THe best way to waterproof my sub box!

I have a 12" sub I want to put in my MB and I have a box already for it but it is MDF! I really dont want to fiberglass it. I have heard of people using bedliner does this work?

Thats what I use no problems yet

That's what we use here. Spray line them inside and out.

Dont get it wet!!!!! I used a sealant and it worked ok. Now I have a box sitting on some legs so that the box is not getting wet by the floor being wet. I have to change the legs out every once in awhile but thats cheaper than the box.

I've had 3 boxes line-x'd and they've held up for 3 years and look brand new. It's a really good way of sealing it.

Don't panic, 99% of the boxes out there are MDF! Coat it with bedliner real good inside and out, it'll be fine. I put one in my pool once to see if it was good and it didn't leak at all. Make sure to do a few complete coats to seal real good.

I also have bedliner (rhino lining) on mine and it seems to be good. Fortunately, I haven't had a ton of water get in the the locker to test it.

Like ericlee, I also have (4) 1 1/2" thick plastic blocks mounted as legs keeping it off the floor.

One thing you may want to consider, both my subs and the slot port face down towards the boat floor. The (4) plastic legs keep them from hitting the floor, 2 things this helps-

1. it's nice to have the subs facing down and 'protected' from life jackets, bags etc when peeps put things in that same locker that my sub box is in.

2. It also lets the sound/air use the floor of the boat as a kind of sound board for the bass to bounce off of.

Just a thought that has worked for us.

ICE you have your slot ported box firing towards the floor as it sits 1-1/2" above it? You actually like the way it sounds? You should try to set it up differently.

Mike,

Most fiberglass resins are fairly water resistant. Epoxy is superior to poly resins. Bedliner is very effective. In any case, raise the enclosure off the deck with ABS, HDPE or KingStarboard mounting feet. A box sitting on carpet creates a moisture trap where water is eventually wicked up through the protective coating. Most boxes fail from the bottom up.

Also, be sure to coat the edges of the woofer and terminal cup opening with resin.

Put a small radius (sand or file) on the exterior edges so you'll get a thicker application of sealer.

If you use bedliner, which is rough, use a silicon gasket to seal your woofer and terminal cup.


Ice,

I believe that NuBu is making the point that loading the woofer and port into a restrictive path completely changes the bass reflex tuning. A misaligned port always loses its musicality, not necessarily any output.

David
Earmark Marine

So, downfiring is bad? I thought that it would sound better if it fired into something!?!

Please share any info or resources cause I am about to update the stereo again this year and want an optimal sounding setup.

hu bu- the box is in the observers seat storage area. We had the port and subs facing the sidewall before last season, but lost a lot of storage space between the subs/port and the side wall so decided to fire down and add those feet. To us (me and buddy who helped do re-configure) we couldn't tell a huge difference in the sound so we decided to roll with it and it's been fine. Just best use of our space we have and still sounds pretty good. If it matters, it's (2) 12" Kicker CVR's powered by a JBL bpx 1100.1. Plenty loud for me, too loud for wifey. Definitely open to suggestions though.

oops, meant nu bu, not hu bu, my bad!

True if the box is sealed, untrue for a ported box. Don't block that port, fire it out into the boat, if it's in a storage locker vent the locker it so it can do it's thing.

David will chime in I'm sure and give you the rhyme and reasoning with his scientific spin on it....

oh yeah, my locker is vented

If you like it that's all that matters.

if anyone is familar with the malibu xti setups, I was using that locker on the starboard side of the engine.

bump

You can paint it and than use spar varnish also.

Clayton,

I can't get into every possible scenario and variables but here's the basics.

Downfiring is generally done out of necessity when the available height is limited. When downfiring is incorporated it is usually with a sealed box.

Using reinforcing planes to increase output is a legitimate ploy.

The guideline would be to have a 10-inch driver and port at least five inches (half the driver's diameter) away from the hull or other surface. Six inches on a 12-inch driver, etc.

Choking the driver by placing it too close to the hull or sole can defeat the normal benefits of floor, wall or corner loading.

Loading a driver and port into a restrictive path and rigid air mass can effectively change the tuning. It can also reduce power handling below the tuning frequency.

If your box is sufficiently elevated off the sole, and your port is at the perimeter of the box, and you're not pushing the driver to its limit, and you're satisfied with the sound, then don't change it.

Daivd E.M.
Earmark Marine

Rip the carpet off it and cover it with fiber glass resin. It will be water proof.

go to marine store and just get a jug of marine polyurethene coating. Paint it on let it dry a few days. good to go.

make sure you let it thoroughly dry as fumes from silicone and other fumes can damage the driver believe it or not.