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Join Date: Jun 2004
07-14-2004, 11:26 AM
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Ok, so I have the new impeller installed correctly this time. Water shoots out the back normally and the temperature stays cool....in the driveway connected to a water hose. I took it to the lake last night to try it out and the temperature rose very rapidly and I had to turn it off within 3 minutes of starting it. I opened the engine cover and looked at what could still be wrong, and I noticed that there was almost no water in the strainer, and when I turned the motor on, almost no water was being sucked through the lines. When I checked the lines, there were no clogs or anything. At this point im thinking that the main water pump has gone bad, and if that isn't the case then hell I don't know what to do. I would post this on skidim.com but that board gets about 2 hits a day. Again, any and all help is appreciated and thanks in advance.
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07-14-2004, 1:07 PM
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A leak someplace in the cooling lines, probably, allowing air in. If air gets in, it won't suck up water properly. That's what was happening to my '92 Prostar, anyway.
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Join Date: Dec 2003
07-14-2004, 1:28 PM
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Did you check the main intake grate and see if that is clogged with something?
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Join Date: Jul 2002
07-14-2004, 1:41 PM
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Have you tried asking at www.planetnautique.com? They have a great technical section adn lots of helpful people. I would bet on some kind of blockage. Did you connect to the hose after the lake episode to see if it ran fine again at home?
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07-14-2004, 1:42 PM
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I had a collapsed hose that was restricting the flow. Check all the hoses to see if they are "soft".
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07-14-2004, 2:07 PM
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could be your thormostat sticking.
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Join Date: Feb 2001
07-14-2004, 4:12 PM
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A few things to try. Thermostat, no good way to tell if its good or not, just have to replace it. Raw water primer pump, I had a problem with my boat where it would run hot at low speeds and cool down at higher RPMs. The water primer pump had gone out. How to test it - pull the outlet hose off and stick it in a 5 gallon bucket, it should fill the bucket in 15 seconds, if it doesn't, you need a new pump. Transmission cooler strainer, you may have already checked this, but its another thing to check. The trans cooler is a cylindrical fitting on the hose, pull the hose off the top and check the strainer. Not sure if your nautique has this or not, but its something to check for. Later Tiffany
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07-15-2004, 8:55 AM
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strainer might be loose or your o-ring may be m.i.a.
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07-15-2004, 10:33 AM
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check the o-ring, check the connections (for air leak) clean the tranny cooler screen, then start thinking about replacing the thermostat, then the circulation pump
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Join Date: Aug 2003
07-15-2004, 10:38 AM
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As I posted before, check that strainer, they are the source of many evils... They cause more problems then they solve. Mine is in a cabinet in the garage just in case I want to put it back when I sell the boat.
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Join Date: Jul 2002
07-15-2004, 11:18 AM
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For the record, you can test a thermostat by sticking it in a glass of hot water (like to the temp of the stat) Just boil some water in a teakettle. They are cheap, but you can get bad ones from the store new. I keep a nutdriver in my boat that fits all those little hose clamps. Run around and tighten them all up. If you're using a flushpro in the driveway, it may not be closing fully and sucking air when you're at the lake. Eric
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Join Date: Mar 2002
07-15-2004, 11:59 AM
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By the "main water pump," I assume you mean the water circulation pump that looks like an automotive water pump. It has nothing to do with the strainer, and it is not the problem (or at least not the only problem) if the strainer is not filling up. Also, a faulty thermostat would not cause a problem at the strainer. When you are operating it on the driveway, the whole system up to the raw water pump is pressurized from the hose. You don't have this pressure on the lake, and this fact can help identify the type of problem you are facing. So, I would: 1. Check for a collapsing hose between the intake scupper and the raw water pump (RWP). 2. Check for the placement of the O-ring in the strainer assembly, and check the assembly itself for cracks. Before doing a lot of work checking out the strainer, however, you may want to just bypass it and see if that fixes the heating problem. 3. Tighten (but not over-tighten) all connections between the scupper and the RWP. Make sure all thread connections are tight and not cross-threaded. If you have a shower or heater, be sure to check these hoses and connections for leaks, too. 4. Check for any blockages between the intake scupper and the RWP. The transmission cooler is a prime suspect, and you clean it by back-flushing it using garden hose (and picking out crud by hand, if necessary). Also, if the hoses are old, a piece of the inside wall could be collapsing. Squeeze the hoses along their length, feeling for sponginess. Hope this helps. (Message edited by fogey on July 15, 2004)
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07-15-2004, 7:37 PM
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To expand on what Jeff just said about the hose pressure vs. lake no pressure deal- I'd like to share with you a way to run your boat in the driveway that is much safer than a "fake-a-lake", and more accurately resembles the operating conditions at the lake: Disconnect your inlet hose somewhere upstream of your impeller and run a seperate hose from that point to a 5 gal (or more) bucket full of water (I set the bucket on the fender), keeping the hose a safe distance (1" or so)from the bottom of the bucket (I cut "V"s in the bottom of mine for added security). Now run your garden hose into the bucket. I drilled 2 small holes at the top of the bucket for each hose, to zip tie them to the bucket. Now turn on the garden hose, and when the bucket is full, start 'er up. Now the boat is sucking up unpressurized water from the bucket just like it does at the lake. I have found that running over an idle, the hose cannot keep up with the motor, and the level in the bucket will go down pretty quick. That alone is enough to keep me from using a fake-a-lake. At an idle, the level will come back up in the bucket, giving me back a 5 gallon "reserve". This is how New England CC recommended I run my boat in the driveway and it has worked very well, and takes < 5 minutes to set up. That's how they run theirs in the shop, except they use a 55 gallon drum. ;) (Message edited by fun-9c1 on July 15, 2004)
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07-16-2004, 6:36 PM
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That is exactly how I run mine in the driveway. The only thing I change is, if I want to run up to temp, and have higher that idle speeds, I place the bucket under the exhaust, so I am "recycling" the water, and the hose is just topping off the bucket and tempering the water temp. This way the engine won't ever deplenish the bucket, and I get the thermostat opened sooner so I can then suck in the RV/Marine antifreeze for the boat's short winter nap. I do like the idea of the v-notch and hole to zip tie the hoses to the bucket.
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