Stinger Isolator or relay?

i want to get rid of my perko switch and replace it with an isolator, but what set up is best. i searched old threads but could not fin the answers i was looking for. what i did find were these two diff options.

stinger 216023 (160 amp 4 post isolator)
stinger sr200 (200 amp relay)

i am using three optima blue top batteries, two for stereo and one just for the boat

i included a link from stinger with a diagram of how the realys are set up, what are your thoughts?

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/sting_products/SR200%20multiple%20batt%20DIAGRAM.pdf

thanks in advance, all reply's will be helpful

Don't forget to link the grounds on all the batteries. I didn't and it caused more hedaches while installing than it should have. I just put in the sr200 and have no complaints now that it is working correctly. It was a pain in the ass at first. I only have two batteries, but I believe you shouldn't have to wire like that diagragm. Run two batteries in parllel as if they are one. Put the isolator in between those and the one so that when you are in the accessory position your stereo is only running off the two. This way you maintain a dedicated battery for you vital functions such as starting and ignition.

thanks for the reply, can you explain "link the grounds on all the batteries", just so i know exactly what you mean. thanks

Shawn, Why would You want to get rid of Your Perko ? It would be best to have The switch and the Isolator.

i have been doing some research and reading past threads and have come to the conclusion that an isolator is more effective for my situation. i am though, going to add a on/off switch that can cut all power if needed. i run about 5000 watts of stereo and i don't want to mess around with the perko any more. having to worry about switching from 1 to 2, or 2 to 1, or all, i would rather have it all done automaticly.

i also feel like my batteries are draining quick, so i kind of want to see if this will make a difference.

most of all, i just want some different ideas and get a feel for what people are using and how they like or dislike their set up

I mean run a battery cable to each negative pole on all the batteries creating a common ground. I didn't do that at first and it created problems.

Also do yourself a favor and charge all of your batteries before each trip. With a large system you will drain your batteries much faster than your alternator can charge. Starting fresh and an isolator to help keep up will keep you rocking a lot longer.

Another suggestion:
Leave the Perko switch as is, assuming you have it connected correctly and have the ground terminals of both batts connected together with a battery cable. Instead of an isolator, buy the $49.95 refurbished 50-amp West Marine Battery combiner from here:
http://www.yandina.com/Refurb.htm

You just connect three wires: one to common ground, one to Post1 of your Perko (batt1), and one to Post2 of your Perko (batt2).

Very simple. Always leave your Perko on position1 (batt1) . Here's what that gives you:
* You always start off only batt1
* it automatically combines the batts ONLY when your alternator is putting out a charge voltage of at least 13.3V (engine on)
* The batts are automatically disconnected when the engine is off (voltage below 13.3V)
* If your alternator dies while on the water, only batt1 will get drained. You can then switch your Perko to position2 (batt2) and run back to the dock.
* You still have a Perko to disconnect both batts (Off position) easily for maintenance and storage.

I have been using this for a while on my '98 SS with no problems. I like still having the Perko switch, and I like being protected from alternator failure.

You can read more about the West Marine 50-amp Battery Combiner here:
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=5461

Hope this helps.

Any thoughts on Perko and the Guest isolator. I have dual batts, and a Perko and recently bought the Guest isolator, but am not sure how to wire, or if it is a good idea. Any thoughts from the Electrical guru's?

Phil

Shawn, in your case, batt2 would actually be bank2 since you would have the two stereo batts wired together in parallel on position2 of the Perko switch.

(Message edited by flsurflover on June 02, 2004)

Shawn,

You asked for some opinions…Here are mine.

The best isolation system on the market is made by Hellroaring.

http://www.hellroaring.com

It has battery charge sensing, and priority charging to the “engine start” battery that the other systems do not have. When you run a really big stereo system, this becomes important. Your system is huge! If you really use it turned up, you are drawing over 350 amps for the stereo alone. That is more amps than most starters use to start our boats – for just a second of cranking. No wonder you batteries don’t seem to last long.

Do not expect an isolator to make a difference in the time you can run your stereo. The best you can hope for is an efficient isolator that sends as much from the alternator to the batteries as possible. Most likely an isolator will allow less power to go the batteries than a “Perko” switch. Excellent isolators like the Hellroaring only reduce the charging by a tiny amount. Inexpensive diode type isolators reduce charging current and voltage by much more.

If you really want to use your stereo for more time, cranked up, you need to have more power available. You could either use more batteries, or upgrade your charging system, or both. A guy I know has a deck boat with a real monster stereo system – well over 10,000 watts. He sits on a beach all day and cranks the thing. He powers it with TWENTY 6 volt golf cart batteries. He pulls his boat out in the evening, and puts it on an industrial charger all night, so it is fully charged for the next day. The stereo system is not connected to his “boat” electrical system at all.

My stereo system is about 2000 watts RMS. I run three Optima batteries – 2 deep cycle for the stereo, and 1 starting for the boat. My stock alternator was only 51 amps. Turned up, my stereo alone draws over 150 amps – measured with a digital current meter. Because I boat where I cannot “plug in” my boat at night, I needed a charging system that could keep up with the draw. I installed two 105 amp alternators on my boat. With the boat running, the alternators keep the batteries fully charged, and with the Hellroaring isolator, I can run the stereo batteries completely flat (engine not running), and still have a fully charged battery to start the engine. No switches, nothing to think about, it just works.

I hope this helps.

Geoff