I was gonna say that's old school. I know an installer that told me he used to run those at 1/4 ohm... Those were built like a tank.
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Join Date: Nov 2008
03-03-2009, 7:28 PM
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Yup... When the Reference 1000's came out we went through those like crazy. They had some sort of problem and would blow the resistors out or something. I had a Reference 405 when they first came out with 4 SPL10's playing at 1 ohm mono on the sub channel. Drove an 18 hour trip to Florida with it playing the whole time and no problems. I've still got a Van Gogh 800.5 that I've been debating on selling. Can't find those anywhere to see what they're worth.
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Join Date: Jun 2004
03-03-2009, 8:15 PM
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oh damn a old Vangogh, how about the tarantula..I still loved the old school Orions that were almost three feet long! I still remember the first time I saw a Chrome PPI amp and wanted nothing more then to own them.
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Join Date: Nov 2008
03-03-2009, 8:49 PM
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Those were the days. We're a dealer for the new Orion amps now, but never had tried any. The PPI art series amps were pretty sick. Only problem I found with those is that when they were installed in lowered vehicles, the power/ground connections would back out of the connectors. I fried an amp that way in a lowered Mazda.
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Join Date: Aug 2007
03-04-2009, 4:19 AM
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Mine is a Rubicon 502. From what I have read, they are a little more durable, but heck, it has lasted this long it must be good to go. I got both it and the PG amp with my boat when I bought it. I got a second 502 off eBay. One will run my 485 and the other one will power a pair of Pro60's. I hope that is enough power for them. I want to upgrade to something a little easier on amperage. If the Pioneer works out I plan to get three more of them and sale off the other amps. It is not a marine amp, but neither is anything else on the boat. Plus, the price is right on them. (Message edited by Hunter660 on March 04, 2009)
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