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Old     (pucktowake)      Join Date: May 2007       01-08-2010, 7:08 PM Reply   
I want to start waxing my own board. I think I got the how down. You just drip it on let it dry scrape it off. I want to know if I should get like a tune kit or just buy the wax and Other stuff separate. Also what kind of wax should I get. I ride in that midwest ice.
Old     (eargasm)      Join Date: May 2007       01-08-2010, 9:18 PM Reply   
Buy a kit, Dakine kit $80.00. YouTube: hotwaxing snowboards....theres a little more to it than just dripping wax on your board.
Old     (pucktowake)      Join Date: May 2007       01-08-2010, 9:41 PM Reply   
I know there is more to it. I have seen the videos. Do I really need an $80.00 kit? I was going to get one the at was like $40. Wax,scraper,base cleaner, edge tuner.
Old     (nsolis220)      Join Date: May 2007       01-09-2010, 8:54 AM Reply   
the 40 dollar kit is just right.you can piece it together if you know whats in it.There is a lot of pieces in it.

buy a all temp wax if you go in different conditions. The wrong wax can almost ruin a day.

The hardest thing for me when waxing is the patience to iron over the wax slow enough to have it seep in and keep the temp low to not burn the base. I say its hard to do it slow because people just like to make the iron to hot so it goes fast.

after scrapping the buffing is magic, it opens the way up some and makes it smooth.

good luck John.

btw look for sierra snowbaords you tube on waxing they teach i pretty well.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       01-09-2010, 9:09 AM Reply   
I always heard don't use a base cleaner. It will ruin the bottom of your board. Just scrape off as much as your can then wax.

When I wax my boards I heat up the wax by pressing it to the iron and drip just a few drops. But as soon as the wax gets hot and starts to melt, take soft part of the wax bar and rub that into the board. I keep using that technic until the whole board is covered. Then run the iron slowly down the lenght of the board. Let the board cool, then scrape. Like Soli said buffing is key.
Old     (pucktowake)      Join Date: May 2007       01-09-2010, 9:35 AM Reply   
How about this one?
http://www.amazon.com/ONE-BALL-JAY-SNOWBOARD-WAXING/dp/B001TOQ1EA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1263058049&sr=8-11

Looks like it has wax, edge tuner, stone, a scraper, some p-tex sticks. Is there any thing else I need.
I was going to go to target and find a cheep iron.
Old     (jaegermaster)      Join Date: Sep 2002       01-09-2010, 9:50 AM Reply   
Here is my $.02

Buy the wax at your local shop. I pay $7-10 a package. I get 5-6 waxings per pack.
Buy a good file at Lowe's or HD. Should cost around $5. Also buy a wire brush to clean the file. $2-3.
Go to a plastics shop and have them cut you some 1/4" Plexiglas or acrylic 4"X12". Get 5-6 of them and that gives you20-24 scraper edges. Shouldn't cost that much.
Go to your local charity and get a used iron. I paid $2 for mine 5 years ago and it still works.
If you want to buff your board try old pantyhose. I think they work the best.

There you have it. I have been riding for over 15 years and have used this set up the whole time. If you are really hard on your edges, maybe get the edge tuner, but in my opinion you don't need it if you know how to use a file.

By the way, if your iron starts smoking, it's too hot.

I hope this helps.


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Old     (pucktowake)      Join Date: May 2007       01-11-2010, 4:48 AM Reply   
Some one said that the steam Irons do not work? Maybe this is not true. So you say make your own kit? As far as edges just true them up?
Old     (jaegermaster)      Join Date: Sep 2002       01-11-2010, 7:50 AM Reply   
Steam irons work fine if they are dry.

Yes, I just keep my edges true and free of nicks. I f you are really hard on your edges you might want to get an edge specific hone, or if you ride a lot of rails don't even worry about them. Most rail riders detune their edges anyway.
Old     (scrupulous)      Join Date: Jun 2006       01-11-2010, 10:43 AM Reply   
Look for an old Iron that doesn't have the steam holes. Bought mine for $3 at Goodwill.

Pick up an all conditions wax bar from a shop or online. These things are big, like 10" long. Last quite a bit longer than those little packages.

Get a scraper that is going to cover the width of your board.

Pick up a cork block for a buffer, and it helps to have a have a brush too.

A file is OK, but if you are tuning to a specific degree for park riding ect, get a tuning tool that will allow you to preset your angles. I always carry a gummy stone with me as well in case I need a quick detune.

For Hot Waxing, it works best to press the wax to the iron and let it drip onto the board. Be patient as you run the iron along the base. Make sure you let the board cool before you start scraping.

If you are going to go to the trouble to take care of your board, don't neglect it in the summer. A nice coat of summer wax is great. Plus, don't store it in a garage or attic, try to keep it in a somewhat "controlled" environment.

Good Luck
Old     (wakeboarder2687)      Join Date: Aug 2004       01-11-2010, 2:49 PM Reply   
Try a soft scotch brite pad for buffing.
Old     (pucktowake)      Join Date: May 2007       01-11-2010, 9:42 PM Reply   
Buffing is making groves from tail to tip right?
Old     (ziggen)      Join Date: Jul 2006       01-12-2010, 7:29 AM Reply   
It makes the bottom of the board smoother after scraping the wax off
Old     (jaegermaster)      Join Date: Sep 2002       01-12-2010, 7:34 AM Reply   
Buffing = less drag in the powder.

Brushing tip to tail = less drag in the slushy stuff.

Brushing will create small channels that will let the moisture in the wetter snow escape from under the board. I have boarded in the NW for over 15 years and brushing works well for the "Cascade Concrete".

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