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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-02-2016, 1:44 PM Reply   
OMG I bit off way more then I can Chew. My wife brings home this Teak Set she bought from a friend. She knows her husband (me) is the "Teak Master" when it comes to our little 3 X 5 Teak swim deck. She figures WTH my husband can refinish that thing in No time.
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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-02-2016, 1:49 PM Reply   
Well many many Hrs Later IM DONE not as in Im finished, Im DONE as in Over it! I still have 6 Chairs to refinish and I cant muster the want to get near the sander.
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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-02-2016, 1:50 PM Reply   
This stuff sure is nice but I don't think I wanna have to refinish every how many years?
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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-02-2016, 1:52 PM Reply   
I should have just refinished the top of the table and moved on But I had to take the table fully apart and refinish and oil every piece even the underside of the table is refinished,
Old    David Keith (VanillaGorilla)      Join Date: Nov 2015       08-02-2016, 4:12 PM Reply   
Night and day difference. Good work!
Old    Nacho (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       08-03-2016, 9:06 AM Reply   
cool set and it looks great
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-03-2016, 9:09 AM Reply   
Here is what the Chairs look like
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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-03-2016, 9:11 AM Reply   
I have never done the "Quick and Fast" teak refinishing. But I think if I could get these chairs looking nice in a rather short time I would think about diving in and keeping the set.
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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-03-2016, 9:14 AM Reply   
So stupid question what's involved in the off the shelf Teak Refinishing kits.

I have been traditionally sanding with 120 then 220 then 320 then depending on the finish either going to 400 or just stopping there. Then I use Boiled Lin Sead Oil.
I have heard rumors of light pressure washing and then a oil or varnish anyone know about this refinishing style????
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Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-03-2016, 9:16 AM Reply   
These chairs are pretty cool. You lift up the arm rests and they can recline
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Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-03-2016, 3:26 PM Reply   
Looks like a nice set. The chairs even have lumbar support. I always wonder how you don't stain your clothes on teak after you've refinished it. There has to be SOME residual oil right?
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-04-2016, 7:19 AM Reply   
If you put the oil on real thick it will soak into the wood with in a few days after a week it's either absorbed or it magically Gos away? So I usually do 2 thinner coats 1-2 days apart. There would be no oil transfer to clothes, you just have to apply it in a manner where it's not pooling or on the surface, the teak is very porous and soaks up a lot
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-04-2016, 8:57 AM Reply   
Okay. Based on your earlier post, it sounds like you've never done the "quick teak refinish"? If that's true, (and that's hard to believe you of all people haven't done it) it's really easy and simple. Besides following the instructions on using the part A and part B, I always used to do a light sanding after the wood had dried. I never sanded the whole thing down to clean it. That would be a ton of work. After doing the quick refinish, it always raises the grain of the wood. That's why I always did some light sanding on the areas that people came in contact with. No need for that with the areas under your chairs like the legs and in between or behind the back rests etc.
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-04-2016, 9:04 AM Reply   
Also, the fun part about the quick clean after you've applied the part A and scrubbed a little is watching what the part B does. It's like brand new wood with minimal effort. All you need is a quick clean kit, a hose and a scrub brush.
Old    Joe Condon (jcon44)      Join Date: Aug 2012       08-04-2016, 9:07 AM Reply   
I've used starbright teak cleaner and then sealer on some chairs, supposed to last a year but this was only a month ago so I'm not sure how long it lasts. Those chairs look better than mine did. It's a quick and easy process. scrub with the cleaner, let dry over night and seal it, done.
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-04-2016, 10:09 AM Reply   
Yes Never done the Part A & Part B scrub method. But that sounds like it's right up my alley for the chairs. I don't mind sanding the areas that you come in contact with that would cut my sanding work down to very little. The chairs as you can see have lots of nooks & cranny's and completely sanding them would take lots of time. I will try the quick and easy style and see how it works out on 1 chair. Me thinks I may have to take a chair completely apart to do a good job. I may do 1-2 chairs the real nice way (thoes would be the ones we use 99% of the time and then just do the wick and easy on the rest
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-04-2016, 10:47 AM Reply   
Start with quick and easy first. You have nothing to lose and the stuff is cheap. I think you'll be amazed plus you'll have more time to do other things. I dare say that the quick way will leave you with cleaner teak than sanding plus you won't be removing all that wood material. West Marine stocks the stuff. I like the Starbright brand too.

One other thing: You see how your center piece of your table looks different than the end pieces? I'm betting that difference would probably go away if you used the teak cleaner way.
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-04-2016, 12:17 PM Reply   
Mark; I see what your talking about with the center piece. I'm pretty sure it's because the center piece was always folded up and it got wet being outside in the rain and it looks like it may had some mold/or green in the wood. I bet the starbright would get down on the green.
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-04-2016, 6:11 PM Reply   
Yep. I'm anxious to see the difference after you've done your first chair. If you have some stubborn areas like little crevices you can't reach with a scrub brush, let the part A sit and soak for a little while and lightly pressure wash those crevices. Also, you'll be surprised at the nasty dark muck that gets released in this process.
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-05-2016, 7:27 AM Reply   
One last question: do you think the quick style refinishing will take off anymore existing varnish or clears? If you look at the unfinished chairs you might be able to spot what looks like Yellow'd clear coat or some sort of stain or varnish, I have no idea what it is. But this stuff needed to be sanded off to expose the teak, just wondering if the A & B process would strip this clear stuff off. I was planning on doing a light pressure was and then doing the quick style refinishing job. I was thinking of just doing 1 chair complete and seeing how it comes out before I attack all 6
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-05-2016, 7:38 AM Reply   
Unfortunately, no. That's a major bummer if there's varnish or clear coat on them.
Old    Joe Condon (jcon44)      Join Date: Aug 2012       08-05-2016, 9:23 AM Reply   
I've read you should not pressure wash teak but that's just what I saw on the internet. Table looks great by the way.
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-05-2016, 9:24 AM Reply   
Crap! Well that sucks. The stuff that's On them seems like a clear that has all but broken down. But you can clearly see a stop start line if you were to leave any of it on.
I did a test chair where I pressure washed it and 80-90% of the old clear or varnish came off.
Old    Shawndoggy (shawndoggy)      Join Date: Nov 2009       08-05-2016, 9:43 AM Reply   
At this point if you already pressure washed one, what do you have to lose. Do the pressure wash / quick finish and see what you get.

I agree that table looks friggin awesome. I love well cared for teak. Just beautiful!
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       08-05-2016, 9:49 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by grant_west View Post
Crap! Well that sucks. The stuff that's On them seems like a clear that has all but broken down. But you can clearly see a stop start line if you were to leave any of it on.
I did a test chair where I pressure washed it and 80-90% of the old clear or varnish came off.
That's actually good news. You only have to sand 10%-20% right? Then you can hit it with Starbrite and enjoy your new furniture.
Old    "G" (grant_west)      Join Date: Jun 2005       08-05-2016, 11:12 AM Reply   
This is my swim deck, when you sand it to the upper grits the wood gets so soft, and smooth the weird thing is it's Not slippery
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Old    Brett W (brettw)      Join Date: Jul 2007       08-07-2016, 7:31 AM Reply   
I have a similar very nice set that I've had for about 13 years now. I used to sand it, but it's a huge pain, Now, every couple of years, I just pressure wash and oil it, and it comes out great. It looks about the same as yours when you started and finished. I just sand down the arm rests a little to make em smooth again.
Old    Brett W (brettw)      Join Date: Jul 2007       08-07-2016, 7:36 AM Reply   
Found the pics. Takes me about 3 hours start to finish. I could do better but honestly just don't want to spend more time since this is a regular project.
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Old    Jason Buffalow (buffalow)      Join Date: Apr 2002       08-08-2016, 7:46 AM Reply   
What about the Fence bleach/restore stuff? you mix with water and spray on, leave 10-15 minutes and than pressure wash. I did this for my fences that were in bad shape and than stained and it came out awesome. I started by sanding a few boards in the beginning and was like hell no. Not the best photo but you get the idea.
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