MasterCraft Oil hub assembly DIY...

(Message edited by P-hat in Cincy on May 27, 2007)

Nice tutorial! Very detailed and looks pretty easy to do.

very nice write up with pics, thank you!!

Back when I was a semi-mechanic in a former life, I used to do brake jobs. To get the inner seal out, we would dissasemble as you did, then put the hub back on the spindle without the outer bearing, and then screw on the retaining nut a few threads. The next step was to slowly pull the hub toward you and let the inner bearing catch the edge of the nut and give it a good yank. That would force the inner bearing/seal assembly out of the hub. It was a super quick and easy trick and it did not damage the inner bearing or seal which you could reuse.

I wish I would have seen your post last week, when I had the same problem of oil leaking from all my hubs. Being unfamiliar with the oil bath system, I had looked everywhere for some pics and could not find them. Oh well... dealer fixed it all under warranty- no charge, so I am happy!

I am wondering one thing.... I know that the synthetic gear oil is really good for heat and viscocity life span, but I would think it would be thinner and more prone to leak past seals. I am just wondering what your dealer ment by it would help keep the water out?

(Message edited by woodsracer on May 27, 2007)

(Message edited by woodsracer on May 27, 2007)

Rob,
The dealer did not specify synthetic gear lube, but I already had some open. The dealer lead me to believe that since the gear oil was thicker, it might help fight water being able to penetrate into the hub assembly so easily.

Actually, I had both dino lube and synthetic lube but they were the almost same weight (80W-90 vs 75W90 respectively), so I chose the already open synthetic. Would the dino 80W be that much of a difference? It's easy enough to swap out.
Does anyone else find the blue lettering on black background hard to read?

EDIT: Jace...it is pretty easy to do. By far the most challenging things are (in order): 1) removal of bath cap w/o damaging, 2) installation of bath cap evenly w/o damaging, 2) removal of inner seal. Everything else is pretty basic.

Thanks,
Paul

(Message edited by p-hat in cincy on May 27, 2007)

Great job on the tutorial. I have a MC with the LH hub letting water in. I have the new seal but I did not know if removing the aluminum oil cap/glass assembly was going to damage it beyond use. You answered my question.

Blue lettering on black hurts my friggin eyes!

You serviced your oil up to a very high level. My MC trailer was serviced to about 60% when I got it. That's where I have kept it, I think as long as you have an airspace you will be fine.

Looks like I have something to do Memorial Day since I will not be hitting the crazy lakes.

BTW, my seal leaked because the LH brake caliper went bad due to a defect causing the hub to get hot. My calipers were replaced under warranty. Just wanted to let you know that there may be a root cause for the seal failure. Your brakes are identical to mine, so make sure they are releasing and not dragging!

Continuing...

Ron,
I have seen other's at the same level as you state yours is, but I just refilled to the same level it was when I bought it.

Look closey at the below picture. You can see a line on the shaft where the oil stopped. Not sure if that's some kind of corrosion (due to water intrusion) or something caused by the heat of the exposed (non-oiled) shaft sitting after towing???

Also, if you look hard at the same picture you can see where something(???) rubbed a groove on the seal surface (unless it's always been there). Incidentally, this was the first side to show water intrusion.


(Message edited by P-hat in Cincy on May 27, 2007)

I like to use synthetic oil also. I was just thinking dino oil might be thicker and less prone to leaking past the seals, but synthetic will last longer and is better against heat. If it were mine, I would leave the synthetic in as long as it does not leak past the seals.

Does the other spindle have a groove on the sealing surface? Maybe that groove is where the lip of the seal rides and is supposed to be there?

Rob,
I'll run the synthetic until it needs changed out again and see what happens.

Regarding the hub...negative. Port side is smooth. Not to mention, the groove is rough and would appear to cut (over time) any seal that rode against it. I still have the old seals...I'll go check to see if there was any abnormal wear on then.

BTW...I don't think there's an issue with oil leaking out. It's the water leaking in.

Here's a close up. Almost seems the groove was there before the hub was machined. On second look, maybe not.


(Message edited by P-hat in Cincy on May 28, 2007)

Phat in Cincy, sorry wrong thread, but I'm looking at your ballast install. I have a 20005 X2. How do you like the rear sacs? I'm thinking about removing my rear hard tanks and replacing with 400 lb sacs, mostly for surfing. Do yours ever leak, my front sac has a leaking problem? Either that or looking into 400 lbs of pop-products. There are pros and cons to each method, looking for your input......Thanks in advance......Nice bearing install, hopefully I won't have to do mine for a long time......

20005!?!?! Must be a REAL early prototype?

Love the rear 750's. They leak a little only b/c I cheaped out and didn't buy the Fly High connectors all around. I might open the wallet and get the FH stuff.

You might want to consider the 750's for added surfing capabilities.

Bearing install...I'll get to test it on a long trip to Norris in a couple weekends. I'll take a picture of my wheel shooting past me on the interstate...

(Message edited by P-hat in Cincy on May 28, 2007)

Wow!!! very nice detail. We had the cap crack on us during a 3500 mile road trip. It didn't leak fluid, but it got water in it our first launch. We had to over night a replacement. No one but MC dealers seems to carry this part.

Is the level of fluid that you filled correct? I seem to recall only filling mine 3/4 full.

awl,
It's 'correct' per the level that has always been in it. I'll contact my dealer today to see determine correct level.
Thanks,
Paul

Paul,

My cap it has a line that shows were to fill it to. It is about 3/4. My trailer is a 2005 and carries our X45. I don't know if that matters. I noticed your cap has a silver ring on the outside. Mine doesn't have this. Just FYI.

Thanks.
I got in touch with my dealer and he stated they fill about 70% full so maybe I'll drain some fluid out.

I wonder if there's a difference b/w a single axle and double axle??? There's another question I'll have to get answered.

The manual doesn't say how full, but it does say what type of fluid. From the MC manual...

I confirmed with my dealer that it doesn't matter if it's a single axle or dual axle, they'll fill them 70-80% full.

FYI...I had the mods delete the opening post since I reposted the pictures with more clear text.

What I did want to repost is something that was deleted. That is...I am no mechanic and what I did was what I learned over the years and what needed to be done to complete this job. If there are mistakes or better ways of doing things, please post them!

Thanks,
Paul

Looked good to me! What is the silver ring on the outer edge of your cap?

My entire cap is made of one piece of machined aluminum with a plastic site window in it. You can see it in the pic that I am removing the end cap from the hub.

However, if you are talking about the last picture of the DIY with the tire remounted, there is a chrome show piece that covers the hub.

Looks like the mods are doing some rearranging to make sure part of the install is the first post again. Thanks!

That's what I thought. My cap is all plastic. Machined aluminum is a better way to go IMHO. Mine was cracked when I had the tire changed.