89 MC Prostar 190 Mechanical Question

I have an 89 Mastercraft Prostar 190 with around 1300 hours on it. I’ve had it for about a year and a half. Last week when I went out it was running at around 70% power. We changed the points and spark plugs on it last year and that seemed to make a big difference. It still idles and starts great, but it doesn’t have the power it usually does. The Mastercraft dealer thought it might be the fuel filters which I have not changed before.
Anyone have any idea what could be causing the loss of power?
Or has anyone replaced the fuel filters before and had an increase in power? If so, how do you do it?

The other problem I have is that I have to joggle the shifter in neutral in order for the ignition to kick in when starting it. I think there is a bad connection somewhere to the kill switch, but I don’t know where to look to fix it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

doug my first thought was fule filter but i have pretty limited mechanical knowledge. to change it just pull out the old one or get a good look at it and then go to the autoparts store and find a replacement. usually about 4-8 bucks. the filter sits between your gas tank and your carb. follow the line until you reach it(usually its near the back of the engine). if your really lost then go to the autoparts store first and look at some of the filters they have there so you get an idea as to what youre looking for. filters are usually held on with hose clamps.
if youre wiggling the throttle id say your linkage going to the tranny is out of adjustment. id go about figuring out if it was the kill switch or the tranny first though. next time this happens undo the linkage to the tranny(usually just a clip and a washer) and shift it into neutral by hand. if she starts up then you know you need to adjust the linkage(turn the screw around the post). if she doesnt then you know you have a kill switch problem. i dont know the kill switch principles but i think they are an all or nothing thing and wiggling the handle isnt gonna fix it. keep us posted.

also id clean the carb. there are 4 bolts at the base of the carb. buy some carb spray and spray that crap everywhere. as i said i am not a mechanical guy and these are pretty easy things to do. if you feel uncomfortable just take a couple of digital images for reference when you put the thing back together. if you do both of these and you have no major problems then id say you have a really good chance of fixing the problem.

Doug,
Each and every year at service, usually sometime in April or May it goes in. My normal service which i insist on is, points, rotor cap, wires, plugs, impeller, fule filter, change oil, trany fluid and pump maint. I also have my compression checked the past few years since i am now over 1,100 hrs. Good maintance is worth every cent to keep and great boat running for years.

(Message edited by ramhouse on July 26, 2005)

(Message edited by ramhouse on July 26, 2005)

Thank you all for your help.

Do you know where to unhook the linkage to the tranny? I am not used to working on inboards, just outboards. Is this connection on the backside of the throttle lever plate, or is it internal? Where and what do i adjust if i find that it is the linkage then where do i go to adjust? Thanks.

follow your shift cable(shift cable is probably a red teleflex cable) to the tranny. its an external connection. better yet have someone shift back and forth and you will see exactly where the cable attaches to the lever. if it is the linkage either rotate the screw clockwise or counterclockwise accordingly.

My 96 sanger has a velvet drive tranny. On the top right side (opposite the side that the shift lever is attached) there is a sensor coming out of the tranny with 2 wires. This is the neutral switch. In neutral the switch is "closed" if it is not in neutral switch "opens". Easily checked with an ohm meter. With the throttle in "neutral" check the switch (open or closed). You can turn the linkage screw whatever way is required until the switch "closes".

I had the same "jiggle the handle" problem on my boat. I talked to the mechanic at the dealer and he said those switchs are so basic they "rarely" go out. He said 99% of the time it's just the linkage adjustment.

Hope this helps

I replaced the spark plugs and the fuel filters last night and I must have done something wrong in replacing the fuel filters. It started just fine but quickly cut out. It is probably starved for gas so i must have done something wrong in replacing them. Any clues what i could have done wrong.

filters? did you replace the filter on the carb too? if not you should just have one filter. possibly put the filter on upside down(is it the metal encased type of filter?)

On the "jiggle the handle" problem, I had a neutral safety switch go out on my '86 MC PS190. Check that the 2 screws that hold down the two wires are on tight and not corroded. If the boat still has the problem, you can eliminate that switch be removing one of the wires and putting both wires on one screw, simulating the switch being on. If the problem goes away, replace the neutral safety switch.

The neutral safety switch is screwed into the top of your transmission, with two wires attached to the top. Should look like this:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R153011


On your latest problem, it definitely sounds like a problem at your fuel filter assembly, or you kinked or plugged the line, or didn't reconnect something. The carb had some fuel left in it, so it burnt that up but then wasn't getting any more from your line. Take the fuel filter assembly apart again and check for things that would stop the fuel flow. Did you disconnect the fuel line from the tank or carb to clean another screen or filter? If so, check those too.