Don't want to winterize help

OK, hoping that I don't write back with the dumb a$$ award of a cracket block BUT I don't want to winterize my boat this winter because I live in Oklahoma and it's suppose to be a above normal winter like last year. If it's 60 degrees outside I want to be on the lake. Last winter we had a TON of these days and I wish I hadn't winterized my boat. So this year I'm thinking of doing something that will keep it warm. First it's kept in my 30X40 building attached to my property but it's not heated. I was thinking that I could use my mechanic drop light that uses a 100 Watt bulb put it in the engine compartment leave it on and close the lid. I would also take a towel and put it around the back tow bar so it'd insulate it and keep the heat in. I'd, of course, check it regularly to ensure that the light bulb wasn't burned out. Anyone think I'm already a dumb a$$???? Any other suggestions or should I just winterize the baby and put on my wait cap until spring??? I have an 06 Calabria Pro-V.

If you have a heater it has to be drained. Drain the block and exhaust manifolds, along with any other pertinant parts on your engine. Get a real heater if you routinely get below 30 degrees. I would not trust a light bulb. They make some that are magnetic to stick onto the block. You could even hook it to a thermostat to turn it on automaticaly.

Ken I feel your pain as I live just over here in Arkansas on the AR/OK border. I didn't want to winterize mine either, but a cracked block and or hull and the repair bill makes me not think twice about it. As for keeping it in that shop, is the shop insulated at all? Just how cold does it get in your shop? Instead of a drop light in the engine compartment how about some sort of heater or heating system for the shop. Seems that would be a worthwhile investment, and it wouldn't take much to knock the chill off and keep it from freezing any water left over after an outing. Maybe drop some coin on insulation along with some kind of heater. I know last year it got pretty damn cold for a while here, at least cold enough to do some damage.

As a backup, use 2 drop lights, not that you need the extra heat, but in case a bulb burns out. You can buy "extended life / heavy duty" bulbs at the hardware store.

You don't need any insulation. The only scenario that could get you is if there is an ice storm that knocks out power for days. In that case, go out and disconnect all the hoses.

a kerosene heater in the building would keep it above 32

The buiding's not insulated yet! The average temp last winter was 47 degrees but that doesn't take into account the nightly low. It can be 20 degrees, snow, ice, etc then the next day is 50 and everything thaws and is gone. Redneck glad you totally understand. Guess I'll winterize the dude because a HUGE screw up would just piss me off ;0).

Trust me, its already killed me, especially two weeks ago Sunday, freakin' 80 degrees, even though there was a slight breeze, would've been a nice boat ride anyway. Mine isn't too bad as its an i/o. Plus I haven't found a storage building here in town to put mine in yet and I'm hoping the 20 degree crap stays away until I get it in a building. But thinking about, just being in an enclosed building, I would figure at least a 10 degree difference between the outside temp, which 30 around these parts wouldn't be cold enough to cause any harm, unless we had a solid week or two of it never getting over 30-32.

(Message edited by redneckonaboard06 on November 02, 2006)

Ken, you could just drain the block and cooling system and then hook all the hoses back up. Then if you get a nice day go to the lake and repeat the process.

That's what I do, takes 20 min or so and I can get back in the water if its warm for a coupla days.
West marine sells heavy duty heaters that are safer and a lot more reliable than a bare bulb (fire hazard) They are pricey, but not as pricey as a new block.

1) Learn how the winterize your boat--hot hard to do at all.

2) Purchase a few of magnetic engine heaters: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2000836/c-10101/Nty-1/p-2000836/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10101/tf-Browse/s-10101/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=engine+heater

3) Don't forget about heater cores--if your boat has a heater.

4) Buy tower lights, a hot water shower, 12v electric blankets, and a heater.

Step #4 is the right way to winterize a boat!

I run two block heaters in case one were to burn out or something. The two heaters keep the entire engine comparment warn--warm enough to keep the heater core from freezing. You do have to pay attention to the weather though. Block heaters don't work if a snow storm knocks out the power. If a big storm is coming, good idea to winterize your boat before you loose power. Adding a fan under the cover is nice to have as well.

Ken, you live in Choctaw and im in Norman...Just get
7 gallons of RV antifreeze (the pink stuff)
1 fake a lake
6 ft sections of water hose
1 on/off valve to fit water line
1 5 gallon bucket
1 water hose connector from Lowes to mount to bucket.
Put the fake a lake on your raw water intake pour the antifreeze in the bucket, open the valve and have someone to start the boat.
Run till the antifreeze blows out of the exhaust and the kill the boat. Takes me less than 5 minutes.

you really should drain the block and manifolds before adding the AF...so you might as well jus do what Rich G sayz.

Hey Doug: That worked for me for 18 years in NH. Never once had a problem. Never drained the hoses etc before the antifreeze went in.

One more thought, if you dont want to pull the battery, get a lamp timer and a 1 amp trickle charger. Set it to turn on for about an hour a day. The battery tender didn't work for me, didn't get the deep cycle part of the marine battery.

i had 1 drop light in the doghouse last year. no hoses, no draining, no AF. I think i turned it on 4 times last winter. Only once did it stay on for a few days. no probs. This year, its in the garage - ready for those 80* days

These might make the draining the block a little easier http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MCM000

Here is my take on it. Get really familiarized with your boat and know exactly what it takes and how long it takes to winterize it. I had an old Glastron about 15 years ago (1st boat) that i winterized and then we had a string of sunny days. Well i put the drain plugs back in the block and went out a couple of times. I kept telling myself i needed to take the drain plugs out before it got too cold. Well it got cold and the block cracked. The boat wasn't worth putting a new block in (a little different than an 06 Calabria Pro-V) so i sold the boat for a couple of hundred bucks. I learned from this and will not make the same mistake twice.

Ask yourself if you want to take the time and effort in possibly putting a new block in your boat next March? Or... how about putting $4k-$6k in an account and call it your "gambling" money. If you don't winterize and your block doesn't crack or have any other non-winterization issues you can go to Las Vegas with that money either way its gambling.

I live in TX and Still Winterize my boat. A few years back it snowed and the streets iced over on Thanksgiving day so anything is possible in terms of the weather getting to a freezing point.

I also don't trust the lamp light or heater approach. Even though it has worked for A LOT of people i still have the thoughts of the electricity going out, the bulb blowing out at an inopportune time, etc. You know what they say " the chain is only as strong as the weakest link". You can go a step further and keep the "links on the chain" to a minimum. In other words... don't rely on the bulb, which relys on the drop light which houses the bulb, which relys on the cord, which relys on the socket, which relys on the switch, which relys on the power to the house, which relys on the Electric company. I know i have exagerated things but you get the idea... If you take away the potential source (water) for the block to crack you don't have to worry about all the other things on the list.

Your boat is too new and too nice.