ballast system install MC 205V

Quite a few people helped me out, and I stole ideas from as many people as I could. A couple of people wanted to know about parts used, sources, etc...., so here goes:

Pro X Series Sacs – V-Drive Set & Tube Sac buywake.com

6 Rule 1100 Aerator Pumps livebaitlarry.com

Qwik-Lok 1-1/8” thru hull & Qwik-Lok QD Sockets flow-rite.com

1-1/2” Groco Thru-hull Scoop Strainer go2marine.com

Contura Black Switch ON/OFF/ON
go2marine.com

(3) PVC ¾” swing check valves plumbingsupply.com
(1) PVC 1” swing check valve plumbingsupply.com
(3) PVC Reducing Tee 1” X ¾” (vent /drain line) plumbingsupply.com
Brass 90 Elbow 1 ½ plumbingsupply.com
Brass Nipple 1 ½ plumbingsupply.com
Bronze 1 ½ Ball Valve local plumbing supply
42 ft of 1” ID Spa Flex Tubing local building material
RV Cable-Actuated 1 ½ Gate Valve w/ 6’ cable local RV store
¾ inch bilge hose local building material

Nylon fittings, clamps, PVC parts, bushings Home Depot, Lowes, TSC
Electrical – wire, fuses, connectors Wal-Mart
Here is the parts list for you visual types:

I had to play around with the placement of the manifold and how to route the tubing. I used spa flex tubing which is stout stuff. I have 2 words for you if you go with this tubing --- "boiling water". Not hot water, but boiling water to soften the ends of the tube and get it over the fittings, especially the 1 1/8" outlet on the 6 pumps, and the QD sockets for the Empty thru-hulls.

Here is the installed tubing for the fill lines. I routed the fill lines for the v-drive sacs thru the back part of the engine divider (hole saw), and used cable ties to keep the tubing off of the exhaust chambers. I ended up not using check valves on the 2 fill lines that go up and thru the back panels, but I can add them later. I did put a check valve on the fill line going to the locker sac; that line just goes under the floor and over the gas tank.

Heat gun is essential for spa hose, but boiling water is a neat work-around.

Keep the info. coming!

(Message edited by P-hat in Cincy on April 27, 2007)

I used a manual RV Gate Valve so I could shut off the system without having to reach under the engine. From inside the boat, right next to the back seat on the port side, you just pull that handle out like the hood release on your truck. Pull to open, push back in to close.

The back seat is out in the pic. When its in, the handle will hardly be noticeable, but still easy to reach. I could not work it so I could do it all from the drivers seat. 6 feet is the max on the cable.

I was able to use the factory accessory switch panel to mount the switches. The accessory switches were not being used, and I will never add a shower or heater.

I control 6 pumps with 3 switches. they have red LED indicators. No labels, but it's intuitive -- Left = port, Middle = locker, Right = Starboard; FILL (UP), EMPTY (down)

Paul, trust me, I tried everything before I discovered the boiling water; blowdryer, every kind of lubricant; really really hot water, etc.

I had used braided reinforced tubing before and I did not want to deal with crimping. this stuff won't crimp.

I went with the bigger thru-hulls above the waterline so as not to restrict the 1-inch tubing. we took it out on a water test, and the system fills between 5 and 6 minutes. I didn't get the empty times but the flow rate is good.

No pics of the wake as it was a windy day and we were rushed for time, but we could see the promise (plus we forgot).

As you can see, I still have the back seat and engine hatch off my boat. I should be getting all back together pretty soon.

Great job Rich!

Nice job and thanks for sharing, WW is a valuable asset to anyone planning a ballast install.

1" Spa tubing and Boiling water, I can only imagine what a PITA that must have been. The pumps output and flow-rite fitting are all 1-1/8". Flow-rite has some really nice 1-1/8" hose that is similar to spa tubing (won't kink) but it is a whole lot more flexible and black in color, and doesn't need boiling water to fit on 1-1/8" fittings.

rich, did you price out the ballast switches from MC? I'm assuming they were a whole lot more than the ones you got?

Do you remember if you got the double throw double pole or double throw single pole? I don't understand that stuff.

Rich }-- I swapped out a couple lines with spa hose the other day and since I don't have a heat gun, tried the boiling water. Just as advertised, dipping the end of the hose in the water made it extremely pliable. Great tip!

This is great. I've got the same boat and plan on doing something like this in the fall. I really like the location of the RV gate valve.

Mark, I used a lot of 1" barb fittings for check valves, vent lines, etc. I don't know if the 1-1/8" tubing would present its own set of challenges; it may not be tight enough for the 1" barb.

Erik, I used Single Pole Double Throw; there are 4 pins on the back of the switch. I did not price the MC switches. The only difference in the look would be that the MC switches have a little curve to them. Not a big deal to me. The wiring was easier than I thought; I used the positive and negative leads already behind the accessory panel. I ran the POS wire off of each pump to the back of the panel to the appropriate pin on the back of each switch. All the NEG wires coming off the pumps terminate together, and make a run the NEG battery terminal.

I also discovered that the Accessory Panel has its own 20A Fuse in a Fuse Holder next to the POS Battery terminal. I shorted out the fuse and wasted an hour under the dash trying to track it down.

Rich,
If you care, the factory MC switch covers snap right onto those contura switches. They are available as a seperate item from the dealer, no need to buy the whole switch.