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Old     (jarrod)      Join Date: May 2003       02-10-2005, 9:26 AM Reply   
Has anyone done this? Any experiences to share? Special tools I should have? Did anyone purchase the hole saw made especially for fiberglass?

Just looking for any advice. I'm starting my install today.
Old     (uga33)      Join Date: Jul 2003       02-10-2005, 9:45 AM Reply   
Here is a good article.http://www.malibuboatowners.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid= 64&mode=thread&order=0&thold=0
Old     (jarrod)      Join Date: May 2003       02-10-2005, 9:51 AM Reply   
excellent! Thank you!
Old     (toyotafreak)      Join Date: Sep 2003       02-10-2005, 10:32 AM Reply   
If you're not outside already....

http://www.epicmarine.com/docs/Toyota%20Epic%20Perfect%20Pass%20Install.pdf
Old    trickskisrock            02-10-2005, 11:00 AM Reply   
The only thing I'd add is place a block of wood on the opposite side that you are drilling through. This will help keep splintering to a minimum. Technically, perfect pass tell you to drill half the hole from the inside and half from the outside but at least in most direct drives, this is impossible to do because of lack of clearance in the engine box for a drill.
Old     (jarrod)      Join Date: May 2003       02-10-2005, 12:44 PM Reply   
Thanks guys. This info is a huge help
Old     (jklein)      Join Date: May 2001       02-10-2005, 1:06 PM Reply   
When I drilled through my hull to install a water scoop for my ballast, I first taped off the area, then ran the hole saw in reverse until I was through the gelcoat. I did the same thing just today when I was drilling a hole for my tower speaker wire harness. It works great and leaves a very clean hole.

Just be aware if you're drilling into the motor box of a malibu, that you're going to hit a gap between the hull and the glass that covers the motor box bottom. Don't be surprised when water starts coming out. This is perfectly normal due to the fact that Malibu's have a nice smooth bottom to the motorbox. Just keep drilling without too much pressure (let the saw do the work) and eventually you'll break through w/o too many splinters.
Old     (sangeria)      Join Date: Dec 2003       02-10-2005, 3:28 PM Reply   
My only counsel to you is to drill a pilot hole first from the inside out in the location where you want to paddle wheel to go. My cousin didn't do that, thought he was in the right spot, and proceeded to put the 2 inch hole saw through the side of his gas tank! Luckily no one was hurt but this is a case where measuring 2-3 times and cutting once is a good idea!
Old     (tigeal)      Join Date: Jul 2002       02-10-2005, 7:42 PM Reply   
John, I was watching a guy drill his paddle wheel hole in his malibu responce and about halfway thru it sprung a leak and was very strange as it seamed the water was squirting out as if under pressure, You are calling this normal? I never did hear what happened with this boat but I would be very worried if I had water between the layers of glass in the hull of my boat.
Old     (toyotafreak)      Join Date: Sep 2003       02-10-2005, 10:15 PM Reply   
Hey, I don't like this either, but my boat traps some water between the hull and the 'liner'. (Assuming it's the same thing you BU guys are describing.)

Basically, you would normally layup the hull bottom and top halves and then join them. Instead, we sandwich a third piece, the liner, in between the two.

Layup the bottom hull, place stringers and foam or wet-floor ballast tanks, and coat everything with a souped up resin. Lay the liner on top of all that. THEN bond the bottom assembly to the top hull and you're golden. Nice to have the stringers, etc. all held in place, nice to have the extra rigidity in the hull and nice to have the clean look in the exposed bilge areas.

I do notice in the very middle of the boat (where the depth finder and bilge pump are at) that I can suck water out of there and watch a decent amount seep back in. This water must be trapped in some voids between bottom hull and liner. Annoying, but not concerning to me.

It's not like there are voids in between fiberglass layers - the type that helped bring down the Airbus over Long Island. This is a gap between two parts whose combined rigidity is not really determined by 100% contact between the parts.
Old     (jklein)      Join Date: May 2001       02-11-2005, 8:40 AM Reply   
All BU's with the liner have this void and it traps water. I have never heard of any hull issues with Malibu over this particular "feature". It's been heavily discussed at malibuboatowners.com by people that know way more about it than me. The bottom line I got from reading info about it, was it was not a problem.
Old     (leewilson)      Join Date: Sep 2002       02-15-2005, 11:16 AM Reply   
J-Rod

How did the install go? I just finished installing Perfect Pass this winter. My 2 cents is make sure you tape the bottom really well, I used the 2 inch blue tape. Drill in reverse to start the hole, after etching through the fiberglass, you can drill in forward slowly. I purchase some 3M silicone for boats at West Marine and glopped in on. I let it dry for a week and it peeled off the excess easily, no razo needed. I also heard from Perfect Pass that there is an adaptor for Malibu if the paddle wheel does not reach far down enough. Drop me an email if you have additional questions.
Old     (jarrod)      Join Date: May 2003       02-15-2005, 11:31 AM Reply   
Wilson. Glad to hear your install went well.

I ran into two problems. One: the gauge display was dented and scratched. It's on it's way back to PP for an exchange.

Second, The area they recommended for my paddlewheel was already occupied by my water temp sensor, depth sensors, drain plug, and water intake. I held off on drill until consulting with PP. It's going to be a couple more weeks I believe.

I did purchase the extended faring you are referring to. It places the paddle wheel 1" deeper.

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