I think only nautique has this problem...The prop shaft breaks after the strut before the prop. Not sure if it is the 2:1 vdrive or the 17" prop that is the problem or both combined. Occurring on nautique g series boats from 2013 up to and including some 2017.
It's been happening since the first generation of the G so the 2:1 has nothing to do with it. Nautique said that it happens more often with the 550 engine and because people are running their boats WOT. They increased shaft diameter too which is supposed to have helped.
That 2015 Z-3 AVX was a killer at 3-4 GPH is that typical?
How did the dialed wave compare to the SL for twice the GPH?
Dialed wave of Z3 in my experience is 75% of the Dialed SE. Robert likely would share a similar opinion—but I️ will certainly let him speak for himself. It’s in the transition; the bottom is so firm and wide on the Supra wave. Landing, riding out landings is so strong. No soft spots. Push city.
Since SL and SE are similar waves (SL doing it with less weight), I️ think you could apply the transitive property.
My slammed SE450 is 4.5-5GPH. Robert runs the 575, thus more fuel. You can get 5gph on a big normally aspirated Supra at low elevations. Easily.
Z3 is a great boat. No doubt. But the big Supras are just stronger waves.
@johhny Supra Autowake sensors make it really easy to figure that out. Basically, when you experiment and find the best wave is say, 9 degrees of bow up, then you want to get the boat down without upsetting that angle. So lets say I add 400 lbs of lead to the rear, and now the front angle is at 10 or 11 and the wave isn't the best shape and you can't bring the bow down now with the front ballast is at 100%. Then you would want to move some lead forward.
So basically, the key is to find what the optimal pitch and roll is for the best wave, then add the lead so that when you are at that optimal angle, your ballast is all at 100% for the most efficient wave and use of ballast.
As another example, if you are getting the best wave, and your front is at 80% and rear at 100% to achieve that, then adding weight to rear and filling front to 100% is your best bet.
Make sense? Autowake helps you take the guess work out of a lot of this.
@blair, thanks. I am used to boats that surf amazing but not much to write home about with the WB wake. This boat looks like the WB wake is just as great. I always check on a new boat how it looks, but many times I don't post or include in a review, cuz it doesn't look good to me or I just didn't feel like I could get a clean wake. The SL was super simple, the wave was clean and rampy but looked like it had some lip to it, and the rooster tail was nice and small.
That is about as far as I go on a WB wake review. ;-)
Nice video Robert. I always love your videos. Question - you showed the wakeboard wake at 19 and 23-24. At 23-24 your caption says "stock ballast full". Where was the weight at 19? Was that with no ballast? Can you go slower than 23 with full ballast without the wakeboard wake washing out? Also, thanks for showing the ski wake since that is important to me too.
You know, I hate to say it, but I was vague in that part of the video because I don't quite remember, and I forgot to write that part down. I was just stoked to get to the surf wake, I am sorry.
My memory was that it was mostly full at 19, and all the way at 23. But I don't remember any issues with the wake washing out, that wake is super clean. I also asked Drew, he said that you can def get a clean wake under 23 with ballast full. My experience with Drew to date is that he works hard to be accurate. ;-)