Where is the Choke?

I've got an 88 Ski Centurion with a Ford Indmar 351 with a Holley carb. I am having problems starting the boat...takes awhile to fire her up. Also, idling way too fast (1000-1100 rpm). I've been reading threads from other sites and people are talking about the choke possibly being stuck open. Now, I am new to boating. I grew up riding street bikes where there is a choke lever you pull out when cold starting. Where is the choke or how do you activate the choke on a boat?
Thanks in advance.

Its gonna be built into the carb. Probably just an electric one, take off your air cleaner and if there's a plate covering 1/2 of the 4 holes you can see if you look down from top into the engine that plate is your choke. If its flat and you can see down it then its off, if its at an angle covering 2 of the 4 holes then the choke is on. Not sure how these work on boats, but on cars you turn the ign. on hit the gas once and starty it up, hit the gas again after 30 sec or so and it goes off

I just took off the spark arrestor and see what you are talking about. Right now, boat is in neutral, engine off, plate is covering the two barrels towards the front of the boat. I can move it to see the barrels. When I pump the throttle I can see gas squirting into the barrels towards the front of the boat. No gas squirting in the barrels towards the rear of the boat. So the choke is automatic? I don't need to turn it on or off?

This is what my electronic choke looks like (PCM 351W). http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RN0067-1

JP,

It is most likely an electric choke, similar to my Holley 4 bbl on my Comp. With these boats, they have mechanical fuel systems so one pump of the throttle should be enough to help with the choke.

The electric choke uses an internal relay that allows the right percentage of choke when voltage is applied . It sits on the side of the carb, and should be in a round black 'container', jsut like what Ryan posted. These are adjustable, if you look on the side there is a + and - sign, and this is for the amount of choke to be applied at full cold start. Adjust it until you get a good quick start up.

Also, ignition plays a big role in start up, if the baot is not timed right, it will be a pig to start. And as for your 'no gas the the rear barrels', those 2 barrels are secondaries, and these carbs are called vacuum secondary carbs, basically meaning those barrels arent used until large load is applied, so a simple pump of the throttle will not squirt fuel directly into those barrels. As long as you are seeing fuel in your primaries, thats good, it means your accelerator pump is working. But you will probably have to adjut the carb.

(Message edited by bigkitch on April 30, 2008)

Graham,
If it's having a hard time starting, do I adjust the choke up or down?

as for hard starting, its a Ford. Thats what they do. Like, turn it over for 5 secs, pumping throttle 2-3 times with no fire. Wait a second, then turn it over and it fires. Now if you just turned the boat off and you go to fire and it doesn't fire right up, then you could have an issue.


You say you're new to boating... Before you start changing things like choke, timing and idle settings, let's figure out what the boats doing thats not normal.

Its idling a bit high. was that with engine warm or cold?

Nacho,
After being out in the lake twice I have several issues.
1. Hard to start when engine is cold.
2. Engine idle speed way too high (1000-1100rpms).
3. Even when engine is hot it is hard to restart. I crank it for 5-7 seconds...nothing. I need to pull the neutral pin out, pump throttle 3-4 times while cranking to fire her up.
But once she starts she fine (except for the high idle). Runs strong.

Ok. JP it sounds like timing is of the issue. This is identical to my Comp, and I found the timing to be out by quite a bit. Stock on these motors is 10-12 degrees, typical Ford small block setting. So if you can get the timing checked by someone, try that first as a simple check. A few degrees can make a big difference. As well, assuming that thing is still mechanical fuel pump, could be a bit of blockage.

Ok, Engine idling high is a combination of again, timing, as well as the idle air mixture screw on the side of the carb. To me, it sounds like the timing is out, and you need the idle air mixture screw set accordingly, like we were talking about in your other thread. If you dont know what you are doing, then get a friend who does, or take it to the marina and tell them to check both of those.

With a mechanical fuel system, it should be 1-2 pumps, crank and fire. When warm, you shouldnt even here the thing crank. Almost instant fire up, if its setup properly.

Graham,
Where else can I get timing checked besides marina?

Any friends who are mechanics? Jsut need a timing light and your Fake-a-Lake.

hmm...car mechanics yes but not sure if they have a timing light. i guess i need to make a few phone calls. thanks.

I wouldn't bank on the marina having one. Most auto parts store will loan you whatever you need for deposit. get your friends to help.

Graham, since we're talking timing, you got any tricks for getting a distributor installed on a SBF?

sounds like youre accelerator pump is bad, or a check ball is stuck somewhere inside.Have you tried adjusting the idle air mixture screws to see if that makes a difference in the idle speed at all?

trey, i will try to adjust air mixture screws. As long as I adjust both sides by the same amount I'm ok...right?

nacho,

are you talkin about putting an aftermarket on a boat? and what sort of truicks are you looking for.

my boat came with a billet msd and I took it off right away, proper marine distributor should have a small mesh vent in the front of it.

Putting it back on after a few upgrades and i heard it can be beyatch. i'm sure it won't be a big deal.