i have tried jl, kicker,soundstream,a/d/s, boston subs in cars.. boats are kinda tough sub install.. there are a lot of factors to consider...power requirements, placement and box size take part in a boat installation... power- consider your amp(class a/b or d) class d amps require less power and run cool. also a 100-150 amp altenator, batteries should be taken into consideration. placement / box size- hugh, hugh problem on a boat..you are filling a very large, open area.. the sub will sound its best when the cone is placed firing into the cabin... if it is placed in the storage area, then the sound might not make it out and sound quality will be compromised.. dont get me wrong, it will work... but will require a large sub/box/amp..depending on the boat- the front drivers area is more than likely your best spot or have a ported box with the ports firing into the boat have tried subs in the past and the jl are good subs (though after time, the surround came apart from the cone). have been running image dynamics idq series the last 3 years with very good success.. the idq series have been out for awhile and are a establised designed and are easy to get a good sounding sub..they need very little airspace (.85 for sealed and 1.25 for ported), easy to drive (efficent), very high sound quality (unusual in a car sub), and they hit hit very, very hard.. imo(take it with a grain of salt)- you can do better, but it will be a much, much higher cost(higher powered amps, reworked electrical system) and greater box space (box and storage space depends on your boat and your willingness to dedicate to it) hope that helps. (Message edited by clubmyke on February 07, 2005)
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