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Old     (Bakes)      Join Date: Mar 2010       08-27-2010, 10:22 PM Reply   
I am planning on staying out year round this year. I keep my boat in a covered spot without access to electricity. Essentially, just a spot outside with a roof and no walls.

Anyways, I live near Seattle and I want to do a quick winterization on my 350 MPI mercruiser (98 Tige 2200V) with a heater and a shower every time I pull it out during the colder months. Anybody have a quick winterization procedure they go through?

Right now I am thinking something along the lines of:

1) Disconnect and drain shower system (I never use it anyways)
2) Remove 5 (I think there are 5) blue drain plugs and let the water drain...put them back in.
3) Start motor and suck up antifreeze via Flush-Pro system
4) Done

Do I need to do anything else?
Will sucking antifreeze through the Flush Pro system (or a fake a lake with hose into a bucket of antifreeze) for a few seconds be enough to keep the block, vdrive, tranny and heater from freezing?
Approx how much antifreeze will I need each time I do this?
Any recs on an type of antifreeze for this?



PS--> If anyone has a link to a web page that has the "standard" winderization routine for a MPI Mercruiser V drive that would be great


Old     (rallyart)      Join Date: Nov 2006       08-27-2010, 11:49 PM Reply   
If you're using antifreeze don't worry about the drains for your winterization. Just make sure you have the engine revved up to 1600 RPM for at least 30 seconds to get the propylene glycol RV type antifreeze through your heaters and run it long enough to get antifreeze out both exhausts. Then pull the drain plugs. I've got 8 on my Scorpion but I don't know what the 350 MPI has.
I would do it differently though. I'd install a drain on the low spot on each heater line and open those and all the engine drains. (assuming you've disconnected the shower) Then I'd drive the boat around for a while on the trailer to get all the water sloshed out. Hills and turns are great for thins. You'd save money on the anti freeze and time.
Old     (autotunner69)      Join Date: Feb 2003       08-30-2010, 3:22 PM Reply   
I have the same engine and have had the boat for about 8-9 yrs and all was told when i bought it to run it to normal operating temp(120-140) and just pull the plugs and let the heat evaporate out the engine. I have done this since the first time i bought it and have never had an issue come spring time..EVER! and it is completely FREE! so if this is wrong to do then i have just been lucky as hell????
Old     (jason_b)      Join Date: Feb 2008       08-31-2010, 8:36 AM Reply   
I have the same engine and that's exactly what I do to winterize my boat. Just let it run on the fake-a-lake to get up to temperature before you suck up the antifreeze.
USE THE RV TYPE THAT IS NONTOXIC/LAKE FRIENDLY!!!!!! Do not use the regular car type antifreeze since it will be thrown into the lake when you start it back up in the lake. Use the RV stuff and you're fine, won't kill the wildlife.

I fill a 5 gallon bucket that I rigged up with a hose to feed the fake-a-lake. Set it on the swim platform and watch it. I spray in engine fogger when I have about a gallon or 1/2 gallon left in the bucket and then have my lovely assistant shut the engine down. If you really want to you can pull the spark plugs and add a tsp of oil to each cylinder (or a shot of fogging oil) but I'm not sure that's entirely necessary. I don;t do it, but I've read that's how some people do.

hope that helps
Old     (Bakes)      Join Date: Mar 2010       08-31-2010, 8:08 PM Reply   
Sweet....Thanks for the replies. Do you use the full 5 gallons or can I get away with 3 gallons? I plan on doing this on the ramp immediately after pulling it out of the lake so engine temp should not be an issue. I probably won't fog either as it won't sit for more than a week or so.

Now....anybody know any cheap sources for RV antifreeze? I plan on going out 3-5 times a month and really don't want to blow through $30 worth each time
Old     (jason_b)      Join Date: Feb 2008       09-01-2010, 7:33 AM Reply   
You could probably get away with 3 gallons. You'd just have to watch the exhaust to ensure you have good flow coming out both sides and then keep an eye on your AF level in the bucket. You're right on the need for fogging-skip it unless you're putting it up for a while.

I buy AF at Menards in the spring. It goes on sale for about 1/2 off. I just stock up then and leave it sit in the boat garage until I need it. If you're going to use that much, you may be able to find a bulk supplier--not sure where you'd find that though.
Old     (petrey10)      Join Date: Apr 2010       09-01-2010, 10:55 AM Reply   
so what is needed for a complete winterization if you are storing from october to april
Old     (jason_b)      Join Date: Feb 2008       09-01-2010, 12:33 PM Reply   

Run boat for a few minutes unti it reaches normal operating temp
Drain the water from the petcocks. (5)
Hook a fake-a-lake to 5 gallon bucket of ant-freeze (make sure you PRIME the line so it flows if you don't have a gravity fed system!!!)
Run the boat ensuring AF comes out both exhaust ports
Watch bucket until you have about 1/2 to 1 gallon left of AF
Spray fogging oil into air intake
Shut off engine as it is sputtering from the oil and BEFORE all of the AF is completely removed from the bucket
You can remove the spark plugs (when it cools) and pour in a lil bit of engine oil or fogging spary if you wish

I also take that time to replace all of the fluids throughout since it's warm and they flow easier when sucking them out.
Put gas stabilizer in the fuel tank
Place dessicant trays in all the storage compartments
303 the vinyl

Give her a kiss and a slap on the ass, let her know you'll miss her, and put her up for the winter.

I keep mine in a heated garage, but if I have to move it outside in the non-heated garage for some reason, I put a shop light with a 100 watt bulb in the engine compartment. You would be absolutely blown away how warm one little light bulb will keep that engine bay in even the most frigid temps!
Old     (cwb4me)      Join Date: Apr 2010       09-01-2010, 4:06 PM Reply   
bakes i have a heater and 350 in my 07 tige i use 3 gallons of antifreeze that is plenty .
Old     (sordave)      Join Date: May 2002       09-02-2010, 5:54 AM Reply   
If you pull the plugs to drain the water, why do you put anifreeze in? 15 years of boating and I have never used antifreeze - I just drain all the water out.
Old     (jason_b)      Join Date: Feb 2008       09-02-2010, 7:44 AM Reply   
^^^^^^ Residual water can be left in there, any water left will be thinned to a non freezable (if that's a word) state so you have no worries. My buddy has done exactly that, just draining and never using AF, for probably 15-20 years. Last summer he bought a new engine because of freeze damage. AF costs about $20 and takes 15 minutes to do--that's pretty darn cheap insurance IMO. I'll kep doing it. At least here in WI where it gets COLD as heck, maybe if I lived in FL, AZ, CA it'd be a different story.
Old     (tonyv420)      Join Date: Jul 2007       09-05-2010, 10:41 PM Reply   
I put a heater in the boat and run it on low, and pretty much keeps everything warm enough not to freeze. Cost for the electricity , but its worth it to me to have it ready to go spur of the moment.(heater in engine compartment)


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