Tips for restoring gelcoat?

Got any good advice on restoring faded gelcoat?

Let's hear it.

Well, I think I tried it all, first I started with a 3M product that was marine rubbing compound and wax combo, didn't work, then I went to 3M rubbing compound, kind of worked, then I went to 1000 grit paper wet sanding, then 1500 grit, this has worked very well, and I plan to use a buffer and some rubbing compound tomorrow to bring some shine back. My boat was heavily oxidized, I took the decals off and it looked like somebody had put true blue decals on a baby blue boat, but now the boat is back to a nice blue color.

Stephen... and interesting approach, did that strip off the oxidation without damaging the gelcoat? Did you wax after the sanding I hope? I have a red boat that looks more pink/white than red. Get it wet and it looks good.

I did some research, and found that several people on the board have used this approach, and I had a post about it a month back. I am hoping to have some decals made, so I haven't waxed it yet. When you sand it, some of the color will come off, but it has turned out very well, it has gone from a powder/baby blue to a very pretty blue a shade lighter than royal blue. I keep a wet rag in one hand, get the area pretty wet, sand a small area, change sandpaper often. I can email you some pics if you want to see my progress, I have had a hard time posting on the board.

Stephen, can you send pics to me at mkanderson2@stthomas.edu I have the same problem with the transom on my 94 MC PS 205.

Just be careful when sanding not to go too deep and through the gelcoat.

I did this a few weeks ago, though my reasoning was different -- I had some scrapes from the previous owner loading the boat with sand on the bunks, and beaching the boat. The hull of the boat came out looking brand new...literally. The color turned from a brownish off-white (the boat is used to running around in Elsinore, you SoCal kids know what that's about) to brilliant white. Here is the link on epicmarine.com with my step-by-step.

http://www.cyclone-cj.com/forum/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=163

The link didn't work...you have to copy and paste it into your browser. Sorry about that.

Here are some tips for sanding:
The finer you go with sand paper the less work you have with the buffer. I start with 800 to 1000 and step up to 2000 before I think about buffing.

Let the paper do the work

Change the paper often

There are various sizes and shapes of sanding blocks designed for different contours

When sanding, must keep the area wet. I use a bucket of water with a little dish soap in it. Dunk a rag or sponge and let water constantly flow over the work area. The soap will slow the water, float the sanding debris out and make the paper last longer. (old trick from a past life).

Although Gel coat is very hard, treat the area you are working on like a complete surface, do not allow your self to over sand one area.


Anyone try Vertglas' "Gel Coat Restoration System"?
Reading the guide.... 3 step process. 1) Oxidation remover 2) Boat wash 3) Copolymer sealer (6 to 8 coats).

Well, I just first tried this stuff from IOSSO. It is a fiberglass "reconditioner". A friend of my Dad's who does a lot of fiberglass repair and work got it for me. Well, after about 10-15 minutes w/ a power buffer in one little spot I decided that it wasn't going to cut it. So I then pulled out the Vertglas "gel coat restoration system". I started on that process and you have to scrub w/ some polish/cleaner stuff that smells like toilet bowl cleaner. I didn't look like it was going to do the trick either. I scrubbed for a while but nothing seems to bring it back to what it should look like. I got one little spot looking pretty good..but it would take forever to do the entire boat like that... So, I'm going to break down and get the sanding blocks and give that a try. My gelcoat is pretty faded so we'll see how it all turns out. Here is what I got down in about an hour or so...



Maybe I'm just whimping out..but I expected this stuff to get the job done a lot quicker....

Well,so far the 3m product is working out pretty good.I still have to put a coat of wax on it.Will post pics when I think I got it done.

I've got a slightly off topic problem with my boat. For some reason the previousl owber resprayed the boat so given the use iy's now had it looks pretty tatty. From what I can see the gelcoat below is in reasonable condition so provided I can lift the paint, I could wet sand and buff the hull to make it look significantly better than it does now. The problem I face is - how can I remove the paint without damaging the gelocat, would paint stripper damage the gel? or do I need to sand the paint off which will take forever!!!!

levi- i'd go straight to the wet sanding for that much haze.

otherwise, if the fade isn't that bad i like 3m marine heavy duty compound. that and wool pads (look like mops) with a variable speed buffer. harbor freight has one online for $25 plus $5 shipping...a great deal for only $30. i just got done buffing mine it worked fine.....http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46507

the buffer and the wool pads make a big difference.

once you compound, you should use a polish or finer grit compound to remove swirls and leftover residue. that will deepen the finish and color and leave more of a mirror shine. then it's time to wax with whatever you want, wax doesn't last that long.

i'm thinking about wiping with 303 before the wax, anyone ever done that?

Salty - yeah....I'm picking up the sanding supplies after work. I hope that it looks good when I'm done cause now i'll have to get new decals also..... Well, wish me luck!

(Message edited by levi on May 06, 2004)

don't take the decals off unless you have to! the area under them will be like it was off the showroom floor. you can probably buff the decals to get them looking good again.

check my profile, i took those ocean pacific strips off of mine before i compounded. they were scratched in places from docks and stuff. i'm leaving them off. anyway, it wasn't very fun. i had to call in a neighbor with a very steady hand to use a razor blade on the yellow stripe. it all buffed out nicely though with no scratches. you'll definitely need a hair dryer or heat gun to get them off.

i'll post some before and after pics when i get home.

Here is a great article that walks you through the process.

http://aquaskier.com/articles/gel_coat_repair.htm

salty87 - Yeah...i definitely don't want to have to redecal, but I don't see how I could sand in between the letters? Maybe I'll try and sand everywhere the letters and then try to buff in between w/ a power buffer? I imagine I'll end up pulling them though...I just worry that I'll not be able to get the other gel coat to match the underneath and then I'll be peeved.

I took my decals, and after wet sanding, the faded blue around the decals began to match up, so in my case, you can't tell that the decals were ever there

before and afters

before and afters

more

i spent about 8 hours compounding (4 each side) and have since spent about 2 hours polishing with a lighter grit polish. next comes waxing, then boarding.

my crew...

pic might help

That turned out great, my boat is a few shades lighter than that, but was a thousand times worse to start with.

Where do I find 1000 and 1500 grit sand paper?
I checked the local auto parts store. can you tell me where you got yours.

(Message edited by rem_pss308 on May 10, 2004)

i used 3m heavy duty rubbing compound for the first pass, then an automotive polish called 1500 polish.

don't wet sand unless you have, you'll still have to at least polish after and might have to compound too if there are lots of swirls left behind.

you might need to hit a hobby place if the automotive stores don't carry any.

Salty's right, I would try the lighter stuff first, but it wasn't cutting it for me. I wet sanded last, I found 1000, 1500, and 2000 at Wal-Mart in the automotive section (cheapest) and also at Auto Zone.

Most Napa auto parts places have it I think...or at least they had up to 1500. You can also always find a auto paint supply store and they'll have everything you need.

So....I stopped by an auto paint store after work and they guy sent me away w/ the same stuff salty used...the 3M heavy duty rubbing compound. He said it should work really well...I hope he's right. I'll report back when i stops raining and I can give 'er a go........

A rotary buffer and Meguiar's Oxidation Removal Kit: Heavy Duty Oxidation Remover (compound), Polish, Wax