Winterizing ?'s

So we're thinking about doing our own winterization this year and are looking for any tips, ideas, thoughts on how to do everything. We were thinking running a ballast to the fake-a-lake full of anit-freeze, then figuring out a way to circulate everything so we can let it run for 10 min's or so

Just stabilize the fuel, run the boat for about 10 minutes on the fake a lake, Spray a fogging oil into the breather till the motor pukes, then drain all the water from the motor, ballast pumps, and lines. The problem with running antifreeze into ballast and engine is when you go to use it first time next year you either blow that antifreeze out into the lake or onto the ground either of which are bad

^^^Well I would never take the chance of not running anti freeze through my engine, ballast, heater, etc but I live in southern Wisco!!

I use Sierra antifreeze "Propylene glycol" which is friendly to the environment. They even put it in food. It acts as an anti corrosive and you don't have to worry that you got out that last bit of water. I drain the water and disconnect the hoses from the front of the block and poor Sierra into the hoses and ballast tanks. Don't use the pink stuff in the block as it does not provide enough freeze protection and don't use ethylene glycol antifreeze (most of what is out there). ethylene glycol is horrible for the environment and kills everything.

In addition to what gary said (minus the part about no anti-freeze) spray the engine down with an anti corrosive spray like "penzoil ZM corrosion protectant" so the block, engine mounts, and manifolds don't rust. Remove the raw water pump impeller for the winter and put in a new one next winter. I also change the oil/filter and transmission fluid so the boast is stored with fresh stuff. Change the fuel filter in the spring.

+1 for antifreeze... Wisco people know best

If you have an EFI engine it's not a good idea to fog through the breather,clogs injectors.

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/01/01_15.pdf

Nick, I thought I read in post from last year that you don't use antifreeze, that you just drain and fog your engine. I'm in Ohio and winterized my boat myself for the first time, and printed off some detailed instructions from Moomba's discussion board. In the instructions it said that you do not need to use anifreeze if you make sure you get all the water out. Last year was the first time for me and it took a little over an hour, and that included an oil change.

Piece of mind.
winter is long, and at -35* I don't like wondering if all the water is out.

You don't NEED it, but it takes all of 2 mins and costs like $5.
Don't do it, but I will be.

i'm in canada and have never used anti-freeze. i don't believe its an issue to 'get every last bit of water out'. leave your drain plugs out for storage. even if there is a pocket of water somewhere, theres plenty of room for expansion, and cracking something is a non-issue as far as i'm concerned. when i over-thought the antifreeze method, that when i got paranoid. what if the antifreeze doesn't mix with everything in the system? then you have a pocket that can freeze with no room for expansion.
in either case i have yet to see someone faced with a huge repair bill in the spring because they did, or didn't use anti-freeze. so call it a personal preference.
just don't forget any plugs!

K.....so, being a NOOB inboard owner, it seems like there's a lot more going on than with the old boat.....what is your process? What all steps - or where can I find them?

no need for anti-freeze. remove all the drain plugs, strainer, trans cooler line at the ramp and by the time you get home all the water will be out. leave the plugs out for the winter.

I only put anti-freeze in the heater lines - since I can't be certain to get ALL the water out.

Here's my winterization for the nice Chi Town winters.

1)Start the boat on the fake-a-lake and letit warm up to temperature
2)Change oil while its warm
3)Add fuel stabilizer
4)Fire it back up again and then fog the engine
5)Drain the block(for those with /petcocks ditch them and get brass plugs)
6) Drain ballast(I have an old school aerator sytem so don't use anti-freeze there either, drain the manifolds, unhook water pump line and blow though it. I was always told wherever there is a U shape it will hold water in the line so unhook it and dump it out. AND FOR ALL YOU OTHER MC OWNERS OUT THERE BLOW OUT YOU SPEEDO TUBES OR YOUR MDC WILL BE TOAST!
7)Remove impellar
8)remove all the spark plugs and lubricate the inside of the spark plug holes with the fogger/protectant
9)Take off your safety lanyard and turn the engine over w/o the spark plugs in to coat the cylinders and the pistons with the lubricant/protectant
10) spray the plugs, make sure to get the threads and re-insert them. I usuall wait til after I burn through the first tank of gas before I put new plugs in at the start of the season.
11) tape off your thru hulls and exhaust flaps so no little critters make a home
12) remove the battery and store it inside. I tend to give it a charge before I store it and then also hook it to a charger every now and again over the winter.

I put my knock sensor and all my plugs in a ziplock bag and zip tie them to the wheel. I have never used anti freeze but I don't have a heater so no need for me to. I just go by the Indmar manual...and they say no anti-freeze in neccessary. Has worked for me and my fam for over 30yrs. All thats left is to detail the inside and out. I make sure my vinyl is not in it's "locked in position" I turn the cushions and rearrange them so that the cushions aren't touching just in case moisture gets in there. I feel this will prevent mildew growth between where the vinyl touches if they were in their "locked in position"

I may have forgot something as its late, so if I did feel free to add it in there for me.

Perfect. Thanks Swat.

I run about 5 gallons of pink anti-freeze through the motor and heater. Then I blow out the heater and fully drain the block. Any residual is not water, but anti-freeze. This is cheap insurance at $15 for the anti-freeze and $400 for a heater and $4000 for a new long block...

I also put a couple of gallons of anti-freeze in each of the vent lines and then empty the tank. Likewise, any residual is anti-freeze and is much cheaper than a new pump.

Anti-seize on all threads. I use the copper formula.

Swatguy, why brass plugs vs the others, and where would you buy them?

I use the pink anti-freeze partly for the cold protection just in case I missed any water, but mostly to prevent corrosion.

Yeah don't forget the heater! I did last year and pop! I looked online for a new coil, could not find one so just took it to a radiator shop and got it fixed for 50 bucks.

Paul
The petcocks tend to get clocked up and may not allow the water to escape, this allowing you to think the block is actually empty. You can find the brass plugs at any dealer or autoparts store. If I could get at my boat I would take a picture for ya, but its 250mi away for winter storage