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Join Date: Jul 2008
08-06-2008, 8:11 AM
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I want to install a second battery for running my stereo when the boat isn't on. I suck at electricity. I am looking for the absolute easiest way to be able to charge both batteries off the alternator and be able to isolate the second battery when the boat is not running but the stereo is on. Is there anything that is an almost idiot proof solution to this? If not, can someone point me in the direction of a resource that might explain how to do this? Thanks in advance for any and all help. I greatly appreciate it. Keith
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Join Date: Dec 2007
08-06-2008, 8:33 AM
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Order a 2 battery isolator off ebay. If you order the cole hersey isolator make sure you hook it up on the negative side or it wont work.
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Tyler
08-06-2008, 8:38 AM
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http://www.nulime.com/Blue-Sea-7650-Add-Battery/p240103 No idea what that site is, just seemed to be the best price. That's a pretty foolproof solution.
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Join Date: Aug 2006
08-06-2008, 8:58 AM
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Yeap, I have this switch, first generation kit from Blue Sea, not as nice as this package unit, but still works flawless. Check out Blue Sea website for more details. I've had it for 2 yrs and never had a problem. It charges both batteries automatically (one battery at a time) so you never have to worry about switching to "1" or "2" or Combine.
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Join Date: Aug 2005
08-06-2008, 9:04 AM
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http://www.yandina.com/c100Info.htm I'm on my second season w/o any issues. Also good if you want to run a lead acid start battery and a AGM or other deep cycle for your stereo. Check your alternator output to know if you need the 100 or 150.
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Join Date: Apr 2003
08-06-2008, 9:19 AM
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get second battery. place it next to 1st battery. When first battery dies hook jumper cables to second one drive around for an hour. This is the ghetto isolator. or check out hellroaring.com
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Join Date: Aug 2006
08-06-2008, 9:24 AM
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That's the beauty of the Blue Sea system. Using your existing alternator is fine, no matter what the output capacity. If it can charge your current battery, it can charge another battery since it only does it when the #1 battery is full before it switches the charge over to the #2 battery (it's all done automatically). The ACR (Automatic Charging Relay) is part of the package, that's the brain of the system. The switch allows both batteries to be used separately as two separate circuits so one can be drained while the other one is still 100% fresh. (Message edited by kvoman on August 06, 2008)
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Join Date: Sep 2006
08-06-2008, 9:26 AM
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second tomfish's idea for easiest route to take
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Join Date: Aug 2006
08-06-2008, 9:30 AM
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Yeah, that's if you remember to charge the 2nd battery before you head out and remember to throw in the jumper cable in there!
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Join Date: May 2004
08-06-2008, 9:30 AM
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even easier than tom's, just buy a jumper box.
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Join Date: Jun 2005
08-06-2008, 9:34 AM
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hey adam, that is my 2nd battery
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Join Date: Jun 2003
08-06-2008, 9:34 AM
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I still think that this is the best and easiest setup you can do. It gives priority to the starting battery, keeps the batteries separate when the boat is off, it is cheap and it is easy to install. There is also no voltage drop like with an isolator. It is somewhere around $50-$60 and once installed you never have to worry about using a switch. As an option you can run it to your key switch or put a manual switch on the dash so you can parallel the batteries at start. Keith, my company sells these and everybody has been very happy with them. If you have any questions feel free to call me at our toll free number. 1-800-234-2981. Ask for Brett. http://www.surepower.com/pdf/separatorinterconnect.pdf (Message edited by polarbill on August 06, 2008)
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Join Date: Aug 2006
08-06-2008, 9:48 AM
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Those battery booster really do come in handy for yourself or anyone else that needs a quick jump. I wished I brought mine along this weekend. Had to stop to help a father and son on a boat with 3 dead batteries. I didn't have my booster so had to hook the jumper cable to my Group 27 battery, works just as well but inconvenient since I had to remove the box cover and tray on top of the batteries, etc. Oh yeah, if you have a multi-battery system and need a jump, make sure your switch is on #1 or whichever the engine battery is connected to, don't leave it on "Combine"!!!
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Join Date: Jun 2007
08-06-2008, 9:50 AM
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I 2nd the jumper box thats what i got.
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Join Date: Jun 2003
08-06-2008, 10:18 AM
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A jumper box isn't a bad idea to use as a last resort backup, but a really ghetto way to do it. And another thing. If you are using a starting battery and draining it down often to where you need to jump it then the life of that battery is going to be really short. People, if you spend 10, 20, 30, 40, 50k on a boat please spend the $150 to get it set up the right way. You will save yourself money in the long run on batteries, starters, alternators, lights, gauges and any other electronics. (Message edited by polarbill on August 06, 2008) (Message edited by polarbill on August 06, 2008)
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Join Date: May 2004
08-06-2008, 10:30 AM
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Brett, I really like that isolator/combiner. IMO the best way to run dual batteries is using a perko type switch along with a battery cobiner...Brett's link does this only using one piece of equipment. Definately the way to go.
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Join Date: Jul 2008
08-06-2008, 11:27 AM
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I have 4 batteries. I use the blue sea system. Bank 1 is just a starting battery (always the first to charge) and bank 2 is the 3 deep-cycle batteries that I use to keep the stereo pumping all day long. This + 165amp alternator + a 4-bank marine charger (designed for trolling motors and always plugged in when the boat is on shore) have eliminated a boat that was PLAGUED with dead batteries. The blue sea system is awesome.
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Join Date: Jan 2005
08-06-2008, 11:47 AM
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The easiest way, just buy it all at once and spend an afternoon to install it, this might help you some: http://www.ase-supply.com/category_s/122.htm I would run the SP Separator: http://www.ase-supply.com/category_s/154.htm
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