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Old    Shawn (skuhleman)      Join Date: Aug 2011       04-10-2012, 6:45 AM Reply   
Hey guys, I need to replace my bunks sometime this year and not sure what wood or carpet to use.

What wood do I need to use for lasting another 10+ years
What carpet holds up well?

Where can I get either of these items?

Thanks for the help guys!
Old    BILL RUTH (wdr)      Join Date: Dec 2011       04-10-2012, 7:04 AM Reply   
SK, redid the bunks on my '10 Boat Mate TA even though it was almost new. The carpet on my bunks where they hit on my LSV were shreded due to the right angles on the boards and I don't power load! I bought new treated lumber (Lowes) and radiused/rounded the sides of the bunks and the approach ends of the bunks so there were no sharp edges. I bought a 1/2 gallon of marine grade adhesive and SS staples (Lowes) to attach the carpet. The carpet (local shop) was the hardest job to find i.e. good grade in the correct color. Online suppliers for bunk carpeting don't sell it in the widths bigger bunks require. Seems no one makes a good I/O carpet in black so I hard to settle for a blk/grey combo that appears to be almost like Berber loops. The carpet place I bought it from cut it to my dimension at no charge so that saved me alot of pain, IIRC it was all of $70.00 in material so it was well woth the cost. So far it has worked really well. Good luck, Bill
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       04-10-2012, 7:11 AM Reply   
I did mine two years ago with pressure treated lumber and black indoor/outdoor carpet all from Home Depot. It still looks new. It cost 50-60 bucks. I didn't use any glue. I only used staples. Most staples you buy are either stainless or galvanized.
Old    Rob (DealsGapCobra)      Join Date: May 2010       04-10-2012, 7:49 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by markj View Post
I did mine two years ago with pressure treated lumber and black indoor/outdoor carpet all from Home Depot. It still looks new. It cost 50-60 bucks. I didn't use any glue. I only used staples. Most staples you buy are either stainless or galvanized.
I did the same to my old boat trailer...used it for at least 7 years and it still looked good.
Old    Who Cares (liljohn)      Join Date: May 2007       04-10-2012, 8:34 AM Reply   
DO NOT USE PT WOOD! Read the info in the link provided..
http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/PTWoodFAQs.html
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       04-10-2012, 9:08 AM Reply   
^^^^^Why not? Because of arsenic? My bunk wood only lasted 4 years before it was rotted out and my trailer only sees water maybe 6 times a year since I'm on a Hydro Hoist most of the year. Btw, isn't every wood piling for marinas and wood used on private and public docks pressure treated?
Old    BILL RUTH (wdr)      Join Date: Dec 2011       04-10-2012, 9:15 AM Reply   
liljohn, read the article and other than an increase of corrosion to fasteners and the CC"Arsenic" issue from the saw dust when cutting the wood, I didn't see where PTA would be an issue. Other than the documented health issues which can be eliminated with correct safety gear I am not seeing the down side to the PTA over untreated. IME, untreated lumber is cheaper than PTA, but holds more water and will ultimately rot sooner than PTA. Granted most trailers only see limited water time unless left outside w/o a boat on them, so the cost/risk to benefit could be argued.
Old    Who Cares (liljohn)      Join Date: May 2007       04-10-2012, 11:26 AM Reply   
This is why I say what I say. If you actualy take the time to read maybe you would get it. FYI I work with this stuff daily currently 60% of my buisness is from yahoos that didn`t / don`t read. Anytime you purchase PT lumber you should be given a flyer explaining the corrosive properties. quoted from the link I posted.

"Are these alternative products more corrosive than CCA-C?

Testing has indicated that some of the alternative products are more corrosive to steel and some protective coatings applied over steel than Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA-C). "

"What metals and protective coatings does the Treated Wood Industry recommend for use with these products?


Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fasteners, anchors and hardware are recommended by the Preservative Treated Wood Industry for use with treated wood. This has been the position of this industry for years and their position has not changed with the transition to the alternative copper-based products. In the past this industry did not address the required levels of galvanizing, however most of those in the industry now provide information regarding the minimum level of galvanizing that should be used.

The thicker the galvanized coating the longer the expected service life of the fastener, connector, anchor, or other hardware will be.

Electroplated / electro galvanized and mechanically galvanized coatings should not be considered to be hot-dip galvanized. (Class 55, or higher, mechanical galvanizing provides galvanizing equivalent to the hot-dip galvanizing used on connectors and fasteners. Ref. ASTM B695 for additional information.)

It is also worth noting that the galvanized coating thickness varies depending on the galvanizing process used. Remember, the thicker the galvanized coating, the longer the expected service life of the steel will be. "
Old    Who Cares (liljohn)      Join Date: May 2007       04-10-2012, 11:29 AM Reply   
@Bill- last time I checked most of our trailers are steel or aluminum. neither metal plays nice with the PT wood. I have literaly seen 5/8" bolts reduced to the size nails in a matter of 2-3 years.
Old    Shawn (skuhleman)      Join Date: Aug 2011       04-10-2012, 12:22 PM Reply   
Yea I am using stainless steel hardware and staples, but I didn't think about the PT wood damaging my trailer. So liljohn what do you reccomend then? Preferably something I can get a lowes or a lumber yard.
Old    BILL RUTH (wdr)      Join Date: Dec 2011       04-10-2012, 12:54 PM Reply   
SK, if you discount the PT lumber your only option is most likely going to end up being non-treated lumber which you could treat yourself with Linseed oil etc.. Most Lowes/Home Depots carry composite type replacements for wood for decks, but I believe I have only seen them in 1" thicknesses (ICBW) and they are typically 9 times the price of wood. I personally haven't seen (on my trailers) what would appear to be damage from PT lumber which would typically be seen at the point of attachment to the trailer. I can say (as liljohn states), that on almost every trailer that I have ever seen, that the bunk fasteners exhibit the effects of moderate to severe corrosion. Even my '10 BoatMate the bunk fasteners looked like they were 10 years old or more. If you go the PT route stainless would be the way to go or replace the cheaper fasteners every 2 years or so.
Old    Who Cares (liljohn)      Join Date: May 2007       04-10-2012, 3:34 PM Reply   
lumber is cheap. buy the plain jain stuff. Use SS hardware so you can use it over and over. I dont intend to sound like a nag but my summer fun will be funded by PT wood and corrosin jobs.
Old    Hey, You scratched my anchor! (bftskir)      Join Date: Jan 2004       04-11-2012, 1:22 AM Reply   
the carpet wears out before any fastener or staples ever will...my last trailer bunks lasted 20 years before the carpet fell apart and one bunk grew fungus and was just plain rotted. I used untreated doug fir, staples and galv lags to replace the lags that were rusted to nails. on a 2X6 bunk I used 12" wide carpet from California Trailer. It seems most suppliers are using a pretty low grade carpet that has no backing.--which should dry quicker and more completely but probably won't last as long as the old stuff with backing.
Old    Matthew Bird (ldr)      Join Date: Nov 2002       04-13-2012, 11:55 AM Reply   
My boat is an 89 malibu and I had to replace the bunks in 09 so the originals lasted 20 years.

I went ahead and replaced with non PT lumber and marine carpet from Lowes.

recently I had some work done on my trailer by the original maker "VM trailers" and while i was there i found out that they also use non PT lumber. I figure if it's good enough for the oem trailer builder than it's good enough for me.
Old    Tallredrider (talltigeguy)      Join Date: Sep 2003       04-13-2012, 9:45 PM Reply   
My 06 had rotted bunks with regular wood from the manufacturer.

I replaced with PT wood and Stainless fasteners. Now liljohn tells me that my whole trailer is going to fall apart. I am not going to do that job again, so someone remind me to dredge up this thread in 2-3 years and see if he was right. I wonder if the carpet between the trailer mount and wood will be of any protection.

Last edited by talltigeguy; 04-13-2012 at 9:54 PM. Reason: ...
Old    Markj (markj)      Join Date: Apr 2005       04-14-2012, 1:09 AM Reply   
Amen brother. ^^^ I thought I had thought of everything by using PT wood with my 05. I'm struggling now with the idea of replacing my PT with Douglas Fir.
Old    Tom (boardjnky4)      Join Date: Dec 2011       04-14-2012, 4:34 AM Reply   
PT lumber is not meant to protect wood from water. It is meant to protect wood from insects, like termites. There is no advantage to using pressure treated lumber here.
Old     (will5150)      Join Date: Oct 2002       04-15-2012, 1:12 PM Reply   
I have done the skids on my trailer - did them about three years ago - used PT wood, Glued the carpet then stapled- No issues.
Old    Brett Treiber (pc_sledge)      Join Date: Jan 2006       04-15-2012, 2:37 PM Reply   
Wow, I know I trailer and launch a lot, but I usually have to replce my bunk carpeting, and sometimes the bunk(s) every other season. I use marine grade carpet and pressure treated wood when I do mine, I never have noticed any corrosion problems.
Old    Who Cares (liljohn)      Join Date: May 2007       04-16-2012, 7:37 AM Reply   
I never said your trailer would fall apart. but you will see corrosion. problem is you wont see it untill it is way to late.
Old    Sparky Jay (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       04-16-2012, 9:12 PM Reply   
Did mine with PT a few years ago and as always all stainless hardware over fresh Imron paint. Have seen no issues and no soft boards like the non PT OEM used that was shot after a few years.
Old    Shawn (skuhleman)      Join Date: Aug 2011       04-17-2012, 6:34 AM Reply   
Looks like pressure treated wood and outdoor carpet from lowes is the way to go. Thanks guys. 3 bunks are in perfect shape, but one has a rotten section right above the mount. But the carpet is a little worse for wear.
Old    Tallredrider (talltigeguy)      Join Date: Sep 2003       04-17-2012, 9:40 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by liljohn View Post
I never said your trailer would fall apart. but you will see corrosion. problem is you wont see it untill it is way to late.
I was exaggerating. But I for sure don't want to see the bunk supports rotting in a few years. It makes sense to me that copper in the wood is going to promote corrosion. I think it may help me living in an extremely dry enviroment that the water has very limited contact time with the boards and trailer. At least that is what I am hoping.

As for me, after doing some reading, I come to the same conclusion as Liljohn, and I would not use PT wood.

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