Screamin' Hot Axle...surge Brake Adjustment?

(sangeria) · (sangeria) **Join Date: Dec 2003** 07-17-2005, 9:43 PM

Can anyone point me to a tutorial or other information about adjusting the surge brakes on my trailer? I think they're rubbing and causing tremendous heat within the wheel/bearing housing. My right front wheel (tandem axle trailer) is screaming hot after about 30 minutes...thought it was going to catch fire last time I towed. The grease is pouring out of the bearing buddy it's so hot. Any help or any other thoughts on what might be wrong is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Sangeria

(tlb) · (tlb) **Join Date: Feb 2003** 07-17-2005, 10:11 PM

Dosen't sound like brakes, Sounds like the bearing is shot.

(mikeski) · (mikeski) **Join Date: Aug 2003** 07-17-2005, 10:14 PM

The brakes might be hanging up, new backing plates are not that expensive and they solve most almost all issues with the brakes.

(domin8) · (domin8) **Join Date: Mar 2004** 07-17-2005, 10:51 PM

Is your 30 min. tow on level ground or do you have steep down hill ?

(sangeria) · (sangeria) **Join Date: Dec 2003** 07-17-2005, 10:55 PM

Clete...totally level ground.

(vortech347) · (vortech347) **Join Date: Aug 2000** 07-18-2005, 11:33 AM

I had the same problem. All the grease melted out of my bearing. Thought the bearing was bad. So I took the drum off to replace the bearing and found one of the brake shoe's friction lining had fallen off the shoe and was wedged between the shoe and the drum causing friction between the two and the heat buildup. I went ahead and replaced the bearings, the shoes and the bearing buddy and it solved the problem. This was on drum brakes.

If you have disc brakes the rotor will start to discolor from the heat if the brake is sticking.

(uga33) · (uga33) **Join Date: Jul 2003** 07-18-2005, 11:52 AM

If your trailer is drum brakes the calibers may have rusted shut. it happened to me this year and to buy a rebuild kit to fix it. You can adjust drum brakes from the backside of the drum usually on the bottom you will see a hole or it may have a rubber plug in it. look throygh the hole and you will see an adjustment wheel that you rotate one way or the other to make an adjustment.

(rodmcinnis) · (rodmcinnis) **Join Date: Sep 2002** 07-18-2005, 3:30 PM

If the brakes are causing the heating problem then it isn't likely an adjustment problem, something has gone wrong. Adjustment is what you need when there is too much slop in the tongue or the brakes simply don't work.

I have had problems like this when either the clips that hold the brake shoes in place have broken or the return spring on the brake shoes have broken.

Any way you look at it you need to tear that wheel apart and inspect it closely. If it has badly overheated you may need to replace the seal and possibly the bearings.

(air_dooley) · (air_dooley) **Join Date: Dec 2004** 07-19-2005, 8:40 AM

when youre all hooked up is your rig and trailer level?

(flux) · (flux) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 07-19-2005, 8:51 AM

Ironic, but we just trashed our disk brakes without knowing it. Our bad for not doing a better inspection. Got grinding noises and hot axles. Tore it apart last night as per the manufacturer's parts guys suggestions and the pads were totally gone on one side of each axlew and the studs on the pads had trashed the rotors, it was a mess. So now we are replacing the hub rotors and pads and maybe bearings too when a little prevention would have had us replacing just the pads.

Lesson learned on that one. Never overlook your trailer, it's just as important as the boat and you ain't goin no place without it!!! Keep your lugs properly torqued, your hubs greased, your surge brake resevoir full, and check your pads once a month.

(sangeria) · (sangeria) **Join Date: Dec 2003** 07-19-2005, 11:45 PM

Tom -

When I'm all hooked up it looks pretty level...maybe a bit lower in the front than the back though...but not much.

Sangeria

(gwnkids) · (gwnkids) **Join Date: Nov 2003** 07-20-2005, 8:41 AM

Just had the same issue. We were comming home from the river air temp 117 or so, Could not even touch the lug nuts! I thought the disk pads were rubbing, the barring buddy bras poped off some where (only the axle with the brakes, greese went every where. Went to the local trailer shop had the complete inspection done.
They found everything in good order, repacked all 4 wheels toped off the surge res.
The cause:
1) Heavy boat (they estimated 5000 lbs with the trailer) being slowed or stoped with only one set of brakes.
2) Over greesed, I always max out the blue ring, more is not better, it just blows by the seal when the greese heats up. They recommend 2 pumps every 100 miles or so.

(load) · (load) **Join Date: Jul 2003** 07-20-2005, 9:25 AM

Had the same problem as Bryan coming down from Trinity lake, CA. In the shop now being checked out. Is it possible to add brakes to the second axle, and has anyone done that?

(flux) · (flux) **Join Date: Jun 2003** 07-20-2005, 12:43 PM

I am going through way more grease on my brake axle (disk) and a have seen alot of grease coming back out. I may definately be overpumping the bearing buddy, but I am not ruling out the excess heat from the disk brake hub somewhat liquifying the grease either, causing it to come out the bearing buddy side. No rear seal leaks, so it should be OK.

We are replacing the disk hubs, pads, and seals tomorrow.

An easy check on disk brake bubs to see what is rubbing is to jack up the wheel and remove the tire. Spin it and listen, if you have rubbing, remove the caliper (should be 1 bolt and a couple clips) and spin the wheel again, if you still hear rubbing your bearings could be in trouble. Check your pads, ours were way worn, but they looked OK, but after taking them off they were all fried and were worn down to the studs, we ruined the rotor hubs.

Hilly travel in hot weather, keep an eye on your hubs. Long hauls, take the grease gun with you for safety and keep an eye on the brake hub wheels for grease splatter. Hubs will spit grease out the front, but should never do so out the back. Keep em full regardless.

You could definately add a second set of brakes by getting a new axle with the brake mounts on it. Add disk hubs, calipers, and lines.

(gwnkids) · (gwnkids) **Join Date: Nov 2003** 07-21-2005, 6:38 PM

Douglas,
The shop recommended adding brakes to the rear axle, they wanted $ 1000.00 for the complete set up. I have torsion axles, the only question was the capacity of the resivor. I have the 21/2" square cupler. I decided lots of $$ now but the new boat will have brakes on all 4 wheels.

(load) · (load) **Join Date: Jul 2003** 07-22-2005, 8:05 AM

Had about the same price quote for the upgrade since I would need a new axle with the mounts. I think I may do it next spring since I only have minimal towing on flat ground till next summer. Small price to pay in relation to the cost of the toys!

(phatboypimp) · (phatboypimp) **Join Date: Apr 2005** 07-22-2005, 12:00 PM

Just a note on this topic. I used to sell the parts used in trailer manufacturing to OEM's and trailer repair shops. Since most axle's are one of three sizes 1,000lb, 3,500lb or 6,000lb, each size uses the same flange for mounting the brakes. Most decent trailer repair shops (this doesn't include your boat dealer) will be able to weld on a brake flange to your existing axle at little cost compared to buying a new axle with flanges installed. Just another option to consider.