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Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-23-2013, 10:04 AM Reply   
So I was running two battery's in the boat.. Yesterday I moved my house battery up front to under the glove box in that storage area to make room for extra fat sacs I bought and I moved the amps from under the steering wheel to that same compartment as the house battery. Problem is that now both my alpine amps are going into protect mode when I flip them on. I thought it was a problem with the remote wire so I ran a single wire to just one amp and same thing... I'm confused and have no clue what the problem is. Could it have something to do with a shorter length of wire between the amps and battery and maybe the wrong gauge wire? It all worked just fine before I moved it all and I haven't changed anything other than where the battery and amps were.. Any ideas guys?:bang head:
Old    Ben R (brichter14)      Join Date: Jul 2010       06-23-2013, 10:10 AM Reply   
Sounds like a bad ground.
Old    Ian Ashton (ian_ashton)      Join Date: Jul 2008       06-23-2013, 10:15 AM Reply   
I bet you've got a short in speaker wires. Check we're they connect to the amp first, make sure none of the +/- are touching.

If your good there disconnect one at a time from the amp, flip it on - if it goes into protect keep going, if not you just found the shorted channel, trace the wires and go from there.
Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-23-2013, 10:39 AM Reply   
Ok... Ill try the speaker wires first. I don't think its a bad ground bc its all right there, I don't see how it could not be grounding. I really really hope its not a short inside the tower
Old    Connor (Camsquared211)      Join Date: Jun 2013       06-23-2013, 11:51 AM Reply   
If its not your ground, speaker wires, or fuses...
Try testing the voltage on the terminals to the amp. Some amps go into protection mode when the voltage is low. I would try recharging your battery anyway. Something could have been left on while you were working on your boat. Amps don't like running when the battery doesn't have a good charge.
Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-23-2013, 12:01 PM Reply   
I used a small jumper wire and jumped from the remote hook up on the amp to the 12volt+ and the amp came on and speakers work just perfect. So I'm thinking the remote is the problem. Could the head unit not have enough power to push current through a long stretch of remote wire to reach the amps? I'm going from the head unit, out the front into the bow storage, across the bow storage, and into the storage compartment under the glove box.
Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-23-2013, 12:16 PM Reply   
I'm also not getting any power from the remote wire on the hu.. Hooked up a test light to it grounded to the battery and flipped my acc switch and got nothing.
Old    TigeMike (chpthril)      Join Date: Oct 2007       06-23-2013, 2:17 PM Reply   
If you used a 12v test lamp on the head-units remote turn-on wire to test it, you may have shorted it. That test lamp could possibly pull more current then that circuit is intended to carry. But, I do not see a lack of voltage on the turn-on circuit putting an amp into protect mode. No voltage means no turn on. The amp wont know the head-unit is trying to turn on, it just knows when there is or isnt voltage on that circuit.

I would get a volt meter and start at the battery, then go to the amp's B+ anf B- terminals, then the head-unit's yellow B+ and B- and red turn-on wire. Next, text the blue-wht amp turn-on wire for voltage with the meter at the amp, then at the head-unit if the amps do not turn on.
Old    Earmark Marine (david_e_m)      Join Date: Jul 2008       06-23-2013, 5:42 PM Reply   
If two amplifiers are both showing the same behavior then you have already narrowed it down to something they both have in common. Any shared speaker wires would be a major mistake.
Re-establish that all supply B+, grounds, and the remote turn-on are good as those are all common to both amplifiers. Connections/terminations that look good visually may not be as tight as they should be. Voltages that measure fine with no load may measure differently under load. Make sure that ALL audio equipment is supplied from the same battery. Verify that the source unit has a solid ground.
Both batteries must be grounded together and ground to the engine block.
Confirm the helm ground buss is connected.

David
Earmark Marine
Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-23-2013, 8:25 PM Reply   
The amps don't share any connection except the remote wire. The house battery isn't hooked up to the drive battery at the moment bc i didn't get around to running wires from the drive battery to the house battery yet. I was just using the battery unhooked to test the amps out.. I don[t get why the remote isn't working off the back of the head unit. Like i said i can jump from the 12V+ to the remote and amp powers on and everything works fine. I even tried jumping the remote wire to the power wire that goes from the head unit to the aux switch and it did the same thing.. Wouldn't power on the amp..
Old    Connor (Camsquared211)      Join Date: Jun 2013       06-23-2013, 8:38 PM Reply   
Did you have both your amps spliced to the same remote wire coming out of the deck? If so the remote wire on the deck may have been fried. Some decks are meant to only power 1 amp remote wire. To avoid this problem people usually install a relay so it does not strain the deck. There are other ways to hook up your remote wire if the head unit remote output is fried so dont worry!
Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-23-2013, 9:09 PM Reply   
yea im about 90% sure i fried the remote wire with the 2 amps... But what confused me more is that when I spliced into the power wire going from the HU to the aux switch with the remote wire on the amp it still didn't power up the amp...
Old    Connor (Camsquared211)      Join Date: Jun 2013       06-23-2013, 9:17 PM Reply   
So from my understanding you have a 12 v switch that turns on and off the hu? And you tried to splice the amp remote into there? Did you check the voltage of the closed switch?
Old    Ross (CTXxRoss)      Join Date: Apr 2013       06-24-2013, 6:19 AM Reply   
No... Shouldn't the voltage on the closed switch be nothing? But your are correct, it's a 12V aux switch that turns my HU on and off.
Old    Connor (Camsquared211)      Join Date: Jun 2013       06-24-2013, 12:37 PM Reply   
Well the voltage of a closed switch means the circuit is "closed" meaning it is in the "on" position. I think thats what you meant tho. One important thing to think about before you connect the remote wire of the amps to the aux switch you have... Is the aux switch supplying power to the head unit or is it supplying power to the remote switch of the hu? also (sometimes the power and the remote wire is spliced together). If the aux switch is supplying power to the unit there should be no problem with running the remote wire to the aux switch because that power line is meant to drive the hu. (its a good Idea to make sure the line is supplying a constant 12v)
On the other hand, if the aux switch is only supplying power to the remote switch of the hu, then you should check the specs of that switch and see how much that one line can support. (You dont want to fry the power line if it is only rated for one remote line; just like the back of the head unit).
The safest way to go is to make switches to turn on and off each amp all on seperate power lines. This is so you can choose what amp you want to run at any given moment. We all know, no one likes the jerk blasting tower speakers coming out of a residential marina on a Sunday morning!
The problem you are having seems odd to me. I hope this helps!

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