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Old    Todd (antoddio)      Join Date: Dec 2006       03-18-2014, 5:45 PM Reply   
Check out this drawing and let me know if this will work. I'm only mixing a jabsco in because I have one already. I am going to use 3/4 inch hose (except on the bottom thru hull) and check valves since I have a lot of them already. Obviously this isn't dimensionally and spatially correct so don't get hung up on that. I thought using the manifold would be cheaper and easier that drilling 3 separate intakes, especially because space looks kind of tight in the bottom of the boat where I'd be drilling.

This is going in a 07 Supreme V232. Let me know you comments. Thanks!

I'm not an artist obv
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File Type: pdf Ballast system.pdf (111.4 KB, 101 views)
Old    Mark (FunkyBunch)      Join Date: Jun 2011       03-18-2014, 6:04 PM Reply   
IMO your going to have issue feeding the reversible pumps in this manner. If you turn on more than one pump it will starve the next one for water pressure. The reversible pumps like a dedicated thru hull.
Old    Jordan Haugen (jordanh)      Join Date: Feb 2013       03-18-2014, 6:09 PM Reply   
Can you explain the plastic t's right after the manifold that each go to a thru hull..?


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Old    Todd (antoddio)      Join Date: Dec 2006       03-18-2014, 6:13 PM Reply   
Those are for the drains. The pump will force the water out of the sacs, but it won't be able to push past the one way value. Therefore it goes out the T fitting and out of the side of the boat. I think that's a typical way of doing it.
Old    Mark (FunkyBunch)      Join Date: Jun 2011       03-18-2014, 6:17 PM Reply   
Reversible pumps send water back out the thru hull. Aerator pumps have a second pump attached to the bottom of the bag that pumps out the side of the boat.
Old    Todd (antoddio)      Join Date: Dec 2006       03-18-2014, 6:18 PM Reply   
I was going to try to get a manifold big enough to handle sufficient water flow. Probably have to piece something together at lowes. The thru hull and hose will be a 1.25 or 1.5, which can support A LOT of water flow.

Specs per wakemakers
3/4" 1,440GPH Single Aerator or Impeller Pump
1" 2,200GPH Two Aerator or Impeller Pumps
1-1/4" 5,900GPH Three Aerator or Impeller Pumps
1-1/2" 7,560GPH Four Aerator or Impeller Pumps
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-18-2014, 6:33 PM Reply   
You will need 3 check valves per sac/pump in order to divert the drain flow to an above waterline drain t-hull. Without the one between the T and drain t-hull, the pump will draw air from it.
Old    Todd (antoddio)      Join Date: Dec 2006       03-18-2014, 6:37 PM Reply   
Got it...check valve on the drain hoses. Makes sense
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-18-2014, 6:40 PM Reply   
And Y's are way more efficient then T's.
Old    Mark (FunkyBunch)      Join Date: Jun 2011       03-18-2014, 6:45 PM Reply   
My understanding was that the reversible pumps want a good clean flow to work best. That even meant not having the thru hulls to close together. I am sure wakemakers will chime in.
Old    Jordan Haugen (jordanh)      Join Date: Feb 2013       03-18-2014, 6:50 PM Reply   
Why would you be diverting the drain flow to an above waterline thru hull? Typically that is for an aerator (one pump for fill, seperate pump for drain) system. A reversible jabsco should push the water back out the thru under the boat. I'm no expert on ballast but that's the way I've always seen it done.


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Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-18-2014, 6:54 PM Reply   
Draining over the side gives the operator an audible and visual indication that the sac is done draining.
Old    Jordan Haugen (jordanh)      Join Date: Feb 2013       03-18-2014, 6:57 PM Reply   
Also you should have vents for the two seat sacs, or no?


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Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-18-2014, 6:58 PM Reply   
I prefer to vent sacs. No need to babysit them that way.
Old    Todd (antoddio)      Join Date: Dec 2006       03-18-2014, 7:07 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
I prefer to vent sacs. No need to babysit them that way.
The seat sacs are pretty easy to monitor so I haven't vented them on past setups. If I'm swapping sacs around sometimes the extra connection and the extra hose lying around is more trouble than it's worth. I could always add that later if I change my mind.
Old    Jordan Haugen (jordanh)      Join Date: Feb 2013       03-18-2014, 7:13 PM Reply   
Got ya, thanks. I've actually never realized you could get a setup to drain above the waterline with a jabsco. Might just have to implement that into my system


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Old    Mark Hansen (MJHSupra)      Join Date: Jan 2014       03-18-2014, 8:06 PM Reply   
On your back seat sacs, did you ever consider using a Bosworth Y-Valve?

When I redid my 2007 Supra, on the Front IBS and Center Locker Sac, I used 1 Johnson Pump thru a Bosworth Y-Valve into either sac.

I used 3 Johnson Pumps and 3 holes in the hull - one was the existing, 2 new. Wakemakers has a good video of how to do it.

http://www.wakemakers.com/bosworth-y-valve.html

Mark


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Last edited by MJHSupra; 03-18-2014 at 8:14 PM.
Old    Jordan Haugen (jordanh)      Join Date: Feb 2013       03-19-2014, 7:03 AM Reply   
So when you open the ball valve, with the pumps OFF, will the water pushing up through the thru hull cause enough pressure to push through the check valve on the drain like and push water out the side of the boat? It'll only fill the hose up to the waterline, right? I'm not on the up and up with my physics...


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Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-19-2014, 8:04 AM Reply   
Jordan,

Are you referring to the main ball valve on top of the thru-hull? This will typically stay in the open position and only be used as an emergency shutoff. Unless a thru-hull scoop was used, there will not be enough water pressure with the boat underway to push past the pumps. Nor will there be enough to exit through the gunwale mounted drain thru-hull.
Old    Anthonyv911 (tonyv420)      Join Date: Jul 2007       03-19-2014, 8:13 AM Reply   
Mine pushes the water right back out of the bottom of the hull, where it comes in, using a Jabsco Ballast Puppy. Works like a charm!
Old    Jordan Haugen (jordanh)      Join Date: Feb 2013       03-19-2014, 9:30 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
Jordan,

Are you referring to the main ball valve on top of the thru-hull? This will typically stay in the open position and only be used as an emergency shutoff. Unless a thru-hull scoop was used, there will not be enough water pressure with the boat underway to push past the pumps. Nor will there be enough to exit through the gunwale mounted drain thru-hull.
Yes that's what i meant. If the ball valve was open and just sitting hanging out in the water. Thanks



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Old    Spencer (spencerwm)      Join Date: Feb 2009       03-19-2014, 10:01 AM Reply   


I revised the schematic to add the check valves on the drain lines. Will it work? Yes.

The operation will be slowed by sharing the single thru-hull and you will have more strain on the system due to the pumps fighting each other but it will work. There are a lot of MasterCraft boats on the water, any X-Series boat from 2002 to 2005, with this system and those people are still filling and draining ballast.

We do sell them more check valves and impellers than anyone else but that's life and in the grand scheme of things it isn't a huge expense.

If I were going to put this system in my boat I would use 3/4" bronze thru-hull fittings and ball valves then adapt up to 1" hose. For the bags that are going to be on the seats just use a Fly High Air Release valve (Part# 33049) and that way you can vent without having more hoses connected.

Looks like a fun project. Have a good time and enjoy your season.

Last edited by spencerwm; 03-19-2014 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Forgot the image
Old    Todd (antoddio)      Join Date: Dec 2006       03-19-2014, 10:27 AM Reply   
Awesome! Thanks for that. Do you still think I will have issues with slowing the pumps down if I use a 1.25 or 1.5 inlet and an equally large hose to fill the manifold? They may take a second or two longer to prime but I'm okay with that. Finding spots for three intakes without interfering with the speedo or raw water intake just looks tough and knuckle busting.


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Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       03-19-2014, 10:53 AM Reply   
Todd,

A 1.5" thru-hull setup with 4-way cross right on top of the ball valve is more than ample to support your 3 pump setup. But, compare the cost of a single bronze thru-hull setup to 3 single 3/4" thru-hull/ball valve setups as it may not be too far off.
Old    Spencer (spencerwm)      Join Date: Feb 2009       03-19-2014, 1:44 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
Todd,

A 1.5" thru-hull setup with 4-way cross right on top of the ball valve is more than ample to support your 3 pump setup. But, compare the cost of a single bronze thru-hull setup to 3 single 3/4" thru-hull/ball valve setups as it may not be too far off.
Mike is right. Capacity is not really the issue here. Those larger bronze products are expensive.
Old    Bwake (bwake)      Join Date: Sep 2009       03-19-2014, 8:58 PM Reply   
I also have one single through hull feeding 3 Jabsco pumps which works fine. I havent got a manifold, just two basic t sections, one t'ing into the front pump, and the other a t which splits the two rear pumps. Filling is fast, emptying is fast, i couldnt be happier.

Got the parts from wakemakers who were good to deal with.

I also went with a nylon fitting for my through hull. They are incredibly strong well tested, and cost half the amount of bronze. WOrth a thought
Old    Daniel (cowwboy)      Join Date: Jul 2008       03-20-2014, 6:14 AM Reply   
Personally, I would skip all of the extra costs at the hardware store and have the pumps feed and drain from the through hull.
My ballast puppy is kind of loud and it's easy to tell when it's done emptying.

But it's your money and your boat that your adding holes to.

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