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Posted at 5:15 PM on March 21, 2010
OK. I have tried to figure out what the two accessory switches are for on the boat we picked up last summer. The wires connected to each switch disappear into the maze behind the dash. They don't appear to be connected to anything that I can find. I was considering wiring one of them to a pump that I use to fill up the towable for the kids so I can stop removing the back seat and clipping the connection to the battery. My concern is the pump may draw to much power to use the accessory line? I am not an expert on this stuff so any input would be great. The other option I was considering was to wire the pump to the Perko battery selector switch. If I go this route should I wire a fuse inline between the pump and the selector switch? Thoughts on this approach? Hope this group takes off as there are always question that come up and it would be great to have a Sanger team to consult with.
Thanks in advance.
Posted at 9:54 PM on March 21, 2010
The pump for the towable probably draws maybe 10 or 15 amps. An accessory switch would normally be a 20 amp protected switch so no issue wiring the pump to it. Is their any open poles on the back of these Acc switches right now? And how many total poles does each switch have?
Posted at 7:07 PM on March 22, 2010
Thanks for the response. There are three poles on each switch all of which are used. Looks to be a positive and negative connection and then a colored wire coming out. Each switch using a different wire color. I actually got a hold of a guy at Sanger today. He explained that on my boat those accessory switches were provided to allow flexibility to add accessories. The lead from one switch I found with his direction behind the instrument panel and he said typically this would be wired to a heater unit which my boat does not have. The second lead is led aft and I found is located on starboard side near the transom and is wired to the second accessory switch. He said some people would wire this to a pump for a shower and such also which I don't have. So either of those would work except from what I have read the pump I have apparently draws 28 amps which is why it only comes with the alligator clips for direct connection to the battery. I don't think I should wire this to either of the accessory leads as they used 16 guage wire on those and I am fairly certain that this wouldn't be a good combination. I looked at a number of smaller powered pumps online but they all have received mixed reviews on the effectiveness and the one I have works really well and fast. So now I am back with wiring the postive pump wire to the Perko battery switch and the negative pump wire to the common ground. Any thoughts on this strategy? Any creative ideas on what other "gadgets" I could use those accessory switches for? I don't need a heater living in Arizona and even the transom shower doesn't seem to be of much use for us.
Posted at 9:22 PM on March 22, 2010
Well you could possibly use those acc switches for stereo, amps or other stuff like the shower or heater, but certainly not for that pump if it draws that much amperage. You could wire in a 30 amp relay and use one of the acc switches to turn the relay on and off though. I'm not srue about wiring it into the perko though. Have to think about that one. I think it would be ok. Whatever you do just fuse or relay so you have a failsafe if anything gets hot.
Posted at 7:15 PM on March 23, 2010
Crawled around the boat a little more tonight. So this is the plan but I would like your thoughts as well as I am no expert at this stuff and don't want the firepit to be inside my boat! I am going to wire the positive lead for the pump to the Common post on the Perko battery switch with a 30 Amp inline fuse as close to the battery switch as possible. There appears to be two main ground points on the engine block. On the port side the main battery negative line is grounded there. On the starboard side ground point there is a couple of what look to be 12 or 14 guage black wires only that I assume are grounded here. So I would run the negative wire from the pump to the starboard side ground point. Using this strategy with the battery switch in the off position which is how I store the boat in the garage there is no power even going to the pump. With the 30 amp inline fuse just outside the positive connection to the battery switch if more than that tries to go through the wire it should pop and prevent any overheating of the wire. I am planning to use the original wire that came with the pump that is connected to the alligator clips so I am assumming this should be adequate.
Posted at 7:27 PM on March 23, 2010
So that all sounds fine but how are you switching the pump on and off? Will you have to move the Perko each time you use the pump. I might want a sepaerate switch for the pump myself, instead of using the Perko as the pump switch.
Posted at 7:57 PM on March 23, 2010
The pump has its own switch built in so that will not be a problem. Are you familiar with the grounding spot I am referring to? I realize our boats may be slightly different but they all may be similar in this way. I want to make sure it is grounded properly.
Posted at 8:01 PM on March 23, 2010
On a seperate note. Do you wake surf at all? We started out with a Hyperlite long board last summer which has been great and has been easy to get everyone up on but I would like to pick up another one that will hopefully be a little faster and easier to keep up with the wake. Also looking for one with a thinner profile as I only have one surfboard location on my racks and would like to get the new surfboard in one of the open wakeboard rack spaces.
Posted at 8:05 PM on March 23, 2010
Nope. No wakesurfing behind our boat but occasionaly behind someone else's. The best place you can ground would be either to a battery negative terminal or the engine block, either will work fine.
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