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Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       05-30-2017, 7:11 AM Reply   
Hey guys wanted to get your thoughts on a few problems/things I've noticed on our 2015 SE450.

1) Some pretty decent electrical issues. Very last day of last season something happened to where one battery would run the motor and nothing else, the other battery would run everything else but not the motor. No biggie, it was the end of the season so just had the electrical issue dealt with when I took it in to have it winterized under warranty. Fast forward to this past weekend. Having a lot of weird electrical issues. Ballast will fill and dump constantly. I'll fill to desired wakeboard weight, half way through the set look down and the ballast is almost full. Then I can't get it to dump. Also stereo is mostly inoperable from the drivers seat. Have to operate from head unit by seats.

2) This may just be my ignorance to the 450/prop combo/boat weight but I had the prop swapped and I'm kicking myself because I can't remember exactly which prop number it was but it was a big upgrade. Even with just a few people on board the boat won't plane out at full ballast, hell it won't get over 14-15 mph. before the swap the boat wouldn't get over 13 mph at 60% ballast. This past weekend I had 12 people on board for a late evening sesh. Too many people for a good set but we were in the party mindset. Boat wouldn't reach speed with the 12 people and 20% ballast in the rear an 40% in the front to help plane out. Had to dump all ballast to reach wakeboard speeds. Does this sound right for a 450 and large prop or is something wrong here. Like I said, can't tell if something is wrong or if I'm just ignorant and this sounds normal.

3) Gel coat cracks coming off the front chrome vents. Pics attached. No clue how or when these got there but I just noticed them the other day. I wash the whole thing down after every time out so I feel like they are very recent. The larger ones appear to have stemmed from in line with the bolt.

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This one just gives you an idea of where the cracks are(Edge of the silver vent)
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Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       05-30-2017, 7:17 AM Reply   
What prop is on there now?
Also those cracks you need to take up with the dealer ASAP.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       05-30-2017, 7:30 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
What prop is on there now?
Also those cracks you need to take up with the dealer ASAP.
Pretty positive its the Acme 2079. Can't check because its 2 hours away at the lake
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       05-30-2017, 7:33 AM Reply   
That's a 12" pitch so it should be low enough to get you on plane. Weird.
Old    RB (boardman74)      Join Date: Jul 2012       05-30-2017, 8:17 AM Reply   
Your boat with 12 people and light ballast(20%) and a tractor prop should be able to get to wakeboard speed without a problem. Something is going on. Wrong prop, motor not producing power, etc.

If your under warranty let the dealer sort out the electrical. With these new fancy systems they are all controlled by a brain/computer box. Without proper software you trying to troubleshoot it is nearly impossible. Even if you don't have warranty dealer is really your only option. This is a by product of all the new fancy gadgets and touch screens. When they fail or have issues you really have no option but to take them to the dealer.

Gelcoat cracks are very common across the manufacturers. A lot of times they do originate from a screw hole if not properly chamfered. Usually they do not indicate a structural problem and are just cosmetic. But they are ugly and they do suck. Part of the problem is that fiberglass by its nature flexes and gel coat is more rigid and does not flex nearly as much.
Old    Rick Tinker (rickt)      Join Date: May 2002       05-30-2017, 8:27 AM Reply   
Mizelenik,

Our sales manager for the southeast is located in your hometown and should be able to offer some good guidance on getting you rolling. Reach out to Jon @jallen@skierschoice.com or private email me back at rtinker@skierschoice.com and I will have him reach out to you. Sorry for these issues,

Rick
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       05-30-2017, 8:32 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickt View Post
Mizelenik,

Our sales manager for the southeast is located in your hometown and should be able to offer some good guidance on getting you rolling. Reach out to Jon @jallen@skierschoice.com or private email me back at rtinker@skierschoice.com and I will have him reach out to you. Sorry for these issues,

Rick
Hey Rick,

Thanks I will reach out to Jon. The only real concern I have is whether I'm losing power somewhere within the motor. Cracks happen and the electrical isn't too bad.

thanks for reaching out!
Old    D.F.T.R. Josh (downfortheride)      Join Date: Jun 2005       05-30-2017, 8:37 AM Reply   
Quote:
Rick Tinker (rickt) Join Date: May 2002 Today, 9:27 AM Reply Quick Reply
Mizelenik,

Our sales manager for the southeast is located in your hometown and should be able to offer some good guidance on getting you rolling. Reach out to Jon @jallen@skierschoice.com or private email me back at rtinker@skierschoice.com and I will have him reach out to you. Sorry for these issues,

Rick
Skiers choice for the win.
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       05-30-2017, 8:38 AM Reply   
Wonder if the electrical issue is causing the engine to go into limp mode and not produce full power?
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       05-30-2017, 8:55 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
Wonder if the electrical issue is causing the engine to go into limp mode and not produce full power?
Could be. I took Rick's instructions and have emailed him and Jon. I wouldn't call it full limp mode. Seems more like 70% mode lol. What's weird to me is with heavy weight the RPM's don't peg trying to reach speed/plane, they kind of just hover around 3800-4200
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       05-30-2017, 9:10 AM Reply   
Yep, sounds like limp mode
Old    Chattwake (chattwake)      Join Date: Jan 2010       05-31-2017, 4:17 AM Reply   
What octane gas are you running? Anything below 91 and the engine can start pulling timing.
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       05-31-2017, 4:55 AM Reply   
Problem is that his engine revs are being cut, at which point it is cutting power too. Using premium is highly recommended, but I feel something else is causing his problems and not just fuel octane.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       05-31-2017, 6:45 AM Reply   
It has never had anything other than premium and usually every third tank is pure premium no ethanol
Old    Shane Morris (smorris7)      Join Date: Nov 2013       06-14-2017, 7:50 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stazi View Post
Problem is that his engine revs are being cut, at which point it is cutting power too. Using premium is highly recommended, but I feel something else is causing his problems and not just fuel octane.


Was this resolved? Sounds like high pressure fuel pump going bad.
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       06-14-2017, 8:01 AM Reply   
I don't think he has come back to report on his findings.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       06-14-2017, 9:18 AM Reply   
Boats currently getting a software reflash and checked out. Was an extra week before I could get it in. I'll report back with any news I find out.
Old    DTB (DatTexasBoy)      Join Date: Aug 2012       06-14-2017, 11:08 AM Reply   
Sounds like your in good hands now that Rick has pointed you in the right direction.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       06-14-2017, 11:53 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by DatTexasBoy View Post
Sounds like your in good hands now that Rick has pointed you in the right direction.
For sure. Just got an email from Jon(my local SC rep). He popped in and did the reflash and loaded the new vision dash software himself.

As for the power/planing issue, he made tweaks to the system, along with the swell system and wakeplate. He said this should help a good bit with performance. He also recommended moving from the 2079 to an OJ 945 or Acme 2775 in the future because they fit better with the Ford torque curve. I will do this once the 2079 has served its duties... or maybe sooner if I feel like it lol.

Big shout out to Skiers Choice, Rick and Jon for the help!
Old    Nacho (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       06-14-2017, 11:54 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by smorris7 View Post
Was this resolved? Sounds like high pressure fuel pump going bad.
same symptoms mine had. both fuel pumps replaced with low hours (350) on both

I'm NOT saying the pumps are bad, just identical symptoms
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       06-14-2017, 11:58 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
same symptoms mine had. both fuel pumps replaced with low hours (350) on both

I'm NOT saying the pumps are bad, just identical symptoms
I'll keep this in mind if the problem persists. I'd hate to think the pumps went out with 100 hours though
Old    Anastazi Sarigiannis (Stazi)      Join Date: Sep 2011       06-14-2017, 12:32 PM Reply   
Get the 945. I got it on my Craz and it is a towing beast!
Old    DTB (DatTexasBoy)      Join Date: Aug 2012       06-14-2017, 6:19 PM Reply   
Yes I run the 945 on my SE perfect fit
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-06-2017, 8:57 AM Reply   
Update: Well since the new software was installed on the vision system the boat has only worked 100% two non consecutive days. Main problem has been the stereo being uncontrollable. Touch screen freezing up. Perfect pass has been cutting off and on mid pull, and the newest addition to the list came on the 4th when the boat went in to some sort of "limp mode" and won't run over 3500 Rpms. Which was about 10.7 at surf weight and 14.5 at empty.

Wasn't able to get it off the dock and in to the dealer yet, but hopefully will this weekend. Anyone had similar nonstop electrical problems with their Supra? Skier's Choice has been very helpful in responding and even sent out a rep to perform the vision updates and such, but the boat essentially hasn't worked right all season and is becoming very frustrating and time consuming.

Hopefully my next update will be positive lol
Old     (CPanner)      Join Date: May 2015       07-06-2017, 10:07 AM Reply   
I'd love to jump in a say "Should have bought a Nautique", but there's a bunch of recent quality control issues over on the PN forum. And I'm on my 3rd linc screen myself.

I think overall these boat manufacturers have an attitude that they can put out a sub par product and for some reason we just take it and say oh well they are hand made, of course there will be issues. F that. If we are going to be paying $150k for something it dam well better be perfect. I'm not going to accept anything less and neither should you. These manufacturers shouldn't be praised for fixing a bunch of problems after you get a boat that doesn't work. They should be shamed for even allowing it off the assembly line.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-06-2017, 10:20 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPanner View Post
I'd love to jump in a say "Should have bought a Nautique", but there's a bunch of recent quality control issues over on the PN forum. And I'm on my 3rd linc screen myself.

I think overall these boat manufacturers have an attitude that they can put out a sub par product and for some reason we just take it and say oh well they are hand made, of course there will be issues. F that. If we are going to be paying $150k for something it dam well better be perfect. I'm not going to accept anything less and neither should you. These manufacturers shouldn't be praised for fixing a bunch of problems after you get a boat that doesn't work. They should be shamed for even allowing it off the assembly line.
I'm beginning to feel this way as well. Luckily I didn't pay the $150K, but the $100K headache doesn't feel any better
Old    Chattwake (chattwake)      Join Date: Jan 2010       07-07-2017, 6:27 AM Reply   
But have you considered an MB?

I kid I kid. Good luck with the boat fix.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-07-2017, 2:22 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by chattwake View Post
But have you considered an MB?

I kid I kid. Good luck with the boat fix.
I should have bought a Wake Tractor!

At least then I can't be butt hurt about price vs Time spent fixing it lolol

I'm sure I'll be back on the water before I know it, terrorizing shorelines, anchored DD's and toons pulling tubers
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-20-2017, 6:38 AM Reply   
Update Time: Boat has been with my dealer for 2 weeks now. They have not been able to figure it out. SC recommends I take it to another dealer of which one is 3 hours one way and the other is 4 hours one way. Also they have 3 week lead times, so it looks like I'm just going to pick it back up and hope it works more days than it doesn't for the rest of the season. Then hopefully it will get figured out in the Fall.

Half a boats better than no boat right?
Old    Scott (chilidog)      Join Date: Dec 2007       07-22-2017, 8:14 AM Reply   
My vision system was getting testy this past weekend too and wouldn't activate the ballast to drain. Had to do 2 hard restarts where i had the key to run, engine was off, and killed the battery. this fixed my ballast issue (x2). i'm sure in the reflash they did this but in case some random issues appear try it, worked for me for minor issues. Also seems like the more I mess with it with when the engine is off the more it gets confused. Virtually no issues when it's running so maybe the progressive voltage drop when not being charged messes with it. Love the vision system otherwise but sorry to hear about all your issues. i've been fairly impressed with Supra so far on my 13.
Old    Robert Garcia (ragboy)      Join Date: Aug 2007       07-23-2017, 7:50 PM Reply   
I have seen issues like that in the past, and on this boat, and both were related to voltage dropping. Those systems can just get VERY temperamental when voltage gets lower.

My 17 SE 550 was a photoshoot boat and already had 250 hours on it and when I had it out the stereo and connections seemed to glitch at times and required a hard restart. Then, on the 3rd time out, later in the day the boat started surging around 3500 rpm. Basically when going to surf with a full boat it would get up to 3500 rpm and then drop rpm and then back up and surge, it wouldn't get up past 3500 to get the surfer up to speed.

Anyway, I found that if I made sure I put my battery switch on 1+2 at the beginning of the day, NONE of these issues ever happened. We were on a 7k road trip and I pretty much forgot about it until we got home and then it did it again. I checked, and my son only put the battery on 2. I switched to 1+2 and the surging went away, without even the restart. Since then I put both batteries on one of these over night, these things work great to fully charge and tell you if a battery is no good.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Topping them both off, and then always going to 1+2 completely resolved all glitchiness and I have never seen the surge/3500 again. I have put well over 100 hours on the SE this season.

I try not to take my boat to the dealer unless I absolutely have to, and have worked through things like this in the past. Voltage is just a huge issue with the new systems.

I have no idea if that helps you, I hope it does. I plan on doing a more thorough check of the batteries, my hunch is just that one needs to be replaced, but using that Schumacher to slow charge it and maintain it to 100 over 1 night, seemed to really do the trick.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-24-2017, 7:46 AM Reply   
Thanks for the replies! I have definitely done more hard restarts than I can even count in the past two months. I usually have to do 4-5 each outing to get the touch function of the screen working.

Robert I'm definitely going to pick up that charger and see if that helps trim the problems down. Your comment about what batteries you have selected is interesting. I was told by my dealer to only run 1 or 2 but never both. SC told me they recommend only running 1 unless it goes out. So I'm so lost on what battery configuration to run. You spend so much time on your boats that I trust you as much as the others I've heard haha

Boat ran decent this weekend. Stereo worked for about two out of 6 hours Saturday. Did not work at all Sunday. Had the usual zero off cutting in and out, ballasts only glitched once or twice and I had to hard restart 7-8 times throughout the weekend to keep the screen working. Did have a new one as well. Swell plates seemed to cut in and out three times in a row. Surfer was out there, wave washed out and reformed three times quickly.

It works enough to get us through the summer I think. After that I'll decide where to take it. Anyone have experience with Skiers Marine in AL or Premier Watersports in Knoxville? These are the two I was told I needed to take it to since my dealer couldn't figure it out. Both are 3-4 hours one way for me. But our lake house is halfway between home and Skier's marine
Old    Robert Garcia (ragboy)      Join Date: Aug 2007       07-24-2017, 8:07 AM Reply   
Well, I would agree that you should always only one 1 battery. But I have experienced voltage issues on 3 different boats, 2 tiges, and this SE. The voltage issue can occur for one of these reasons:

1. The normal draw of all that you do, which includes blasting the stereo is drawing more amps than the charging system is providing so over time voltage drops which then causes a myriad of issues, like you are seeing. General bugginess. This could be caused by the alternator not working well.

2. The same as above, but not the alternator, one or more batteries are not working up to spec.

3. Same as 1, but you have added amps or bigger pumps or some other regular draw that is out of spec of what that alternator was supposed to provide.

There are probably more things to list, but those have been my experiences, we spend hundreds of hours surfing every season.

In my personal situation, I have seen all 3 of the above and going to 1+2 will fix the issue, and if that works, then well keep doing 1+2 until it gets cold then take it to the dealer.

So fully charge your batteries over night and then do 1+2, if that works for most of the day, but late in the day you start getting the bugginess, then that means both your batteries may be wack or 2 or 3 above. For us, when we charged them, and go to 1+2, the problem has been solved, and then we don't have to charge the boat overnight since going to 1+2. On one boat, where the problem was the load from all the pumps and stereo, going to 1+2 worked until late in the day and then we had to top off the batteries every night. But since on our SE, when I do 1+2, the next day we come out, all has worked GREAT, even on multi-day camping trips, I am confident my alternator is keeping up with my load. So I just need to take the time to figure out which of my batteries is not working right and replace it.

Basically 1+2 should create a parallel circuit that will give you the voltage of the most charged battery and capacity of not just one, but both. So if you have 10 AH left on one battery and 10 on the other, in 1+2 you have 20 AH.

Just make sure you don't leave your boat stereo jamming with the motor off while swimming or chilling on the shore for 2 long, cuz you have nothing to back up to. If you feel really nervous about that situation, then also pick up a good jump starter, Schumacher also makes some great ones, there is a lot of crap out there. Make sure you have that FULLY charged before going to the lake, and don't forget it in the truck. ;-)

With the jumper, you will have the backup and piece of mind. So try 1+2 at all times, and see if the issue goes away. I am well skilled in avoiding the dealer when the sun is out.
Old    Robert Garcia (ragboy)      Join Date: Aug 2007       07-24-2017, 8:24 AM Reply   
oh, one more thing, get 2 of those chargers, they are cheap, and then you can charge both of them overnight. I have used those for years and you should be safe leaving them plugged in. I have like 6 of them, I use them for my motorcycles and ATVs also with special quick connects. When you hook it up, it should tell you right away if a battery is bad and not recoverable.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-24-2017, 8:25 AM Reply   
Will do. I think my problem is beyond the batteries but that would be amazing if it works. SC wanted every connection, wire and ground to be checked
Old    Robert Garcia (ragboy)      Join Date: Aug 2007       07-24-2017, 12:47 PM Reply   
That makes sense, but going 1+2 isn't going to hurt anything and could keep you running and enjoying the lake.
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-24-2017, 6:58 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragboy View Post
I have seen issues like that in the past, and on this boat, and both were related to voltage dropping. Those systems can just get VERY temperamental when voltage gets lower.

My 17 SE 550 was a photoshoot boat and already had 250 hours on it and when I had it out the stereo and connections seemed to glitch at times and required a hard restart. Then, on the 3rd time out, later in the day the boat started surging around 3500 rpm. Basically when going to surf with a full boat it would get up to 3500 rpm and then drop rpm and then back up and surge, it wouldn't get up past 3500 to get the surfer up to speed.

Anyway, I found that if I made sure I put my battery switch on 1+2 at the beginning of the day, NONE of these issues ever happened. We were on a 7k road trip and I pretty much forgot about it until we got home and then it did it again. I checked, and my son only put the battery on 2. I switched to 1+2 and the surging went away, without even the restart. Since then I put both batteries on one of these over night, these things work great to fully charge and tell you if a battery is no good.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Topping them both off, and then always going to 1+2 completely resolved all glitchiness and I have never seen the surge/3500 again. I have put well over 100 hours on the SE this season.

I try not to take my boat to the dealer unless I absolutely have to, and have worked through things like this in the past. Voltage is just a huge issue with the new systems.

I have no idea if that helps you, I hope it does. I plan on doing a more thorough check of the batteries, my hunch is just that one needs to be replaced, but using that Schumacher to slow charge it and maintain it to 100 over 1 night, seemed to really do the trick.
This is due to some connection being battery direct to battery one. Not everything is isolated to the switch from the factory is why you see the issue. Supras need to run on battery one or 1&2 and never on just 2 but when sitting at rest.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-25-2017, 8:25 AM Reply   
Does somebody want to endorse using only 2 or 1&2? cause I've heard all other possible combinations at this point lol
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       07-25-2017, 4:17 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlzelenik View Post
Does somebody want to endorse using only 2 or 1&2? cause I've heard all other possible combinations at this point lol
This solely depends on which battery the DEALER hooked the extra constant wires up to. They dictate which battery is the start/run and which is the house or reserve. Most I've ran into online and local are battery 1 as most dealers do the training from the manufacture.
From ragboys post is how I determined/guessed which was his start/run battery (1), by the symptoms.
The glitching in my theory is from the voltage difference between the constants that are battery direct and the main on the perko common post.
1&2 combines both batteries, when you do this the lower battery and higher battery level out in voltage and problem solved as well. The only reason why I could see a dealer say not to run 1&2 is because if you forget while floating, blasting the stereo, you do not have a reserve to start you.

Last edited by Truekaotik; 07-25-2017 at 4:26 PM.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-26-2017, 9:16 AM Reply   
Was told by my dealer on delivery day that using 1&2 would short out the system. Which sounded odd and a little unsettling, but now I realize just setting foot on my boat at any point makes the whole system act weird.

They should have just told me "using the boat will cause features to short out. It's best not to use or even buy this boat"
Old    DBC (ixfe)      Join Date: Aug 2008       07-27-2017, 4:54 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlzelenik View Post
Was told by my dealer on delivery day that using 1&2 would short out the system. Which sounded odd and a little unsettling, but now I realize just setting foot on my boat at any point makes the whole system act weird.

They should have just told me "using the boat will cause features to short out. It's best not to use or even buy this boat"
I've been running my boats on 1+2 for almost 10 years... never had an electrical issue, ever.
Old    Diggs (pdxWAKE) (tyler97217)      Join Date: Aug 2004       07-27-2017, 5:42 PM Reply   
I am with IXFE.... I run BOTH at all times and never had an issue.
Old    Rob Fullerton (Gotmods)      Join Date: Nov 2012       07-27-2017, 11:20 PM Reply   
Running combined means you no longer have 2 banks, just one larger bank. Consider adding a battery to a single bank or carrying jump box if you want a back up.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-28-2017, 6:47 AM Reply   
I'm going to get overnight charges on both batteries and run them both this weekend. Might also play around with unplugging the various stereo remotes and see if that helps the stereo issue.
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       07-28-2017, 10:19 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by tyler97217 View Post
I am with IXFE.... I run BOTH at all times and never had an issue.
X3
Old    Nacho (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       07-28-2017, 10:50 AM Reply   
I don't normally run on both, but definitely have. Whoever said anything about shorting the system needs a kick in the beanbag.
Old    Matt Zelenik (mlzelenik)      Join Date: Apr 2016       07-28-2017, 10:55 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by denverd1 View Post
I don't normally run on both, but definitely have. Whoever said anything about shorting the system needs a kick in the beanbag.
There's been a couple beanbags I'd like to kick

That info came from my dealer who dropped Supra shortly after we purchased. SC rep said they recommend only running 1. What would be the point of dual batteries at that point.

*switches to 1&2*
I'm just gonna send it
Old    Robert Garcia (ragboy)      Join Date: Aug 2007       07-29-2017, 1:52 AM Reply   
In a perfect world, you should go on only one, and switch to the other if you accidentally run it down. Then, depending on the type of switch you have, you are SUPPOSED to use position 1 on some outings and 2 on others, to help keep the batteries balanced.

Or you can just put it on 1+2 and they will stay balanced, but you have no backup, but because they are balanced, you don't get those funky voltage issues. I honestly not sure which type of switch Supra is using, but I think it is the type that proper usage is to alternate which you use when you go out.

Or you can get a more intelligent switch, something like this:





These types of switches seem ideal, and many swear by them, since you just turn it on and it handles the rest, keeping your batteries in balance AND giving you back up, which is pretty cool. If you find going to 1+2 solves your problem, then one of these types of switches would probably be a good thing.

Another note, if I am out and we are going to be swimming and chilling and I am going to leave the stereo running for some time, I will switch to 2 for piece of mind, and then start the boat and go to 1+2 after I start the boat.

NOTE: This was bugging the crap out of me, so I went out to my boat to see exactly what model I have, figuring it is most likely the same as yours. I know what its like to take out your expensive toy and then have issues like that, it sucks.

IMG_0050

IMG_0054

This is the switch I have in my boat, I bet yours is the same or similar and not the "smart" type. I don't see any other type of smart circuit for keeping batteries balanced and the like.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/600...y_Switch_-_Red

With this type of switch, you are supposed to use 1 on some outings, and 2 on others, so you keep both batteries fresh, charged, and balanced.

Here is an article I found that gives more insight.

http://www.boattest.com/view-news/30...switch-dilemma

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