Trailer Brake Question

(hooterz) · (hooterz) **Join Date: Jul 2006** 07-16-2008, 8:32 AM

I have a 2003 MasterCraft tandem axel trailer, I would think if you jack up one side of the trailer both wheels should spin free with a little drag. On mine, the right side front tire has a lot of drag compared to the right side rear & on the left side it's the other way around. Do you think the calipers are just hanging up. What do you think????

(flux) · (flux) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 07-16-2008, 9:10 AM

If it's an 03, you might want to check it over pretty good. I had some 02 calipers that were entirely seized up, ended up replacing calipers, pads, and rotors.

(hooterz) · (hooterz) **Join Date: Jul 2006** 07-17-2008, 9:28 AM

Where did you get your parts and what was the cost of it?

(phat_in_cincy) · (phat_in_cincy) **Join Date: May 2003** 07-17-2008, 9:38 AM

Contact your MC dealer. I think there was a rash of problems that the brake mfg. supported fixing.

(flux) · (flux) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 07-17-2008, 10:01 AM

My stuff is all UFP, which is pretty standard stuff and used by many trailer manufacturers, but I will suppose that MC is different.

Anyone with UFP stuff, I highly recommend the DHM trailer guys for buying parts. They are terrific, great service and will talk to you about stuff and give you tips as well. They are like the skidim of trailers

I would call your MC dealer like Paul suggested. I replaced both rotors, calipers, pads, bearings, and bearing buddies. I also put in a new actuator as well. Not cheap, I think like 600 for everything, but it was shot.

My boots had rotted away and the piston had popped out, forcing the pad into the rotor. The whole setup was trashed. My actuator was a mess too.

The worst was that we noticed it when we were 200+ miles from home with alot of hills and highway in between. So we crossed our fingers and rolled out of there. After fixing everything, I am pretty sure I could have pulled stuff apart on the road, but at the time I was clueless.

I carry a full compliment of tools with me on the road now.

(nyelland) · (nyelland) **Join Date: Oct 2005** 07-17-2008, 9:31 PM

If you have a quick breakline disconect, test the wheels with the line disconected. Also, make sure that the actuator is all the way in the forward position. (sometimes not if you backed your trailer to park it). Check to make sure that there is not kinks, or crimps in the break line (if a crip - the preasure can be strong enogh to apply the breaks but the back preasure is to weak to release).

I second what Flux said above about DHM. I too had a break issues. They got so hot that both tires o n the break axels were completly distroyed. I too replaced everything. The guys at DHM (Stephen)will talk to you and help you trouble shoot. they were way more helpful than the guys at UFP.

I too was completly clueless on how to replace everything (including the wheel bearings) - but rest easy - it is super simple.

Surge breaks in greneral are not a very good breaking system. Everytime you go doen a long grade in a low gear - the trailer breaks are on but the truck breaks are not.

(flux) · (flux) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 07-18-2008, 10:22 AM

I'd love to have an electric over hydraulic system, but I compensated OK by having an F250 Diesel. Biggest thing for me is keeping the rig slowed on a downhill, and the F250 tow/haul mode does this pretty nicely.

Surge brakes are OK, but you need to keep them and your bearing maintained well. There should be a way to adjust the gain on em, but i guess that could be trouble in some way too.