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Old    Dennis Sawyer (sawyer1206)      Join Date: Apr 2012       05-13-2012, 8:58 PM Reply   
I implemented my plans to replace the dry rotted bunk carpet on my trailer and it turned out to be quite an undertaking. If I had it to do again I would have measured all the bunks and made new ready to bolt on bunks reducing the install time dramatically. I also would have spent the money for an electric stapler to prevent the blisters I got form the 2000 staples I put in. Attached some before and after pics and I am pleased with the way they turned out.

Photobucket

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Old    Zach (zacharoo)      Join Date: Nov 2005       05-13-2012, 9:04 PM Reply   
Nice job, they look great.
Old    KDA (idaho_hillbilly)      Join Date: Jun 2009       05-13-2012, 10:30 PM Reply   
Nice job!

I did that several years ago....not fun job. I couldn't image doing it with a manual stapler! I pre-made my bunks and then launched and tied down my boat and replaced the bunks in the parking lot.
Old    Dennis Sawyer (sawyer1206)      Join Date: Apr 2012       05-14-2012, 6:35 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by idaho_hillbilly View Post
Nice job!

I did that several years ago....not fun job. I couldn't image doing it with a manual stapler! I pre-made my bunks and then launched and tied down my boat and replaced the bunks in the parking lot.
That is what i will do next time for sure!!
Old    Timmy! (timmyb)      Join Date: Apr 2007       05-14-2012, 8:07 AM Reply   
Nice work! I just measured mine and made new ones and then did it at the lake while the boat was in the water, much easier! I used a pneumatic stapler (for brads/staples) and it went pretty quick.
Old    Sean Griswold (seangriswold)      Join Date: Apr 2006       05-14-2012, 8:45 AM Reply   
looks good man! I just did mine 2 weeks ago at the lake. Dropped the boat in and pulled the bunks off and went to town with a hand stapler. The one I picked up didn't give me blisters it was pretty easy to squeeze(arrow power shot staple gun). I was not able to get one of the bunks off and that made the project take much longer than planned....
Attached Images
 
Old    Stuey (stuey)      Join Date: Dec 2004       05-16-2012, 9:34 AM Reply   
I need to do this as I notice the corners of my front bunks are starting to wear through... what are you guys using for carpet and what's the best/longest lasting stuff to get?
Old    Dave (davenk)      Join Date: Feb 2008       05-16-2012, 11:58 AM Reply   
We put new bunks and carpet on my dads trailer last summer, West Marine sells bunk carpet. We got treated wood and stainless staples from Lowe's. There was a debate previously as to which type of staples to use, stainless and something else (can't remember) we used stainless and trailer goes in saltwater.
Old    Bhyatt (bhyatt_ohp)      Join Date: Oct 2007       05-16-2012, 1:43 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuey View Post
I need to do this as I notice the corners of my front bunks are starting to wear through... what are you guys using for carpet and what's the best/longest lasting stuff to get?
A couple of end pieces are mine are wearing too. Couldn't you just take a razor knife, cut out the bad section of carpet and cut a new piece of carpet butted up against the existing that wasn't damaged? Has anyone tried that to cut down on carpet cost? I've got a BoatMate trailer and looking on their website, they want $35 for a 14ftx 10" section of carpet. 90% of my carpet is still in good condition.
Old    John Gunnels (cragrat)      Join Date: Mar 2012       05-16-2012, 1:55 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhyatt_ohp View Post
A couple of end pieces are mine are wearing too. Couldn't you just take a razor knife, cut out the bad section of carpet and cut a new piece of carpet butted up against the existing that wasn't damaged? Has anyone tried that to cut down on carpet cost? I've got a BoatMate trailer and looking on their website, they want $35 for a 14ftx 10" section of carpet. 90% of my carpet is still in good condition.
Having been in the carpet business for 30 years, I think I can answer this question.

It "might" work... but it will definitely be a temporary fix. Even marine grade needle bond carpet will delaminate or "fray" when exposed to the elements over a period of time. When you wrap the entire bunk, the problem areas (cut edges) are concealed under the bunk. When "butted together" on top of the bunk, elements will cause it to fail. Seam sealing the carpet edges with $12 solvent based seam sealer will help... but not eliminate the problem. If you don't mind a band aid approach, then go for it. But for long term performance, get after it!
Old    KEVIN (kko13)      Join Date: Jul 2006       05-17-2012, 2:14 AM Reply   
Turned out nice,,congrats. i redid mine a couple of months ago and cant even imagine using a hand stapler. Idid some research when I did mine. The trailer company we deal with said not to use pressure treated wood and use monel staples. i had already bought the SS from home depot. They said READ the lable. Sure enough it said on the back NOT for marine use, So I returned them got the monel at almost douple the cost of the SS and proceded. This little project although not hard did take a little more time than I thought it would as well.
Old    David Langston (rdlangston13)      Join Date: Feb 2011       05-27-2012, 6:13 PM Reply   
i broke both rules last summer when i did mine. i used stainless steel staples and pressure treated wood. no issues as of yet. i also ditched the lag bolts and through bolted all my bunks with stainless steel hardware
Old    David Langston (rdlangston13)      Join Date: Feb 2011       05-27-2012, 6:34 PM Reply   
Old    T (k59)      Join Date: Sep 2011       02-20-2013, 3:16 AM Reply   
Can you expand on why not to use stainless and not to use pressure treated wood? I was told specifically that these are the items to use when replacing my bunks... Any help on this would be great, since I'm gonna have to do it myself.
Old    Nate Nemire (nemire12)      Join Date: Jun 2009       02-20-2013, 6:28 AM Reply   
Using monel vs stainless in the marine environment is a load of BS in my opinion. Unless the staple is permanently under water then stainless will be just fine. I did all my bunks about 4 years ago using materials all from Lowes for less than $80 and it's still holding up well, probably got another 2 seasons left in them. Then I'll have a real job cause the whole trailer will need painted and the bunk mounts refabbed and welded on.
Old    Chattwake (chattwake)      Join Date: Jan 2010       02-20-2013, 6:41 AM Reply   
Oh man. This thread brought back memories of having to replace the bunks and carpet on the trailer for my '02 XStar when I was in lawschool. Lord, that was a nasty, pain in the butt, two day job. I agree that a paslode staple gun is a must, and is well worth renting to do this job. I'll just stick to flipping boats every year to avoid having to ever do this again. Ugh.

As an aside, has anyone ever considered using trex or a similar decking material for bunks?
Old    Tuneman (tuneman)      Join Date: Mar 2002       02-20-2013, 7:17 AM Reply   
Trex is essentially particle board. I think that would be a very bad idea. No strength.

Stainless staples are totally fine to use on trailer bunks if you run in fresh water. Monel staples are nickel and copper and are virtually rust proof. So, if you run in salt/brackish water, I'd go monel.

The outdoor carpet at Home Depot is all you need. I've always double wrapped the front bunks to really cut down on the wear.
Old    Cobra Rob (CobraRob)      Join Date: Aug 2010       02-21-2013, 9:30 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by chattwake View Post
Oh man. This thread brought back memories of having to replace the bunks and carpet on the trailer for my '02 XStar when I was in lawschool. Lord, that was a nasty, pain in the butt, two day job. I agree that a paslode staple gun is a must, and is well worth renting to do this job. I'll just stick to flipping boats every year to avoid having to ever do this again. Ugh.

As an aside, has anyone ever considered using trex or a similar decking material for bunks?
There is http://www.ultimatebunkboards.com/

If it would't cost me like $500 I might consider them.
Old     (will5150)      Join Date: Oct 2002       02-21-2013, 11:34 AM Reply   
Did mine one or two at a time over the last cople of years. Pre-made, then launch, replace load. Was pretty simple. Pressure treated lumber, Stainless staples and glued the carpet to the bunks - working great!
Old    BILL RUTH (wdr)      Join Date: Dec 2011       02-22-2013, 8:34 PM Reply   
Did my trailer like the rest of you with SS staples and pressured treated lumber. Between the table saw and the router I angled and radiused all of the sharp edges to reduce the tears on the corners and glued the carpet on with marine grade glue in case a corner started to peel like on my last bunks. Last year there was some heated debate and lengthy rants on the evils of using PTL because of the corrosive effects of the chemicals used to treat the wood on the fasteners/lag bolts. If it was the space shuttle I might be concerned about corrosion, but I replace the fasteners when I replace the carpet so I really don't see the need to worry about it.
Old    Detox (bass10after)      Join Date: Feb 2010       02-23-2013, 9:03 AM Reply   
where'd you guys order the carpet from? overton's seems pricey. How many oz should i be looking for? I gotta tackle this project pretty soon as well.
Old    Eric (DenverRider)      Join Date: Feb 2013       02-23-2013, 9:25 AM Reply   
If you don't use pressure treated lumber then what are you supposed to use? Is it an environmental thing? Are you supposed to use cedar/redwood or is there a synthetic material that is supposed to be used?
Old    Ron (Nordicron)      Join Date: Aug 2011       02-23-2013, 9:54 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenverRider View Post
If you don't use pressure treated lumber then what are you supposed to use? Is it an environmental thing? Are you supposed to use cedar/redwood or is there a synthetic material that is supposed to be used?
I'd like to know also as I need to put new carpet on the bunks this spring. I think my wood is in good shape though but if it's faster/easier to replace the boards too then I might go that route. Someone should have a trailer company contact they can email for advice?
Old    Hey, You scratched my anchor! (bftskir)      Join Date: Jan 2004       02-23-2013, 6:38 PM Reply   
pressure treated is not needed just the regular pine 2x6's 2x4's work just fine, try to pick good pcs with few knots

Don't try to reinvent the bunk.
Old    BILL RUTH (wdr)      Join Date: Dec 2011       02-23-2013, 9:25 PM Reply   
As for the carpet, I looked everywhere and couldn't find anything either heavy enough or wide enough to fit my 2x10 bunk boards. I ended up going to the place I got my home carpeting from and bought some non-backed outdoor carpet. They cut it to my specs length and width in about 5 minutes worth of work. It was about $60.00 and tax and fit like a charm. Like bftskir said, PTL isn't really needed and it is IIRC about $2-3.00 more expensive per board. For me it just seems more rigid and not as soft (due to the pressure treatment) than std construction grade lumber. I do like the thru bolt job that David did, but I built mine in the shop and then put them on right after I launched on day so I just screwed them in from the bottom like OEM.
Old    Jesse (NotSure123)      Join Date: Nov 2012       02-24-2013, 12:04 AM Reply   
EBAY! That's where I got mine from...crap ton of different places selling. I got some "heavy duty" and have been on two years and still looks perfect...just type in "trailer bunk carpet" and go from there!!

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