I have been doing tons of research trying to find the modifictions that are going to truly work on my truck. FYI I have an 01 K2500 Burb with an 8.1L. The conclusion is tires are going up one size to 265/75/16 Bridgestone Revo load range E to maintain shopping mall garage parking and decent milage. I am going to crank the torsion bars slightly to level it. I have a rock crawler already so no need to go big. A Westers Tuning PCM set up to run 87 octane fuel with torque management reduced and tighter shifts on the trans, for a true 26 HP gain. When I asked about exhaust changes on the dyno he said don't bother you will not gain anything unless you do headers and change out the entire system including the cats. Then it came time to learn about intake systems. I refuse to use a K&N due to many reasons of which the two largest are the oil on the MAF issue and letting way too much dirt through. Yet I want to be able to open up the intake tube a little for high RPM HP gains. I found that the UPD intake setup will allow me to run the stock filter, and it is easy to build a cold air ram intake for the factory air box. Simple reliable setup yet meant to tow most anything all the way up to 12,000 lbs.
So I wrote a short story yet all I really wanted to do was to share this info regarding these air filter findings done by truck owners who just wanted to be more informed, not read up on what the aftermarket manufactures claim.
Air Filter Comparisions BTW If GM, Ford, Toyota, etc find an aftermarket air filter in the car they will note it in your files, possibly giving them a reason to void a warranty claim regarding driveability problems. At the least they say put it back to stock before they will work on it.