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Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-07-2014, 8:03 AM Reply   
So we had a few newbs out on the boat this holiday weekend that wanted to try and surf. Not really sure why i let them ride my shredd stixx but i did. Anyways, he fell launched the board at the back of the boat and took a nice chunk out the nose. And put a nice scratch on the boat. So 1 how do you recomend repairing the nose and does anyone know of a place that perhapd makes rubber or foam nose protectors? Name:  WP_20140706_001.jpg
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Old     (BenHolloway)      Join Date: Aug 2012       07-07-2014, 8:24 AM Reply   
Ouch! Thats a good one, if it was smaller I would say do it yourself but a repair that size you might be better off sending it in to Nick...
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-07-2014, 8:26 AM Reply   
Any ideas how long it would take and how much?
Old     (boardjnky4)      Join Date: Dec 2011       07-07-2014, 8:36 AM Reply   
You can probably use the information here to fix it

IMO, I would just chop the tip straight across and follow the above video for repair.
Old     (brewkettle)      Join Date: Jan 2009       07-07-2014, 8:56 AM Reply   
I can build you an AREA 51 board less traction at a awesome price,. 3 weeks to manufacture then ship. I have a link on my lakewakes site.
board would be much tougher and still a pound or more lighter then the smashed board.

Old     (e_rock32)      Join Date: Oct 2009       07-07-2014, 9:10 AM Reply   
Stuff like that happens all the time with wake surfboards and real surfboards. Nose dings are the least of a surfers worries, because they do not effect the performance of the board at all. If you're looking to save some money, go to Walmart and pick up JB Waterweld, it's an epoxy putty that is super easy to use and apply and it only takes about an hour to cure. It costs like $6 or $7 and the stick will probably last you years. They sell the same stuff at surf shops for $10-15 and that stuff is chunky and ugly compared to JB Waterweld.
Old     (e_rock32)      Join Date: Oct 2009       07-07-2014, 9:16 AM Reply   
Forgot to say the JB cures in a light gray to off-white color (not clear)
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-07-2014, 9:17 AM Reply   
Thanks guys. I'll try the waterweld stuff. Can it be shaped so that i dont have to chop off too much of the board to make it "look" mover even?

Brew, can i pick colors on the boards? And does the Oconee location in Milledgeville have them for demo?
Old     (boardjnky4)      Join Date: Dec 2011       07-07-2014, 9:33 AM Reply   
waterweld is going to end up being a ghetto fix in my opinion.
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-07-2014, 10:02 AM Reply   
I can always use the waterweld first, if it looks bad i can chop it then do a reg fiberglass repair. The problem with the shreds is that its not really fiberglass, its more like a hard plastic coating. Idk but i gotta do something. Open to opinions if anyone wants to chime in.
Old     (brewkettle)      Join Date: Jan 2009       07-07-2014, 10:38 AM Reply   
Oconee Outfitters is a Lakewakes dealer that has some boards to either demo on your boat or rent. Lakewakes offers several shapes.
AREA 51 only offers 1 shape with 2 different nose styles and doesn't carry traction. So factory boards are less expensive.

I can offer a list of colors to choose from . Orange seems to be a popular color.
The boards I manufacture have high tensile fabrics laid in a multi direction pattern.. this keeps my boards from cracking .

Old     (Chaos)      Join Date: Apr 2010       07-07-2014, 2:24 PM Reply   
Bill, that is an easy fix. I can send you out a repair kit and talk you through ever step of the repair.

You can check out other boards at:

Old     (phathom)      Join Date: Jun 2013       07-07-2014, 3:02 PM Reply   
I had this happen to myself a few months ago. We were still working on the wave and were in less than ideal conditions. I had gotten pushed up towards the boat with the fluctuation of the water from some rollers and then the wave actually started pushing me. I leaned back, put a lot of weight on my back leg, but just couldn't fall back quick enough. I ended up falling off the back of the board when this happened. With the momentum and all the weight at the back of the board, it launched at the back of the boat. Luckily it hit the ski d-ring and not the gelcoat. It did crunch the nose a little bit, but not terribly bad. This was on the Ronix Caption. Had it been on the Koal it would have likely been more extensive than even what you had happen to yours.
I'm not a noob by any means, but sometimes the perfect storm of fail comes together and s*** happens.

I have used fiberglass resin to fill in minor chips on my boards from time to time. My friend Trayson has done some fiberglass repair on his Koal that takes so much damage over any little thing. He could probably give you some pointers on it as well. Good thing it is on the nose as that doesn't affect riding too much.
Old     (BenHolloway)      Join Date: Aug 2012       07-07-2014, 3:46 PM Reply   
If Nick says you can fix it do it, I love working with glass and if you have a pro to give you pointers it seems like a no brainer...
Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-07-2014, 7:01 PM Reply   
Nick....How much are the repair kits and would a nose guard help with that type of damage?
Old     (Pad1Tai)      Join Date: Jan 2013       07-07-2014, 7:10 PM Reply   
Take it to Da Moose one hour ding repair............
Old     (WakeDirt)      Join Date: Jun 2011       07-07-2014, 8:54 PM Reply   
Sand it and use plastic dip...did that to my slaysh grindvwater
..has held up 3 years...
Old     (Chaos)      Join Date: Apr 2010       07-08-2014, 9:19 AM Reply   
Bill, repair kits are pretty cheap, $12 to $16. Yes a nose guard will help with blunt force impacts in the future, but only to an extent. The amount of force of a board shooting off will likely still crack under the nose guard, but it will prevent a lot of that type of damage to your boat.

What you are going to want to do is sand all around the nose, tape off the nose from the bottom wrapping the tape around the rails, leaving the top open to create a reservoir to pour resin into. Lay down some fiberglass and fill up the reservoir. Once cured, pull the tape. This will form your basic rough shape for your new nose, then sand, shape, fill as necessary. You can go over it with resin or paint till you get the finish you desire.

Plasti-dip is not a bad idea either. Need to be sure that the solvents won't melt polystyrene.

Old     (soonerbilly)      Join Date: Jul 2013       07-10-2014, 6:30 AM Reply   
Started sanding and shaping the nose to prepare for fiberglass. I'm going to order enough for 2 boards. (i also have a LF Noserider that suffered the same launch sequence and it split the entire nose in 2 ) From now on I'll just have the newbs ride the Ronix Cortez. Little harder to ride but damn near indestructable.
Old     (zap)      Join Date: Jan 2009       07-11-2014, 12:35 PM Reply   
Solarez UV cure to seal it, but unless you have the missing chunk you will still have the scar
Old     (delitev)      Join Date: May 2014       08-07-2014, 11:28 AM Reply   
I run these on all my boards.


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