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Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-06-2017, 4:20 PM Reply   
Good afternoon,

I purchased a 2000 21v Tige Monday. Mercruiser 350 black scorpion 330hp with 400 hours. I ran the boat initially with no issues. Second time out trans fluid light comes on... check trans, milky oil. Flushed it out. All other fluids are good.

Third time out no issues with trans. Boat overheats, i never let it get above 190. I shut it down, checked water intake, all good, let it cool, went for another spin. Hot again, killed it. I went to ease in and the boat started, sputtered, died. Wouldn't fire after that. Took it home and let it cool. I removed the fuel cap to see if the gas tank vent was blocked, didn't notice any air being sucked down but it was noisy around me. Backed it into my local lake, fired up and ran fine.

Before i run it again i want to do all of the maintenance top to bottom, and most importantly, the cooling system.

1. oil change
2. thermostat
3. water pump
4. impellar
5. vent hose

I need help with two things... part numbers, and what other maintenance do you suggest?

Thank you,
Sam

Last edited by spearce63; 08-06-2017 at 4:22 PM.
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       08-06-2017, 4:38 PM Reply   
Go to skidim.com and they will hook you up with the rights parts.
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       08-06-2017, 5:19 PM Reply   
Spark plugs. Cap & rotor. Maybe plug wires if they're original. Check all the hoses for cracks. If impeller is damaged you need to find where the chunks went and clean them out. If transmission fluid was milky hopefully it's easy to find where the contamination came from. In my experience, old fluid that was never changed goes from dark red to stinky and black. If it's milky, it's probably mixing with something. Keep an eye on it for sure. Also you may have separate transmission and v-drive fluid, so replace both if you do.
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-06-2017, 6:07 PM Reply   
Definitely ignition, good catch.

My thought with the oil was to change it once more so it's back to clean. If it turns milky again than i've got a leak to look for. Thoughts?

Thank you,
Sam
Old    D (infinitysurf)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-06-2017, 6:26 PM Reply   
Usually when v-drive gets milky, its cause water got in....and it takes multiple changes for it to be clean, one will not do it. It could have been that too much water was in bilge at some point and it got into the vent, turning it milky. If that was not the case, you are leaking in somewhere.
Did it sit for a while before you bought it? Maybe combo of bad gas....and needing the plugs/wires/cap/rotor.
Likely the overheat was impeller or thermostat tho....when you get impeller out, you probably want to backflush your system really well to make sure nothing is in there, no blockages, etc. If it sat a while, could have gotten brittle or if they sit in same position for long periods, they wont work right.
Bakesonline also has parts you will need.
Good luck...do it all right now and you will thank yourself later
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-06-2017, 6:39 PM Reply   
Boat had a total of about 7 hours in the last year. Crazy.

is there a how to on the back flush?
Old    Rick (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       08-07-2017, 7:15 AM Reply   
I have seen gear box's (v-drive) get milky just from moisture in the air and it drawing moist air ( the bildge is pretty moist ) in as the gear box cools down .
How hot are these supposed to run ? I don't have digits on m temp gauge just ok zone then red zone . But I know most fuel injected engines run around 185-195 . Maybe someone else with a Black Scorpion could chime in a say what temps they are seeing .

Everything that is suggestion here are good ideas a full service is always the best way to go when buying a used boat .
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       08-07-2017, 9:13 AM Reply   
160-180F is the normal operating range for gas inboard engines.
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       08-07-2017, 9:44 AM Reply   
Ohh one more: serpentine belt. And mercruiser will sell you one for hundreds of dollars, but you can get same length at an auto parts store for 1/4 of the price.
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-07-2017, 4:36 PM Reply   
Okay, just placed my order. $250 in parts. Need to get oil. Should be a fun week.
Old    D (infinitysurf)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-07-2017, 6:30 PM Reply   
Temp on most boats run 165-170
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-07-2017, 7:14 PM Reply   
$250... more like $400 lol. forgot a few things. Excited to see what happens. Need to move the bilge pump. I'm taking on a little bit of water too. Any idea what to look for? it's not bad, maybe an inch every couple hours?
Old    Jay Wedsted (jbird)      Join Date: Jun 2011       08-08-2017, 3:31 AM Reply   
Shaft seal packing/adjustment is probably where the water is coming from!
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       08-08-2017, 4:30 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbird View Post
Shaft seal packing/adjustment is probably where the water is coming from!


Agreed
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-18-2017, 3:52 PM Reply   
Any idea where the thermostat is?

All plugs changed. Plug wires changed. Haven't had the courage to do the distributor cap yet, will get that tomorrow. Water filter changed. Water pump pulled. Impeller is new. Reinstalled.

Just looking for the impeller. About to do an oil change.
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-18-2017, 5:01 PM Reply   
Disregard. Thermostat is changed. Oil is draining. Going to let it drain overnight. Water test tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Old    Rick (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       08-19-2017, 5:37 AM Reply   
good luck keep up updated
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-19-2017, 10:54 AM Reply   
This is driving me nuts. Oil changed this morning. All looked well. On the lake now and the gauge is still reading hot. It climbs/drops rather quickly. Boat runs much smoother.

Could it be a bad gauge/sensor?

Any idea what to do next?
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-19-2017, 12:27 PM Reply   
Any chance the impeller is backwards?
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       08-19-2017, 12:50 PM Reply   
Maybe PO shredded an impeller and didn't get all the pieces out of the lines. Disconnect lines downstream from the impeller and see if there are chunks in there.
Old    D (infinitysurf)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-19-2017, 9:40 PM Reply   
Bakesonline.com will have the parts you need. Either the impeller is not right (you said you re-installed it) could impeller be brittle, it should be soft and flexible... thermostat could be bad....some kind of clog in the system (like the impeller pieces or other blockage)
You can flush it by popping a hose loose and putting hose on it....I would remove the impeller and flush also (do you have a flush kit on boat or way to fake lake?)

You mentioned you are getting water in bilge....could be shaft seal of course cause that happens a lot on those boats, but I wonder if it was not winterized right and maybe something is cracked? That could also cause overheat and water in bilge.You should figure this out before you run too much, know that sucks since summer is leaving now but overheat can mess up an engine really bad, really fast. Good luck
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-20-2017, 7:29 AM Reply   
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000M...3AL&ref=plSrch

Do these things work?
Old    Detox (bass10after)      Join Date: Feb 2010       08-20-2017, 8:41 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by spearce63 View Post
yes they do work great i use the same style. I agree with previous poster to look for pieces of old impeller blocking something if its running hot. Were there vanes missing from the previous impeller when you pulled it? some boats have a strainer to catch pieces down stream start by pulling hoses from exit of freshwater intake and work your way back.. if the t stat was changed, also verify corect t stat with oem dealer for part number.
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-20-2017, 11:36 AM Reply   
It was the correct stat. 160* mercruiser original.

I'm going to order the toilet plunger and do some more work on it tomorrow. Any idea which hoses to pull and where to put water to it?
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-20-2017, 12:37 PM Reply   
Also, with the thermostat in, how do you flush the engine? The waterflow would be closed off.

Still new to this, sorry for the questions.
Old    Vee Drive (rexlex01)      Join Date: Mar 2010       08-20-2017, 5:50 PM Reply   
you might also want to remove your block drain plugs and stick a wire into the hole to see if its full of sand, lake gunk or impeller parts.

Manual - http://www.boatfix.com/merc/install/gas/86017800.pdf


Google - https://www.google.com/search?client...UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Last edited by rexlex01; 08-20-2017 at 5:57 PM.
Old    Nacho (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       08-21-2017, 12:22 PM Reply   
confirm you re-installed the water pump how it came off. I've put them back on backwards on a d drive. slightly more difficult to do on a v, but not much.
pull the hose off t-stat housing, put the intake side in a bucket of water. confirm that its pumping in the right direction. also, mark your pump so you don't make the same mistake again. disconnect center distributor wire and spin the engine over. should be obvious when its pump correctly. will make bubbles if not.

sounds like the boat sat for a while before you bought it. impeller was dried out and it took 3 trips to lake for it to disintegrate. impeller pieces won't make it past t-stat so focus on between water intake and stat.

flush: you typically don't flush inboards unless they have a saltwater flush system. in the absence of a flush system (wouldn't help you anyway) you're pulling individual hoses and checking them. check trans cooler. for some reason impeller pieces like to go backwards

Last edited by denverd1; 08-21-2017 at 12:27 PM.
Old    Jman (jmanolinsky)      Join Date: Dec 2005       08-22-2017, 7:23 AM Reply   
Check the easy stuff first. Make sure that your engine is actually running hot. It could be a bad sending unit, gauge or even a loose connection.
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-22-2017, 5:59 PM Reply   
Checked it with a infrared thermometer. She's hot.

I've had to put the boat on the back burner for a few days. House got hit by lightning Sunday. Got one tv, internet, dog fence, well, and one computer (that I've found so far). Dogs fence was the biggest pita... burnt the damn wire that was buried in the yard, had to retrench the whole thing. Busted my main while doing the trenching of course haha.

I'm back on track now. Hope to have the boat stripped back down tomorrow. Everyone do a little rain dance for me to keep the rain away for a couple days.

I've also found that my boat cover isn't waterproof and rain was collecting in the bow, drained it using the center plug and boom, no water. Looks like no leak which is good news. I'm ready to get this thing fixed and in dry storage.

Hope everyone is doing well... been a fun few days!
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-24-2017, 3:33 PM Reply   
I believe it's done boys and girls.

Changed out the impeller and water pump tonight. Took me thirty minutes.

I ran the boat on my overpriced toilet plunger for about 5 minutes. I noticed a little bit of water out of the exhaust. More of a mist than a flow. Changed impeller and pump, let it run. Still running now. Boat is climbing to 175 on the gauge and drops rapidly to 100. Slowly climbs, drops as soon as it hits 175. Water is PUMPING out of exhaust now. All looks good.

Watching motor with a infrared thermometer. Can't find anything over 145.
Old     (saberworks)      Join Date: Sep 2010       08-24-2017, 3:52 PM Reply   
Awesome, glad you got it fixed!
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-24-2017, 3:54 PM Reply   
You have no idea how excited I am to load this thing down with family and friends. Running in circles until it overheats gets old.
Old    David Lucas (Familyrig)      Join Date: Aug 2016       08-24-2017, 9:24 PM Reply   
Very good to hear. May want to change oil again depending on how warm you were getting the motor.
Old    Nacho (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       08-25-2017, 6:33 AM Reply   
sweet! have fun
Old    Detox (bass10after)      Join Date: Feb 2010       08-25-2017, 7:44 AM Reply   
nice work, glad you found the culprit!
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-25-2017, 3:27 PM Reply   
Boat ran great.

4 things occurred that are questionable.

I noticed the boat is showing idling at 2000rpms and climbs to 5k very easily and not under full power while cold. Once it warms up this goes away. Idles at 1000 or less and nearly impossible to hit 5k. Now the motor does not seem to actually be running at those rpms when cold. The idle sounds the same cold or hot, 1k or 2k.

Secondly, when hit wake the rpms will bump up. The prop is not coming out of the water.

I get an alarm when I go from high speed to drastic stop. One alarm and it goes away.

I'm noticing a little bit of steam out of the back when I do a drastic stop.

Thank you.
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       08-25-2017, 8:06 PM Reply   
Carb float could be sticking.
Old    D (infinitysurf)      Join Date: Apr 2017       08-25-2017, 9:11 PM Reply   
Noticed you said that temp would go to 175.....then down to 100 and climb again. This is not normal at least on my boat or any other boat I have had. Your temp should max out around the 170-175 mark, but should not go down drastically. My boat will run all day at 168 and not change once it warms up.
Perhaps you have bad guage connection? I saw that cause you mentioned the idle thing too and that engine pitch does not change but shows different rpm at idle. You should hear the difference in motor if idling at 2000rpm and if you put in gear, it would "cluck" like hell (normal idle should be 700-800rpm depending on engine So guessing you got corrosion or maybe guages going bad? Or if guage is ok, you may still have a bad thermostat...or both?

When you say "hit wake the rpms will bump up"...do you mean you have cruise set while someone is surfing and when you hit chop or rollers from your own wake the engine rpms will go up? Mine will rev a little (prob GPS speed keeping up) and that is normal...

Important thing is you are out having fun now....but those may be a couple things to check
Old    Sam Pearce (spearce63)      Join Date: Apr 2017       09-09-2017, 2:30 PM Reply   
Well gentlemen, boat is good. Still have an issue with the rpm gauge but motor is spot on. Need to flush the trans oil a couple more times. Boat is in covered storage. Pray it makes it through Irma. We are boarded up and have enough supplies for a week or so with no power.

Wish us luck. Hope everyone is prepared. Have a good weekend.
Old    Rick (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       09-11-2017, 8:53 AM Reply   
Good luck surviving Irma !!!! hope all is well for you and the family

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