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Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-05-2014, 5:15 PM Reply   
Im debating wether to stuff 2 12" subs in a sealed enclosure under the helm or buy a single high output sub like maybe a JL 13w7 and port it. I'm looking for the most output I can get out of that space which is about 2 cuft. I've had both sealed and ported boxes in the past and I'm fine with both sound styles. What have people found to be the best option???
Old    Baitkiller (baitkiller)      Join Date: Jan 2010       04-05-2014, 6:44 PM Reply   
Why?
Old    Russ Weber (Boonejeepin)      Join Date: Oct 2012       04-05-2014, 7:04 PM Reply   
I am no audio expert but I have been told that surface area is king with a sub. 2cu ft sounds to be a bit small for a ported enclosure.
Old    Scott (scottb7)      Join Date: Oct 2012       04-05-2014, 8:21 PM Reply   
My set up is simple but awesome:
polk dvc dual voice coil 12" sub peaks at 720w
alpine pdx 1.600m 600w mono straight in.
sealed box not sure exactly what size maybe about 1 or 2 cu ft...

others smarter can chime in but i think one well placed well powered sub is best bet...
Attached Images
 
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 4:56 AM Reply   
If you only have 2 cu ft to play with, get a sundown 12vz3 ported with 2500 rms amp pushing it. That would be about the loudest.

The easiest and simplest would be to get a kicker 15l7 sealed in 2 cu ft and push 1000 watt rms to it.
Old    Chris Hernandez (CHern5972)      Join Date: Jul 2012       04-06-2014, 6:06 AM Reply   
Im looking at selling my 2 typeR alpine 12's. Im looking at putting in a JL w712 and building a box. 1.375 cu. ft sealed enclosure as JL calls for. Possibly selling my 2 jl audio 600.1and upgrading to the 750.1.


any thoughts?

ps..im not a stereo guru.. I normally have this done but the box looks simple enough on a sealed enclosure
Old    Surf Addict (Desi) (phathom)      Join Date: Jun 2013       04-06-2014, 8:26 AM Reply   
If you're looking for the most sound out of a small space, you do not want a ported enclosure. For tight spaces you definitely want a sealed enclosure, they produce the most sound with the least volume.
Check the specs of the sub you are looking at putting in, see how much space it requires for optimal sound in each type of enclosure. If you have enough space to go ported, do it, otherwise stay sealed.
Old    Chris Hernandez (CHern5972)      Join Date: Jul 2012       04-06-2014, 8:43 AM Reply   
Might build it and see how it works out.

also, any thoughts on this amp? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...tails/m1200-1d

Last edited by CHern5972; 04-06-2014 at 8:47 AM.
Old    Brett Yates (polarbill)      Join Date: Jun 2003       04-06-2014, 8:58 AM Reply   
First off I am not audiophile and don't really know squat about the technical side like Dave, grant or the other stereo gurus on wakeworld.

To me this would come down to math, at least originally. Is the 2 cuft outside dimensions or inside dimensions? If it is outside dimensions need to be 2 cuft or less than what does that give you for internal volume once you factor in the thickness of box material and the volume of the sub? If it drops it to something closer to 1-1.5 cuft are there even 12" subs that will work will with .5-.75 cuft of space? IS 2 cuft of external space even enough to make a correctly sized ported box?
Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-06-2014, 9:06 AM Reply   
Ok, maybe I asked the question wrong. I'm not looking for people to speculate what might work better and types of boxes, I'm looking for people who actually have done it and "know" what they are doing. I'm no audio guru but not far off with as much car and boat audio builds I've done myself.

Brett, assuming 2cuft internal after displacement. Is just a rough number at this point.

Maybe David, Tim or someone with experience building inboard systems can chime in?

Last edited by Wakesounds; 04-06-2014 at 9:10 AM. Reason: fix
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 9:23 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakesounds View Post
Im debating wether to stuff 2 12" subs in a sealed enclosure under the helm or buy a single high output sub like maybe a JL 13w7 and port it. I'm looking for the most output I can get out of that space which is about 2 cuft. I've had both sealed and ported boxes in the past and I'm fine with both sound styles. What have people found to be the best option???
You really have to define your objectives a little more. Like, what are you willing to give up for more output. Are you willing to give up sound quality and bandwidth for maximum output?

Here are a few basics:

2 cu.ft. internal isn't going to work with a ported 13W7 unless you run the port external to the enclosure which is a perfectly legit approach.

Surface area is king. It is far more efficient to produce output with surface area than excursion. So surface area is first priority and when you hit the wall on surface area you turn to excursion.

The W7 will give you excellent surface area because of the frameless design and resulting larger cone. The W7 will also give you excellent excursion under control with minimal distortion. The W7 will give you all of these qualities without having to push around a stupid amount of mass. In contrast, a woofer with a voice coil as heavy as a roll of quarters and a number of stacked spiders, etc. will handle lots of power and abuse but is an inefficient and clumsy transducer. Often these SPL monsters are really not efficient at all.

A woofer capable of extreme excursion will have less internal efficiency....so you need to have more power to see those benefits. Correctly matching the sub with power is essential.

Enclosure size does impact output, certainly at the lower end of the bandwidth. It is counterproductive to force more surface area in less box.

Bass-reflex has more output in the meaty part of the bass and more deep bass extension within the realm of most music. But it requires considerably more displacement. Bass-reflex makes it easy to align the system for more linear bandwidth or more peak output depending on your priorities.

The average output of one bass-reflex 13W7 versus two sealed 12W6 is fairly similar if both are powered to their potential.

It is going to be difficult in many boats to have either scenario direct-radiating. How the woofer(s) are loading into the boat will have a profound impact on output.
Old     (Alleykat)      Join Date: Jan 2013       04-06-2014, 9:29 AM Reply   
Are looking for flat out BOOM or SPL, or are you looking for more of an SQ related system?

A high end, big excursion 12" driver in a properly built ported enclosure can be pretty hard to beat if you looking for SPL. You will get more boomy ,raw bass out of ported enclosure in a boat vs 2 sealed 12' s in what will equate to a pretty small enclosure per speaker . I have built both, heard both, tuned both setups.

The 13w7 is a serious driver and will need a serious well built enclosure to sound good. If you have the cake, go that route, but it sounds like you don't have enough room to run that speaker in a properly sized ported enclosure. I think a W7 in a ported enclosure would rival a lesser 12 ported. Taking that into consideration, the W6 in a ported enclosure is a beast! . Needs less than 1.5 cubic feet and is super hard to beat when properly powered at the high end of specs.

I recently did a 2 cu. ft ported box with an Exile XI12d and it was pretty dang impressive off 800 watts.
Old    Harold Hemming (h20king)      Join Date: Dec 2009       04-06-2014, 9:52 AM Reply   
Sorry to high jack but when you say the JL w6 properley powered to the high end of the specs how much power are you recomending ??I have an Arc KS 1000.1 that will put out 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms. I keep going back to the W6 because of the size of the ported enclosure but have not bought one yet because of concerns of to much power. Jl says 600 watts RMS 1000 watts peak
Old     (Alleykat)      Join Date: Jan 2013       04-06-2014, 10:05 AM Reply   
In reference to what I was saying, a SEALED W7 would rival a lesser ported 12. Can't edit now

In reference to power on a W6 , you can run them safely up to 800 plus watts RMS, I did for two seasons with no issues.

You can run the KS1000 to a W6 just fine. Keep your gains conservative and keep the bass boost at a minimum. I would much rather overpower one than under power one.

Last edited by Alleykat; 04-06-2014 at 10:08 AM.
Old    J (Jmorlan)      Join Date: May 2013       04-06-2014, 10:12 AM Reply   
Is that ks1000.1 doing 1000rms at 14.4v?
Because remember, you won't be seeing that output. So that 1000.1 would probably work great at around 800w to the sub
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 10:20 AM Reply   
The guy asked for the single loudest sub setups! NONE of these answers are remotely close. Car audio guys would be laughing there asses off.
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 10:21 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by h20king View Post
Sorry to high jack but when you say the JL w6 properley powered to the high end of the specs how much power are you recomending ??I have an Arc KS 1000.1 that will put out 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms. I keep going back to the W6 because of the size of the ported enclosure but have not bought one yet because of concerns of to much power. Jl says 600 watts RMS 1000 watts peak
Harold,
I think I can put this in perspective for you.
First, it is difficult to compare specs from outside any given brand because the standards are different.
For example, JL Audio gives you a specific voltage to safely set your gains on their amplifiers. They know you will likely set the gain levels with a supply voltage of 12.7 volts or less and certainly not at the 14.4 rated supply voltage. Because of this you can generally count on a JL Audio amplifier, whether regulated or unregulated, to meet or exceed its 14.4 V power spec with a 12.6 volt supply. They also tend to deliver stable power over the entire audio bandwidth. Very conservative. And those ratings then correspond to the thermal ratings of their subwoofers.
An unregulated amplifier like your Arc Audio KS will typically lose 25% of the 14.4 V rated power with a 12.6 V supply (common to all brands). It will lose another margin of power at 40 Hz versus 100 Hz which is again lower in power than the 1 kHz usually given for the rated power. And that places you right in the realm of the 600 watt W6.
If your system is correctly set-up, tuned and used, you should not have a thermal power handling issue. However, you could still do damage with less wattage than the rated thermal power if you drive the amplifier into hard clipping where it can put out a multiple of its rated power.
Old    J (Jmorlan)      Join Date: May 2013       04-06-2014, 10:24 AM Reply   
What do you think about Digital Designs (DD) woofers David?
Old     (Alleykat)      Join Date: Jan 2013       04-06-2014, 10:29 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by BradM07SS View Post
The guy asked for the single loudest sub setups! NONE of these answers are remotely close. Car audio guys would be laughing there asses off.

Let's hear the offerings you got then that FIT into his constraints.

Key word is CAR audio in your statement.
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 10:31 AM Reply   
Already did, well because most boat owners don't know crap there just brand nuthuggers

Last edited by BradM07SS; 04-06-2014 at 10:32 AM. Reason: spell
Old    J (Jmorlan)      Join Date: May 2013       04-06-2014, 10:54 AM Reply   
Alleykat is right though.
Every system I've had in a vehicle has pounded.
Take that same setup and toss it in a boat, you'll be surely upset with the expected output.
I had a box being done for my centurion last summer.
In the mean time, I took the box from my truck with the sub in it and threw it in the observer locker.
Level 4 DC audio 12 in a 3cu box at 32hz.
2100w rms amp, providing around 1500-1600rms to the sub at 12.6v

Did it have some thump? Yeah sure.
Was it anywhere near the output it gives in my truck? No way
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 10:56 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmorlan View Post
What do you think about Digital Designs (DD) woofers David?
I like them with some reservations. Had a chance to audition and compare them side-by-side with the current/carried line-up when I was in the business. They have been doing it for a long time and know how to make a woofer that hammers and stays together. They are actually used in some demanding commercial applications.
DD isn't my cup of tea but I respect the brand and would not discourage you from owning them.
In general I have stated many times before that I am not a fan of woofers that use....
*multiple laminated/stacked off-the-shelf spiders versus a lighter proprietary spider made for a specific woofer.
*woofers that use the same voice coil, same magnet structure, and same spider O.D. throughout a series versus each woofer being individually engineered as a balanced design.
I think with this type of woofer, the woofers get more limited in SQ as you move up the line-up towards the highest power handling models.
Think of it this way. 3 or 4 laminated spiders = more moving mass. Heavy multi-layer voice coils = more moving mass + more VC inductance. The mass keeps getting heavier and the compliance/damping keeps getting stiffer. Does that sound to you like the most efficient way to displace air?
Old    Surf Addict (Desi) (phathom)      Join Date: Jun 2013       04-06-2014, 10:56 AM Reply   
Personally, because I used them to compete with a single sub setup. I would recommend a Kicker Solobaric L7. The minimum required space is 1.5 cubic feet sealed.
It's not really optimal for that small of space, but they are loud and have more surface area than a comparable 12" round sub. Running one of them with a 1500rms amp, I was hitting 148.6db at the dash in competition off a single sub. It did have a much larger, tuned, ported box though.
Before I got that box, I ran it in a smaller, about 2 cubic foot sealed box. It was still pretty loud, but didn't reach it's potential in there.
Old     (Alleykat)      Join Date: Jan 2013       04-06-2014, 11:10 AM Reply   
That was my general reservation also with the L7 comment. It's a pretty powerful speakers, not very good SQ wise IMO , but can really rumble!

Problem is in a very small box,under 2 cu. ft. It's less than ideal and a ported 12 will out perform it. There are some things I like about the square drivers, but more I don't like.
Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-06-2014, 11:37 AM Reply   
Thanks guys for the intelligent responses, but the big (and most important) difference is that boats have completely different sound characteristics than that of a vehicle and such require a completely different vision of how to get the most potential.

I used the JL audio 13w7 as a reference to a quality subwoofer that could be used and I think people are getting a little off track with brand and style preferences as relating to car audio.

I'm specifically looking for people who have setup higher end systems in BOATS and their take on what is a better sound and output as relating specifically to boats. As a reference my last boat had 3 12" subs in custom sealed (wood and fiberglass) enclosures that equated to about 1cuft per sub and about 1800 watts to the trio.
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 11:52 AM Reply   
Not really , it takes cone area , power, the correct enclosure for sub chosen , plenty of batteries to keep the voltage up , correct wire size etc... to get loud in a car or boat. Yes a car will be louder than a boat with the same setup, but the overall principles are the same for both

Last edited by BradM07SS; 04-06-2014 at 11:53 AM. Reason: more
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 11:58 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakesounds View Post
Thanks guys for the intelligent responses, but the big (and most important) difference is that boats have completely different sound characteristics than that of a vehicle and such require a completely different vision of how to get the most potential.

I used the JL audio 13w7 as a reference to a quality subwoofer that could be used and I think people are getting a little off track with brand and style preferences as relating to car audio.

I'm specifically looking for people who have setup higher end systems in BOATS and their take on what is a better sound and output as relating specifically to boats. As a reference my last boat had 3 12" subs in custom sealed (wood and fiberglass) enclosures that equated to about 1cuft per sub and about 1800 watts to the trio.
Ryan,
A subwoofer, whether sealed or ported, big or small, etc. etc. etc. doesn't work differently between a boat and car. The woofer and box system is a self-dependent tuned resonator regardless of where you place it. Sure, the results will be completely different but the entire difference is in the environment. And you do not have enough control with the minor tweaks to impact the environment. It comes down to the simple things like surface area, power, and loading/coupling. It boils down to how much leverage you can through at the objective.
You can, however, make trade-offs in the design....for example, you can exchange a more linear and wider bandwidth for greater peak output over a narrower bandwidth. The overall and collective energy is essentially the same. You have really only determined where you distribute the energy. This pretty much applies equally to both initial woofer selection and final enclosure design within a given enclosure type. Car, home, boat, or commercial won't change these basic principles.
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 12:01 PM Reply   
Sorry Brad, I just repeated what you wrote. Slow typing on my part I guess.
Old    J (Jmorlan)      Join Date: May 2013       04-06-2014, 12:23 PM Reply   
I just think for the money, there HAS to be a better alternative to the 13W7. It is so damn expensive.
The RE XXX 12, or 15 can be had in that price range. And it's a monster of a woofer.
Rms 2000-2500w that thing slams
Old    J (Jmorlan)      Join Date: May 2013       04-06-2014, 12:55 PM Reply   
Sonicelectronix has the RE XXX 15 for $529

A 13w7 is $999
Also on Sonicelectronix
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 1:09 PM Reply   
http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=800640

Scroll down a little and read where a guy put 2 sundown 10zv3 only on 1000 watts each. These can easily handle 2000 each.
Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-06-2014, 1:12 PM Reply   
You both are correct of course the enclosure/subwoofer combo doesn't change, what I was referring to is the environment where you place it and how is resonates and responses due to its surroundings. I also understand the linear nature and broader bandwidth output of sealed enclosues and the more and tuned responses of ported enclosures as well as the space they require. Enclosures in boats (and cars) respond very different based on how they resonate of certain souces, with boats their are less options without major modifications. When I had sealed enclosures in my last boat, I experimented with facing them outwards, sideways and rearward (facing toward the back wall of the helm) and there were great differences of how bass resonated.


So far their hasn't been anybody that responded with a specifi boat install observation to sound output and quality. I'm not debating which sounds better or which sub is better quality because thats all subjective to the user.

My question is more geared toward audio builders that have actually installed and tested enclosures specifiacally in a boat environment and what their experiments and build designs did they find most successfull as far as quality of output. Of course you can have high spl and booming muddy sound and call it higher output but I think most people want to keep the sound quality in a decent aspect.
Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-06-2014, 1:14 PM Reply   
Brad. thanks for the link
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 1:16 PM Reply   
This is the sub I recommend if u wanna get loud in 1.75-2.0 cu ft ported enclosure. Put at least 2000 watts rms and it will get down!
http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10401-z-...subwoofer.aspx
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 1:19 PM Reply   
Well Sonic isn't a JL Audio dealer so I wouldn't buy a precision woofer that has its serial number removed from under the spider and re-glued with what?

Yes, an RE XXX 15 is a beast and if you want a blunt sledgehammer it absolutely gets the job done. The XXX series was originally designed to go in dance clubs but that market didn't pan out for RE. It's also a perfect example of an entire series using the same spider, voice coil and magnet structure. The 'Qts' is a 24% change from the 12" to the 15" and a 36% change from the 12" to the 18". 'Qts' is the critical damping parameter in a woofer. That is your applicational starting point. So they certainly were not going for a common objective nor is this a precision woofer. For that reason and many more I wouldn't compare it directly to a JL Audio 13W7. It has value but just not the same value unless you are simply comparing bulk alone. Not everyone will make the W7 investment and that I understand.
Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-06-2014, 1:48 PM Reply   
I never buy from unauthorized dealers. I learned my lesson years ago with grey market products. Usually you get what you pay for!

David clearly you have audio knowledge, have you done many boat installs? Observations on setups under the helm?
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 2:04 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakesounds View Post
I never buy from unauthorized dealers. I learned my lesson years ago with grey market products. Usually you get what you pay for!

David clearly you have audio knowledge, have you done many boat installs? Observations on setups under the helm?
I was in home audio and then car audio for decades. I started a marine audio division and maintained my involvement for 15 years before retirement. So over that period I have designed too many boat systems to count and have been exposed to many more.
As for the driver's helm, I prefer that location simply because it is often the easiest way to get direct-radiation in many boats. There are great losses with woofers/enclosures concealed in a compartment/locker/console, even when vented. But not all towboats have an open cavity under the dash so you manage around what the particular boat provides.
Old    Ryan (Wakesounds)      Join Date: May 2011       04-06-2014, 2:37 PM Reply   
I see a lot of under the helm designs with woofers facing directly out either sealed or ported. Its been my experience that bass is greatly diminished without a "wall" or area to resonate off of, what have you experienced to provide the best results for that area? How the subs "visually" appear to the boats occupants isn't as important as the overall output in relation to firing direction from my stand point. Anybody else can chime in on this as well!
Old    Brad Morring (BradM07SS)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 3:06 PM Reply   
Port and sub facing the transom usually sounds the best and is loudest in most applications.
Old    David (DavidAnalog)      Join Date: Sep 2013       04-06-2014, 3:10 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wakesounds View Post
I see a lot of under the helm designs with woofers facing directly out either sealed or ported. Its been my experience that bass is greatly diminished without a "wall" or area to resonate off of, what have you experienced to provide the best results for that area? How the subs "visually" appear to the boats occupants isn't as important as the overall output in relation to firing direction from my stand point. Anybody else can chime in on this as well!
It's going to vary.
If you are running a bass-reflex 12" or 13.5" you will have both the woofer and port facing outward. You would not want to aim either the woofer or port in a tight, confined space. You will want the woofer and port on the same side of the enclosure. And you will not miss those extra boundaries around the woofer.
With a bass-reflex 10" or sealed 12" and the smaller enclosure, you typically have enough space around the enclosure that you can side-fire the woofer toward the hull or other adjacent surface. This way you have the five planes of the helm cavity folded around the port/woofer's output. With each plane you get increased output. Coming a little closer to that automobile scenario. But you must have enough air space between the port/woofer and the adjacent plane and at no place in the path of the bass radiation do you want to reduce the radiating surface area. It needs to be un-impeded and quasi direct radiating.
Firing into the cavity will give you a deep bass boost but will filter some of the midbass transients and attack. Firing out toward the open cockpit will be more articulate but without that extra low end boost.
If that under helm cavity is too large or the sub enclosure doesn't displace a fair percentage of that cavity then the cavity can be counter-productive and will function as more of a trap. Also, the reflected energy out of an expansive cavity can be out-of-phase with the woofer's direct radiation. So in some cases, like with a helm cavity that leads to under the bow seats, you need to partition that section off.
Again, if you are fine tuning and going for every bit of acoustic leverage you use every advantage you can get. Like anything else, there can be trade-offs so you size every boat and system up a little differently.
Old    Danny Pacini (dp513)      Join Date: Jul 2011       04-06-2014, 8:21 PM Reply   
my buddy has 1 13w7 in a malibu in a custom enclosure. It is LOUD. I have 2 w6v3s and they are ridiculous as well. I have mine in seperate boxes that I got off highfisoundconnection. 1 12w6v3 would be a good choice for you the v3 looks very similar to the w7. Huge step up from the v2w6
Old    Robby Elliott (Elliottsx80)      Join Date: Feb 2012       04-06-2014, 8:53 PM Reply   
From the stuff I've read a 15 l7 is probably one of the loudest single subs in a boat. I'm actually having the stereo built in my new x80 and I decided to go with 2 15l7s in ported boxes. Both will be mounted under port side seat firing into the cockpit. Powering them with 2 1200 jl hd amps curious on how it's going to sound
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       04-07-2014, 6:02 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliottsx80 View Post
From the stuff I've read a 15 l7 is probably one of the loudest single subs in a boat. I'm actually having the stereo built in my new x80 and I decided to go with 2 15l7s in ported boxes. Both will be mounted under port side seat firing into the cockpit. Powering them with 2 1200 jl hd amps curious on how it's going to sound
Whoa buddy!! Didn't you just drop a TON redoing the X80 @ Earmark last fall or something??? Redoing again or another new X80?
Old    Robby Elliott (Elliottsx80)      Join Date: Feb 2012       04-07-2014, 7:41 AM Reply   
bought another x80
Old     (Truekaotik)      Join Date: Jun 2012       04-07-2014, 8:03 AM Reply   
Damn PIMP!!!! the L7 is impressive in a wake boat…… you'll see soon enough….
Old    Jason Neves (jv210)      Join Date: Feb 2006       04-07-2014, 11:06 AM Reply   
I got a 13W7 in a ported box under the helm that pounds, but you not going to be able to fit that in 2cuft. I belive a sealed box with fit your requirements. I've had it both sealed and ported and I like the ported better. I've heard a 15" LT in a sealed box that sounds and felt really good, this might fit you 2cuft requirement better then a 13W7

Old    Bryce Pool (bryce2320)      Join Date: May 2012       04-07-2014, 12:13 PM Reply   
How thick is that acrylic baffle? That box is badass
Old    Jason Neves (jv210)      Join Date: Feb 2006       04-07-2014, 12:34 PM Reply   
The front is 1", I believe the port is 1/2"
Old    Timmy! (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       04-07-2014, 4:55 PM Reply   
That box is sweet! How much $$$ do you have in that without the sub?
Old    Mikeski (mikeski)      Join Date: Aug 2003       04-07-2014, 6:16 PM Reply   
Match your sub, your box, and your amp is always the way to go. I just threw a sealed sub in my ski boat. I only had 0.8 cubic feet to work with so I looked hard to find a low volume high excursion sub that would work in that space. I ended up with a little Polk db series dual voice coil sub that has a good amount of excursion and powered with with 400 watts. Surprisingly this little combo hits harder than most of my friends boats with multiple mix matched subs and harder than my wakeboard boat did with 1500 watts going to a mismatched setup. It can't keep up with my wakeboard boat with 1200 watts pushing a slot ported Boston SPG555 but the ski boat setup is also running on 1 battery.

The point of this post is that any mismatched combination of high end gear will always sound worse than a carefully thought out well matched combination of any quality gear. Too many folks focus on brands and volumes then lose it on placement and tuning.

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