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Old     (romamg)      Join Date: Dec 2017       08-09-2018, 6:33 PM Reply   
So having some serious issues with loading and trailer bunks.

Bought the boat, was told bunks were just replaced which do in fact looks like they were.

The rear of one is mangled like my wife ran into it loading the boat, but cant really see how that would happen. Yesterday at the lake noticed one of the 2 that support the bow was cracked in half, so now I can see pressure treated limber was not used.

So now to loading. I have tried it with the fenders just level with the water, and fenders an inch or so above the water. No way with them an inch or so above water, the bow ends up below the roller. When it level with water it works, but have to power load and really dont like that. If I get the bow where it need to be, I have to stay on throttle and run up hook up and winch it tight. Major pain.

Does it seem like these to issues could be related? Best lumber for bunks? Anything work better than bunk carpet?
Old     (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       08-09-2018, 6:37 PM Reply   
I have my wheel guards about 3-4 under the water to load and unload mine. I can float all the way up to the roller. Never have to even use the motor to get me on or off the trailer ever.
Old     (romamg)      Join Date: Dec 2017       08-09-2018, 7:15 PM Reply   
I guess I'm gonna give that a shot. Everytime I see one of these questions everyone is like "your to deep'.
Old     (tre)      Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: WI       08-09-2018, 8:25 PM Reply   
If the launch is deep enough, you can float on/off the trailer but this takes two people. One to drive the truck and the other to pull ropes tied to the front and rear of the boat with the goal of centering the boat on the trailer bunks. You do have to be careful you are not so deep the eye on the boat goes over the roller. You also have to be careful the boat is centered as you pull it out. When the boat is floating, it can easily float off center of the trailer. Frankly, it is much easier to drive it on and off the trailer but you do not want to be too shallow either. You'll get used to your boat. Sounds like you have some trailer repair work first. I believe it is normal to use non-treated lumber because you do not want the chemicals from treated lumber to get in the lake. Our boat lift has non-treated limber for bunks with carpet over them and we have to replace them every once in a while. Our wood pier also uses non-treated lumber and so does everyone else on our lake (of over 1,000 piers which are all wood).
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       08-10-2018, 1:07 PM Reply   
I have to drive mine up onto the trailer if the trailer is in too far you cant get the safety bar on the front and it sits like crap.
Old     (romamg)      Join Date: Dec 2017       08-10-2018, 3:05 PM Reply   
Anyone have any experience with this stuff?
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Old     (FastR3DN3K)      Join Date: Jun 2013       08-11-2018, 11:12 AM Reply   
I've got a broken bunk on my trailer from my buddy attempting to load mine, but mine appear to be non-treated as well. And mine are all original bunks from Boatmate. But I've found that it's better to be a bit deeper than you think you need. If you're sliding onto the bunks before you're at least halfway onto the trailer, you probably need to be a bit deeper. There's not set depth to get the trailer because every ramp is different, but the steeper the ramp the easier it is and less you'll need to back into the water. Generally, mine contacts the bunks about 2-3' away from the roller. This is close enough for it to center up easily, stops the boat from a slow idle to keep it from hitting the trailer/roller, and still easy enough that I can winch it up the rest of the way without too much effort.
Old     (will5150)      Join Date: Oct 2002       08-11-2018, 3:15 PM Reply   
Bunks wear out- I replaced mine a few years ago- pressure treated lumber- ALWAYS. Stainless hardware including the staples to redo the carpet- It's an easy fix.
Old     (Eurobound)      Join Date: Jul 2018       08-14-2018, 8:12 AM Reply   
I had issues with loading and unloading until I bought an adjustable hitch and lowered the tongue 4 inches so that the trailer is level. Helped a lot. I used to back up until my truck (gmc 3500hd) tailpipe was just above the water - now I'm not anywhere near that far in anymore.
Old     (jonblarc7)      Join Date: Jul 2006       08-14-2018, 8:27 AM Reply   
I have used this stuff with really good results. You only need to apply it to your bunks a couple times a season. It really does make a big difference with letting the boat slide on with out having to power it on as much. My boat is an 06 supra 24V, the nose dips way down in the front. So you have to be real shallow to get the nose over the front roller and with a 24 foot boat it used to take a lot of throttle. The Slydz spray lets it just glide right on.


https://www.overtons.com/product/det...16-oz&i=314709
Old     (srock)      Join Date: Mar 2002       Today, 5:51 AM Reply   
You need to pay attention each time until you figure out your specific conditions. On steeper ramps I too have issues with the bow position on the front roller and I did not want to drop my ball any further. In my case I had to load deeper then pull forward while the boat was a foot from the bow roller then power on the last bit. Also having wet bunks helped.

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