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Old    Jeff D (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-15-2011, 9:44 PM Reply   
The boat in question is an '00 MasterCraft 230 VRS (Slight V hull)

I'm 80% confident that my motorcycle is sold and therefore I will soon have the money to proceed with a ballast system but I can't decide on doing a large thru hull (1.25") with a manifold made out of 2 1.25" threaded tees joined together or 3 individual 3/4" thru hulls with the valves and pumps vertically right on top. Space is not much of a concern as I have plenty of it under and to the port side of the engine. The only problem with the space is that I may have trouble reaching the lever(s) on the valve(s) with the port side sac filled.

I've pretty much settled on Atwood T800 pumps because the 2-3 minute faster fill time that I will gain with a T1200 isn't worth it to me with all of the 1 1/8"-->3/4" adapters that I'd need combined with the more expensive 1" hose and fittings. I will be perfectly happy with a 10-15 minute fill time since it would be nearly impossible for me to be wakeboarding within 15 minutes of the hull touching the water regardless of how fast the pumps are.

With that out of the way for 3 pumps it would cost about the same amount for me to go with 3 individual 3/4" thru hulls w/ bronze or SS valves vs a 1.25" and fittings to plump all of the pumps to it. There would be some savings if I decided to add a 4th pump down the road but not much.

Here are my concerns:
-With the manifold I can use an elbow and get the pumps really low and mounted sideways but I'm more likely to trap air or generate turbulence and reduce the flow of the downstream pump(s).
-With the individual thru hulls, a valve on top and a pump on top I may be getting a bit tall and close to the water line and possible priming issues. I'd cut down the thru hull and inlet on the pumps to the minimum height but do the T800s do ok mounted vertically?
-With the manifold I could probably mount the valve far enough forward that I could reach it from under the rear middle seat with the manifold pointing towards the stern. With the individuals I'd have a harder time closing them when the ballast is full.

I've seen some OEMs that screw the pump straight into a female thru hull with no valve. That would get them low and it would be simple/cheap but It makes me a little uncomfortable to think about a hose in the hull, below the water line, leaking or coming loose and having no way to stop it quickly.

These thru hulls and valves are pretty low profile and would likely be my choice for an individual 3/4" solution:
http://bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1219
http://bakesonline.com/detail.aspx?ID=1220

Here's what I'd use for the 1.25"+Manifold:
http://www.wakemakers.com/thru-hull-...er-bronze.html
http://www.wakemakers.com/bronze-str...bow-1-1-4.html
http://www.wakemakers.com/brass-ball...-1-4-inch.html
http://www.wakemakers.com/1-1-4-inch...e-fitting.html
http://www.wakemakers.com/1-1-4-inch...h-bushing.html

Does anybody have any input on which is the best way to go?
Old    Jeff D (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-15-2011, 9:53 PM Reply   
Oh, I'm also aware of the Rule 1100 GPH with the 3/4" inlet. These are more appealing than the T1200s for me but I still don't feel like it's worth the extra money to have to plumb everything downstream with 1" hose and fittings not to mention the fact that the pumps are a minimum of $15 more each (x7=$105 more). Wakemakers has a great price on the T800s but their price on the Rule 1100s isn't as good (Compared to some other online sources that have them for around $33) but if I go elsewhere for them I will have to pay more shipping hence the $15-24 more per pump.
Old    Jamie Corvin (Bumpass1)      Join Date: Oct 2010       04-16-2011, 4:24 AM Reply   
Can't really offer much help at this time. I have found a post on another site that is appears to be well thought out and very well executed. It is on a Supra, but principals would be the same.

http://www.supraboats.com/bbs/showthread.php?t=4595
Old    Jon Hunter (hunter660)      Join Date: Aug 2007       04-16-2011, 5:40 AM Reply   
I went with 1" inlets that I then teed off on my MariStar. I did this on each side of the engine.



I plumbed everything thing up last summer and I can't believe I waited so long. If you have any questions just ask.
Old    Jeff D (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-16-2011, 6:47 AM Reply   
John, did you just plumb your rear bags? I'm trying to figure out where to mount my switches since I need 3. If I just had 2 it would be easy because I could swap the 2 ACC On-Off switches with some On-Off-On switches. The need for a 3rd switch for the bow sac messes everything up.

I was thinking I could mount them in the trim panel of the driver's arm rest. Or I could use toggle style switches and mount them in place of the unused speed control rocker switch and what not.
Old    Jeff D (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-16-2011, 6:49 AM Reply   
Oh, and if I remember correctly you're the guy who bought 750s for a MariStar 210 then regretted it and went to 400s. What's the fill time on those 400s with the Tsunami 1200s? Did you test your fill time with the 750s?
Old    Jon Hunter (hunter660)      Join Date: Aug 2007       04-16-2011, 7:43 AM Reply   
I installed 5 bags. Two up front, one in the ski locker, and two in the rear. I installed 4 rocker switches in the area above the driver's armrest. I'm on the road or I would post pictures. You can search for threads started by me and find them and a parts list I made for the install.

Yes, I tried 750s in the back and it did not work for me. I would like to try the 550s they make for the x2, but it's not worth the $$$. I should also mention I have 120 lbs of batteries in the rear storage as well.
Old     (frosty2469)      Join Date: Apr 2010       04-16-2011, 10:31 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
I'm trying to figure out where to mount my switches since I need 3. If I just had 2 it would be easy because I could swap the 2 ACC On-Off switches with some On-Off-On switches. The need for a 3rd switch for the bow sac messes everything up.

I was thinking I could mount them in the trim panel of the driver's arm rest. Or I could use toggle style switches and mount them in place of the unused speed control rocker switch and what not.
Jeff,

I mounted my ballast switches on the small panel just outboard of the steering wheel...the horn button & CB was all that was there, so I relocated them to the other side.

I have a '98 Maristar, so the dash is similar (identical?), I believe.

I don't have a finished picture, the top & bottom of the switch end up being about even with the top & bottom of the woodgrained panel (they are a bit taller than the standard Carlton switches, I think), maybe stick out a hair more, but it looks good.
Old    Jeff D (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-16-2011, 12:02 PM Reply   
How did you get the text on the woodgrain panel?
Old    Jeff D (Jeff)      Join Date: May 2010       04-16-2011, 2:14 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter660 View Post
You can search for threads started by me and find them and a parts list I made for the install.
I found your thread. I saw that you had check valves in your parts list but had issues with passive filling of the bags. Was that through the check valves?

I know that the check valves would still allow a little bit of water to be pushed through but then I was hoping enough water would accumulate past the valves, pushing back on the flap, and stopping the passive filling. If the check valves won't take care of that then I guess I'll have to do vented loops but they're more expensive and present some hose routing challenges.

Also, exactly where are your switches in the panel above the armrest? I'm trying to figure out the optimal spot that the driver won't bump with their elbow and still be easily accessible.
Old     (frosty2469)      Join Date: Apr 2010       04-16-2011, 2:55 PM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
How did you get the text on the woodgrain panel?
www.aplusmobilegraphics.com
Great people to work with... they have my dash up (lots of work!) and a more-or-less stock 1999 dash...
You can buy the pieces separately.
Have them make the switch cutouts about 1/16" or so smaller than mine were cut...there are lots of wires behind dash to push the switches out, and that would keep the switches from being pushed out. You can always make the holes larger with a file.

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