This is not a tutorial, if it were, I'd know what the h*ll I'm doing. This is more of a documentary.
I've decided to build a fiberglass sub enclosure. I had the idea, why not mold the enclosure around the underside of the dash? That way the sub is up and out of the way as much as possible. Finding information on fabricating fiberglass on the Internet is limited. So as I venture I thought I'd document the process. At the very least, you might find a good laugh as I end up with a $50 fiberglass rock. Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll work. I know I'll have some issues with fiberglass resonating funny with the sub. I plan to brace the heck out of the box - and probably some sound deadening material. I'm targeting around .75 to 1 cubic foot for this sealed enclosure. It's hard..if not impossible to estimate the volume.. I'm visually measuring 12" x 12" x 12" as I build.. We'll see..
I'm working with an 04 VLX. I've been thinking about this for weeks and this weekend marks the beginning of actual fabrication. - I'll let the pictures do the talking...
Here I'm trying to prove the concept that fiberglass will stick to the bottom of a surface. I used a cardboard box to simulate this. I'll be taping the dash off to protect it from resin.
I thought I might have troubles with the glass sticking, so I reverse glued some duct tape to the box as well. (ultimately didn't need this)
Fiberglass mat - Home Depot or Wal-Mart - Next I'll order it online. At first I didn't think this mat would work well, but it worked better than the cloth.
Fiberglass cloth. It was harder to get this to stick to the bottom of the surface.. So I didn't use this cloth for this application.
Both the mat and the cloth stuck to the bottom of the top of the box.
The glass pulled off the box after about 3 hours. Looks good. I found that a mixture of 70% short strand Bondo and 30% Resin worked best. The bondo thickens up the resin. The bondo gives it that ugly green color. I think regular automotive bondo would be easier to work with. The strands in the bondo make it hard to scoop it up and apply it over your head.
On to destroy my boat.
Here you see the foot rest (bottom left)
tower mounts (three bolts top right)
Battery cables (top, red)
Steering cable (center)
What I've done here is taken Hardware Cloth (small animal cage material) and bent it around to create channels for the cables to run through.
Next, I mask off everything. this way I can lay the fiberglass right on the masking tape and it won't soak through to the carpet (I hope)
I don't have a picture of it, but I've taped drop cloth down to cover all the flooring, drivers seat, side of the boat.. I'd recommend going excessive on drop cloth.. It only takes one drop of resin to screw up the carpet.
time to glass - It's difficult to see, I'm using a squeegee to spread the resin bondo mixture, then I apply fiberglass. and saturate it. I'm looking to simply get a structure at this stage.
I need a better camera. You can see the foot rest on the lower left of the screen. The fiberglass starts at the top of the foot rest and goes away from the drivers seat to the forward wall.. Then up.. On the right you can see where the steering cable ducts behind the glass.
Ok, What have I learned today.
1) use MDF instead of fiberglass
There's a lot of stress in working with fiberglass inside of a new boat. (though it's an 04, I bought it with 1 hour on it from a dealer in sept 05) Resin is messy. It gets every where. on your sleeves, then it tracks.. I'm still hoping the masking tape doesn't saturate through.
Though it doesn't look it, that is about 3.5 hours worth of work. I was moving pretty fast towards the end. The glassing process consumes serious amounts of bondo/resin. I made up about 5 or 6 batches, and every time I had to crawl out of the boat. I'd throw away my gloves each time, so I'd have clean hands to get out of the boat with. Almost dropped the resin once.. I'm not sure this is worth it... I should be done inside the boat. On Tuesday I'll see if this nasty mess comes out.
I found that laying the fiberglass in my hand, then saturating it with Bondo/Resin worked best. It also conserved Bondo/resin as I could squeegee it better.
Having to do it again, I'd remove the drivers seat. You need all the mobility you can get when you have dripping resin over your head.
The path forward looks like this: remove the molded structure, trim it down, brace it up, support a MDF rind to hold the sub, Fleece with resin cover, fiberglass fiberglass fiberglass (ugh), bondo and paint.
Now to go pick resin out of my hair.
and make a chiropractor appointment tomorrow.
(Message edited by yosquire on March 26, 2006)