The first picture allows you to run auxiliary equipment (stereo) off the second battery and have it charge off the engine alternator without the operator having to operate any switches. The second picture allows the same thing, plus it allows for starting the engine off the auxiliary battery. Eventually you will get to the point where your main battery is dead (perhaps it is old, or perhaps you left the running lights on all night) but the auxiliary still has enough to get you started. Just turn the switch to BOTH, start the engine, then remember to turn the switch back. The installation as shown, and the "Sure Power Isolators" mentioned, are the rectifier (diode) style and have a significant drawback: the diode drop will significantly reduce the amount of output you will get from the alternator (note that the top wire in the diagram is the connection to the engine alternator). Unless your alternator has "remote sense" (not available on any stock alternator, sometimes available on after market alternators) the diode drops will result in the voltage the battery sees being 0.2 volts up to 0.7 volts (depending on the style of diodes used in the isolator)lower than what the alternator is putting out. Since the alternator is regulating based on what it sees it will cut the current back much sooner which will result in the battery charging taking much longer than it would otherwise. Note that you will still be able to get full current out of the alternator for running the stereo, lights and so on, but if you have run the battery down and need to get it charged back up it will take a lot longer. I prefer the use of the "battery combiners" which eliminate this drawback. They really aren't any harder to install and eliminate this problem.
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