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Old     (yosquire)      Join Date: Jun 2005       03-29-2006, 7:40 PM Reply   
Artie,

In that diagram, You would add together the load of your pumps, and it's probably best to make sure that load doesn't exceed 80%-90% of the switch's rated value.

Example:
Pump A: 3 Amps
Pump B: 5 Amps
(8 Amp load total)

If it's a 10 Amp or more switch, you're fine. If your switch is too small, and you have to use that switch (a dash switch or something.) Consider using a relay. you can e-mail me if you want to go that route.

Old     (yosquire)      Join Date: Jun 2005       03-29-2006, 7:49 PM Reply   
Also, both ground and 12+ will not go through your switch.. Take a look at this diagram
Upload
Old     (yosquire)      Join Date: Jun 2005       03-29-2006, 9:40 PM Reply   
^^^^ Disregard the above diagram, it's wrong.. Artie's diagram is correct.. I was thinking of oneway pumps instead of two-way (bi-directional) pumps that Artie has in his boat.
Old     (yosquire)      Join Date: Jun 2005       04-01-2006, 10:37 AM Reply   
Artie,

This post is in response to your question about how to wire this with a relay. My first suggestion would be to check the rating of the dash switch. (Probably 20amps) Then check the rating on the pumps, if they are under 20 amps, then don't do anything because this circuit will be kind of complicated, with lots of connections -- said differently, lots of places for it to wiggle apart and stop working.

The drawing below assumes a few things. First, it assumes that terminals 1 and 2 are a switch that has 3 different states. the first state, is Positive to term 1 and negative to term 2. The second state, Neg on Term 1 and Positive on Term 2. Third state, nothing on either term (off state.) It also assumes that you'll use SPDT (single pole, double throw) relays - explained later. You can do this circuit with 1 SPDT and 1 DPDT - This maybe advantageous, as you'd have two less connectors and splices.

Parts List:
3 - SPDT Relays $.99: See link at bottom
2 - 12v Diodes (200milliamp or greater) : Radioshack
x - Slip connectors.
x - wire

Diagram:
Upload

Knowledge:
diodes allow current to pass through in one direction. For ease of understanding, imagine this diagram allows power to pass from either terminal 1 or 2, upto the relay. When Terminal 2 is positive and terminal 1 is negative, power passes through the diode on term 2 up into the circuit, but not back to terminal 1. You've probably heard of Light Emitting Diodes. Same thing, just these don't emit light.

Explanation:
Terminal 2 is positive, and Terminal 1 is Negative:
Power flows upto relay A, energizing the coil and turning on the relay. Power is then connected to relay B and C. Power flows to your pumps (indicated by the M symbol)

Terminal 1 is Positive and Terminal 2 is Negative:
Same as the first explanation, just this time power flows to the coil of Relay B and C which energizes those relays. They switch their position and reverse polarity on the pumps. Causing reverse pumping.

Relays:http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=MCMProducts&product%5Fi d=26%2D534&info=specs
The reason I suggest 3 SPDT relays instead of a SPDT and a DPDT is cost. These are $.99.

I'm quite sure this is the simplest way to accomplish this. If someone has an easier way to do it, be my guest!


(Message edited by yosquire on April 01, 2006)
Old     (mrm2083)      Join Date: Nov 2005       04-02-2006, 7:05 AM Reply   
Hey I just bought an x2 and will be getting it in about 2 weeks. I want to start planning out how im gonna add extra ballast. Anyone know how much weight is in the front compared to the back on the stock system. Also, when adding balast to the x2 what's the best ration front to back. Anyone figure out yet how they are going to plumb in the front sack?
Old     (projectely4)      Join Date: Apr 2003       04-02-2006, 7:33 AM Reply   
when adding more weight to the new x-2 you are going to want to keep a 40/60 or 50/50 ratio front to back on the boat.

also the rear hard tanks fill in about half the time of the center. so i would guess the rear tanks each weigh about 150 and the center about 300.

i haven't plumbed in the bow integrated sac yet because i haven't got it yet but i am just going to hook it up so it fills at the same time as the center hard tank.
Old     (ord27)      Join Date: Oct 2005       04-02-2006, 9:05 AM Reply   
what does anyone here think about the quick connect setup-up from fly high?
thanks
Old     (yosquire)      Join Date: Jun 2005       04-02-2006, 7:39 PM Reply   
I thought the X2 has about a 900-1000lbs ballast system. I would expect the rears tanks to be 350s and the center to be a 300.
Old     (liquidmx)      Join Date: Jun 2005       04-02-2006, 8:02 PM Reply   
I am currenly installing the pro-x sacks in my boat right now Cliff, but I have heard great things from people. When I bought mine I didnt buy the fittings needed since it would have been another $100.00 for just the fittings! The way I am hoping to get around this(meaning I have yet to water test) is to use 3/4 in NPT fittings.

The one thing I noticed is that the caps that screw into the bag have a heavy taper but the the female side(bag fitting itself) has little to no taper.(probably fly high's attempt at forcing the sale of their fittings?). To try and fix this I bought two rolls of plumbers tape to create an agressive taper on the actual male portion of the threaded 90 degree elbows I am using.
Old     (projectely4)      Join Date: Apr 2003       04-02-2006, 8:31 PM Reply   
craig the old x-2 had about 800-900 lbs but the new X-2 only has 600-650 lbs
Old     (yosquire)      Join Date: Jun 2005       04-02-2006, 9:08 PM Reply   
Really? that's not very much at all. Must be one of the value-added reasons to buy the x-star.

(Message edited by yosquire on April 02, 2006)
Old     (ord27)      Join Date: Oct 2005       04-03-2006, 6:26 PM Reply   
thanks for the reply Matt
I am going to route my new rival system...then decide on the high fly fittings
I have an XTi...so I need the rear bags to be moveable
thanks
Cliff

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