Has any one made a Prop Puller out of a C-Clamp

(ldr) · (ldr) **Join Date: Nov 2002** 07-01-2008, 3:34 PM

Just like the title says. I thought I read that some on here had just made their own out of a C- Clamp. I work in a welding shop so I can have the guys weld one up no problem. I just need to know what size clamp works best and what to use to fit around the shaft.

I run the powder coating side of the shop so maybe I'll even coat it blue ore something so I don't lose it like I did my last one.

(wakeboardsam) · (wakeboardsam) **Join Date: Jun 2008** 07-01-2008, 4:05 PM

by far the easiest prop pulled that works is the harmonic type. I just a "peg" of my old freestyle bike, I cut it in half and presto, a harmonic pulled... Works good!! Any long bolt will work or even a small section a threaded pipe.

(mikeski) · (mikeski) **Join Date: Aug 2003** 07-01-2008, 6:56 PM

Used to have one a pipefitter gave me. Didn't fit between the prop and strut of most boats.

(curt489) · (curt489) **Join Date: Feb 2008** 07-02-2008, 5:43 AM

Just go to autozone and get a 2 way wheel puller. They cost about $25 and works great.

(trace) · (trace) **Join Date: Feb 2002** 07-02-2008, 7:20 AM

C-clamps that are big enough in throat will probably be too thick in the middle to clear a 4-blade prop. It needs to be pretty skinny. Also as Mikeski says, there's not a whole lot of room between the prop and the cutlass bearing, so it will need to have just the right shape on that end.

Sam, I don't understand how you made a harmonic puller from an axle peg and a bolt? There are no threads on the prop to pull on.

With access to a shop, the easiest thing to do would probably be to get a couple pieces of ~3/8" plate, cut them into the below shapes, and get some long ~3/8" bolts and nuts. Put the C-shaped one behind the prop, and the solid one over the end of the shaft.

puller

(rodmcinnis) · (rodmcinnis) **Join Date: Sep 2002** 07-02-2008, 9:11 AM

I have used home made prop pullers like Trace described. They work, but they can be a PITA.

I would not expect a C-Clamp modification to work well at all and it could get dangerous. Sometimes the prop pops off with little encouragement, other times I have to really crank down on the puller. I would be afraid that a standard C-clamp would have too much flex and it could slip off.

Either build one like Trace suggested or pay the $100 for a good puller.

Or, if this is a one shot deal, see if the shop that sells you the prop has one you can borrow.

Rod

(pwningjr) · (pwningjr) **Join Date: Apr 2007** 07-02-2008, 9:16 AM

If you have a 3 blade, you can use a gear puller.

(wakeboardsam) · (wakeboardsam) **Join Date: Jun 2008** 07-02-2008, 9:31 AM

do a google search for acme harmonic prop puller and you will understand. You screw the peg or large nut onto the shaft and hit it with a hammer and the prop vibrates loose. Its the same way we changed a prop in the navy.

(bill_airjunky) · (bill_airjunky) **Join Date: Apr 2002** 07-02-2008, 5:34 PM

What if it's still in the water? I guess your banking on always being able to change the prop on a trailer or boat lift?

(wake_upppp) · (wake_upppp) **Join Date: Nov 2003** 07-02-2008, 5:37 PM

... be carefull making things for yourself that are patented... could be big legal troubles... LOL

(boarditup) · (boarditup) **Join Date: Jan 2004** 07-02-2008, 6:15 PM

C-clamp pullers are supposed to be struck with a hammer to pull the prop, not cranked down. Many shafts are damaged that way. I know a lot of people do it and it works most of the time, but it is not the way it should be done.

Some larger props use the gear puller concept. You have several bolts that you tighten up in a star pattern one full turn at a time and strike the butt end to set up the vibration to remove the prop.

Most people would not go on a trip in a car without a spare tire and the tools to change it. It should be the same in the boat. Get a puller, extra prop, tools, impeller, hose clamps, and jumper cables. It is well worth it.

(dizzyj) · (dizzyj) **Join Date: Jul 2003** 07-03-2008, 12:06 AM

I use a harmonic one and love it. And while I think it would be more difficult to change in the water I still think it would be easier than a traditioan pulled in the same situation

(otown_dave) · (otown_dave) **Join Date: Dec 2007** 07-03-2008, 5:07 AM

I made one from a clamp I bought at harbor freight once, turned out nice. just watch out for the thickness of the plate that goes behind the prop. Seems that cheap Chinese steel is just pot metal & to my surprise it broke the clamp in two

(rodmcinnis) · (rodmcinnis) **Join Date: Sep 2002** 07-03-2008, 11:18 AM

I have changed a prop on an inboard ski boat with the boat in the water. We were on Lake Powell and a LONG way from the trailer.

The biggest concern was that anything dropped would not be retrieved as the water was at least 100' deep. The biggest issue was that the prop puller was a home made and had to be assembled over the mangled prop. Hold two pieces of metal in place, pass a bolt through, put a nut on the bolt, repeat for at least one more bolt all on one breath.

It can be done. If the trailer is anywhere near by I would use it.....

Rod

(bill_airjunky) · (bill_airjunky) **Join Date: Apr 2002** 07-03-2008, 1:49 PM

The fact that I may have to change the prop in the water is why I like the conventional OJ prop puller. It's all one piece & if you tie a piece of string to it, you won't lose it.

Keeping track of the key...... now that is tougher. So I carry a spare. Plus a spare nut & cotter pin.

And the floating wrench is nice too.

(bcail) · (bcail) **Join Date: Aug 2007** 07-07-2008, 11:21 AM

Yes, I made one. I used a 6 inch (I think) C-clamp. cut off the end and welded in a piece of 3/4 - 1/4 that I shaped into a U. I also cut off the swivel foot on the screw and pointed it a little so it would stay on the end of the shaft.

I've used it twice so far and it's worked well.