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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-05-2008, 11:32 AM
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So I'm going to be installing a tower on my 87 Supra. My BIG question is do I need more support on the fiberglass where the mounts will be? If so will a peice of plywood or steel be good enough or do I need to put more glass on it. I have no clue how to lay more glass either!
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Join Date: Feb 2004
03-05-2008, 11:45 AM
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On my boat I used some cedar decking as like a backing plate and used that marine glue to make sure it stayed. Then made sure the bolts were long enough to reach through it all and its been great for 3 years now, no spider cracks or anything. I also have an old inboard, 1986 Dixie...also a monster tower. Best thing I did for the boat. Good luck.
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Join Date: Feb 2004
03-05-2008, 11:47 AM
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Sorry...also the boards I added were like a foot long...spread out the load a little...
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Join Date: Jul 2007
03-05-2008, 11:49 AM
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Dennis, 1st of all your boat is sweet I love the colors . . . . What tower are you installing ? Did it come with backing plates ?
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Join Date: Sep 2007
03-05-2008, 11:55 AM
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Use whatever type of backing you can get. I have a ND tower and I was given a 5x5 3/32" backing plate for it. I would just go to home depot or something like that and get a piece of diamond plate and cut and drill that for a backing plate. I would just make it as large as you can easily fit under there. When you drill the hole and see that there is a lot of glass on the deck, you will worry less.
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-05-2008, 12:06 PM
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Nick, Thanks I'm loven the boat too!! Just got in July last year. The tower I'm getting is a Typhoon, and I guess I'm not sure if it has any sort of backing plate. So there is no need to lay more glass on the back just some sort of metal or wood, as big as possible will do the trick? I wonder if the bolts that come with the tower will be long enough? (Message edited by DenWbaseball on March 05, 2008)
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Join Date: Jul 2007
03-05-2008, 12:13 PM
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The bolts that came with my DIYWake tower were long enough to double up the backing plates that came with the tower
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Join Date: Mar 2006
03-05-2008, 12:25 PM
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I used some wood that I "glued" in with fiberglass patties that I made. Was my first encounter with glass and wasn't that hard.
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Join Date: Jan 2007
03-05-2008, 12:37 PM
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Marine plywood, cedar, a plastic composite all good. Bigger is better. Be sure to use some large sturdy washers to spread the load across your backing.
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Join Date: Aug 2007
03-05-2008, 12:48 PM
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I fiberglassed in some 3/4" plywood about 4" X 8" on each mounting point. Then used huge 1/4" steel washers. The main reason for my overkill is the fact that my whole tower was built out of 2" chromoly steel by an offroad fabricator. My tower, box, boards, etc weigh in at 380 lbs. Not exactly the lightest out there...
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Join Date: Apr 2007
03-05-2008, 12:50 PM
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Holy Crap T-Bag did you use a crane to mount it?
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Join Date: Oct 2005
03-05-2008, 12:59 PM
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No ballast needed in T-bags boat! He has a multipurpose tower.
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Join Date: Aug 2007
03-05-2008, 1:34 PM
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Crane... yeah kinda. It was a winch hoist. The cost difference to go with aluminum didnt make sense to me. Especially considering we WANT more weight. Definitely dont have to worry about ever bending or cracking the tower, it also doubles as a roll bar. Hopefully that much weight on the upper half the boat doesnt create any issues. 1 season strong and no issues
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Join Date: Apr 2002
03-05-2008, 2:15 PM
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I installed an Ichor tower in my 205 years ago. It worked great till one day we were tied up to another boat without the right bumpers between us & the tower foot nailed the other guy's boat. Took a nice bite out of his & cracked the glass on mine under the tower foot. So two things I'd consider on any new tower install. First of all, don't install the tower feet on the sides of the boat. Install them on the top whenever possible. This will keep it further away from other boats or docks when tied up. Second, older boats were never intended to have these things on them, so the glass is not built up for it. Bonding a backing plate of any kind is NUMBER 1 for strengthening it. Cedar or some soft wood that will conform to the glass shape is good, combined with a 2nd backing plate of aluminum is even better. Big washers too. And just for kicks, a top plate might even be a good idea, especially on the rear legs where the forces are pushing down. Making a top plate of carbon fiber or billet would help spread those downward forces out, and still look pretty cool.
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Join Date: Sep 2007
03-08-2008, 7:43 PM
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I put an xtp tower on last year. Took my boat to xtp to install in Knoxville, Ky. Tower was mounted with 4"X6" 3/8" thick plates....both front mount areas cracked and had to fix gelcoat($600.00). I would recommend larger backing plates bonded to fiberglass with large washers to help absorb the shock and spread energy. Putting on 6" x10" 5/8" thick. Hope it works.
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Join Date: Mar 2008
03-09-2008, 11:07 AM
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just drill lots of holes all the way through and hopefully it will sink!
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Join Date: Mar 2008
03-09-2008, 1:53 PM
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Hey Dennis, Make sure you put the drill in reverse with a good bit to drill your holes. Also lay masking tape down before you drill, it will help reduce splintering. Check behind the fiberglass for wires and make sure the back side is accessible for a big backer plate. Also check where it lays down in the boat when lowered. Make sure your front window will still open with the legs installed. Just my two cents.
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Join Date: Mar 2008
03-09-2008, 2:11 PM
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You should just build your own like this. It looks cooler!
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Join Date: Apr 2005
03-11-2008, 7:20 PM
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On our towers we recommend a 8" long 2 x 4 if your fiberglass in the mounting areas are less than 3/8" Thanks, Ken Land Bullet Lines www.bulletlines.com
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