Mastercraft X-10 very hard to steer, grease where?

(pav) · (pav) **Join Date: Nov 2001** 09-21-2005, 3:06 PM

I have an 01 X-10, got a good bit of water in the bottom of the boat, pumped it out, next time I went out the boat had become very hard to steer. Found 2 grease fittings, one at the rudder, and another one with a piston & rod type deal just under the aft part of the engine that runs to the steering wheel. Greased both fittings, and nothing. It is still very very, did I say very? I mean very hard to steer, like a work out.

Anyone else experience this or know of any other fittings that need grease to loosen & help steering? I checked under the steering wheel and there is nothing to grease there, plus this happened right after the bottom of the boat got filled with water. So it seems like something got wet and washed grease out, which seems wierd for grease to wash out that easily. Anyone with any knowledge of this, any help will be greatly appreciated.

(ss1234) · (ss1234) **Join Date: Jul 2005** 09-21-2005, 3:45 PM

sounds like time for a new steering cable

(wakescene) · (wakescene) **Join Date: Feb 2001** 09-21-2005, 4:11 PM

yup, there have been issues with the cables themselves for the 01 and 02 models. I replaced mine this past spring...glad I did, now I can finally drive again with one finger!

(pav) · (pav) **Join Date: Nov 2001** 09-21-2005, 6:00 PM

That stinks! The whole cable? Is it possibly a warranty issue? Did you do it yourself and how hard & expensive is it?
Thanks

(snowboardcorey)

Most likely not a warranty issue, especially since there was quite a bit of water in the boat. Overall the cable is not that bad to replace, if you have done it 5 or 6 times, the first time takes a little while, but is defintally doable.

(boarditup) · (boarditup) **Join Date: Jan 2004** 09-22-2005, 2:24 PM

Steering cables are a wear item, not warranty. Use the removal of the old cable to drag through the new cable. Should be a 1-2 hour job with 2 patient people.

(ss1234) · (ss1234) **Join Date: Jul 2005** 09-22-2005, 4:53 PM

Do a search on this subject, there have been other postings. I replaced a Sanger cable. The guy at my local dealer said to use the old cable to fish a rope through the boat and then pull the new one using the rope. Using the rope you only have to fight one cable at a time. As Karl said, 2 patient people is good, but I would add a couple of beers just to make sure.

(pav) · (pav) **Join Date: Nov 2001** 09-23-2005, 8:35 AM

The beer is a must!

Anyone know of a place to buy a cable online?

Also, does it come with that piston/rod deal with the grease fitting on it, or is that separate? Because that seems to be where the friction is.

Thanks

(pav) · (pav) **Join Date: Nov 2001** 09-27-2005, 2:30 PM

Anyone?

Did a search, either got 1500 inquirys or 0 depending on how I searched

Thanks.

(ss1234) · (ss1234) **Join Date: Jul 2005** 09-27-2005, 3:23 PM

Pav-
my experience was only with a Sanger. Needed the part quick so I got it from my local dealer, (approx $200+/-). It did come with the "piston/rod deal". I don't recall needing any extra parts (except for the beer), that didn't come with the cable.

There was a guy in the shop (looked like he'd changed a cable or two "back in the day") that told me to tie a rope to one end when removing it and use the rope to fish the new one in. Pull it out from the back and pull the new one back to front. That way your not pulling that piston/rod deal through the tight spots.

Once all the stuff was out of the boat R&R'ing the cable was pretty easy.

(acurtis_ttu) · (acurtis_ttu) **Join Date: May 2004** 09-28-2005, 9:30 AM

skidim.com

(pav) · (pav) **Join Date: Nov 2001** 10-02-2005, 4:27 PM

Thanks everyone, I think I have it covered thanks to you all.

Pav