wiring a 13w7?

I just purchased a 13w7 and the guy threw in an Audiobahn A18001DT for free. The specs for the amp are 600 x 1 at 4 Ohms Mono, 1200 x 1 at 2 Ohms Mono and
1800 x 1 at 1 Ohm Mono. According to the JL Audio website if I wire the sub in series it will make it 3 ohm’s and if wired parallel it will make it .75 ohms. First question I have is if this amp can power it properly? Secondly, using the amps specs should the sub be wired in series or parallel? I don’t know jack about ohms law just need a little help with figuring out how a 3 ohm or .75 ohm will compute to a 4,2,1 ohm amp.

You'd need to go 3 because .75 is to low for that amp or just about any amp for that matter.

if i go 3 would the amp put out enough power? It is my understanding that the amp will determine how many ohms based on the sub. If the sub is 3 ohms will the amp drop to 2 ohms or stay at 4 ohms?

It will not choose ohms, it will push power to the sub at the sub's ohm rating. It will run at 3 ohms, which is fine. It will make somewhere between 600 and 1200 watts. I don't know what the spec is on the sub. I'm guessing thats not enough. I would have gotten a a differnt rated sub. With the W3's (and im assuming the w7's), even Dual voice coil, there were dual 2 ohms, and dual 2 ohms.

The W7's come in single 3ohm or for the 13 in a dual 1.5 only. If you run it at 3 ohms it would be roughly 900 watts which is on the low side for that sub. If you wanted to make that thing crush you could get a second amp and run both voice coils at 1.5 off two separate amps. Of course you might blow it up that way...the 900 should push it fairly well.

Don't run it off 2 amps. You'll screw it up. Thats an even worse idea than running it in stereo mode of 2 channels of the same amp. you want each voice coil to get EXACTLY the same power.

Either run it wiht the amp you got, or sell that and get a better amp. Truthfully, these subs respond better to a little too much power than not enough

So you got a $500+dollar sub and you wanna push it with a flea market amp. IMO not a good idea.
W7-13 run's in 1.5 or 3 Ohm load. IMO thats a hard sub to power on the cheep.

^^^ I didn't wanna be the one to say it.

This is from JL's site:

Any competent amplifier optimized for 4-ohms or 2-ohms mono will drive a single 8W7, 10W7 or 12W7 without any problem. With the 13W7 and its dual 1.5 ohm coils, there is greater amplifier application flexibility. The speaker may be configured as a 0.75-ohm woofer (coils in parallel), a 3 ohm woofer (coils in series), or it can be driven by two amplifiers, each driving one 1.5 ohm voice coil).

Not saying I'd do it but it would be interesting.

(Message edited by hate&pain on April 15, 2009)

http://cgi.ebay.com/MMATS-AMPLIFIER-D3000-05-Class-D-Mono-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ270373533294QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCa r_Amplifiers?hash=item270373533294&_trksid=p3286.c 0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1234%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39% 3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

Don't power that sub with that amp. Get a good amp that can be run at 3 ohms. The 13 is power hungry, and at 3 ohms, amps don't always like that. That amp might work, but that speaker needs 1k + watts to pound, and the amp will probably go into protection because of it being run in 3 ohms.

I have the 13 and needed to have my ARC amp programmed to work with that speaker at 3 ohms.

I figured I would need a different amp, but the sucker was thrown in for free so I figured I ask.

get a 1000/1 JL amp

Get something better than the JL 1000

dam double post

(Message edited by jv210 on April 15, 2009)

^^^^any recommendations besides 1000/1

I'd say ARC Audio, but thats just me.

Yea a $1600 Dollar SE 2300 should do the trick.

This is what they look like

Ya those are it.

I had the JL 1000/1 and switched to the ARC SE 2300. Even with 0 gauge wire the JL kept going into protection mode.

Boston Acoustic GT28 would be good their 1 ohm stable and put out over 1250 at two ohms.

The JL 1000/1 V2 is a great amp. I don't know exactly when this year, but JL Audio is introducing the HD 1200/1 1200 watt Class D. Based on how impressive the HD 750/1 is, the HD 1200/1 should be incredible.

Maybe you could use the Audiobahn as a temp until the HD is here.

The Alpine PDX 1000 watt monoblock and the WetSounds SYN 1 would also be considerations.

David
Earmark Marine

Nevermind answered my own questions.

(Message edited by hate&pain on April 16, 2009)

what about US amps?

Ok I received the sub and amp yesterday but the ported box I ordered has not arrived. Just like a kid a Christmas I hooked up the amp and sub just to see what it would sound like. The sub sounded real sloppy at even very low volume. Almost like you would expect when it is maxed out, popping, clipping sound. I thought that maybe the amp settings were all wrong so I hooked it up to the old sub amp (Alpine MRP450) which I know is not enough power to push it but it sounded the same. Please tell me the box will make the difference. Or should the sub have sounded fine but without the expected bass. I know I'm an idiot but just couldn't help myself. Just had to hear it.

That is a quick way to kill a speaker... The box will keep the cone moving in a controlled manner... No box = popping sounds, sloppy base, and possible destruction of woofers.

hopefully you did not do any permanent damage.

"I know I'm an idiot"

You said it not me.

nu bu? Feel better about your self? Guys like you make this forum less enjoyable everyday.

you dont need no stinking box. boxes are over rated. just get an orion 2500 and lay that w7 on the floor. and rock!! haha

Brad it was a bonehead move seriously. If you wouldn't have said it I wouldn't have.

However posts like yours make the forum really fun.

(Message edited by 05mobiuslsv on April 19, 2009)