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Old    Bill Connell (mrawdtsi)      Join Date: May 2009       06-01-2010, 7:47 AM Reply   
Hi Everyone,

did a quick search and didnt see anything that matched my issues, hoping someone here can help.

Im fairly well versed in fuel injection, but currently own a 2007 Reinell 207LS with the Volvo Penta 5.0L carburated engine. Only 57 hours on the clock.

This weekend, the boat started acting funny. The boat did not want to stay running in neutral, it would run for a few seconds, bog down then kill. I was able to get it started if i primed it a bit and tried to start, but would die again quickly.

If i gave it gas, it was fine, but idle was bad.

I am assuming this is either 1) a dirty air cleaner/filter? or 2) a bad fuel filter?

Has anyone experienced this, or have any advice?

I prefer to do my own work, and kind of learn along the way.

Thanks!

-Bill
Old    Trace (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       06-01-2010, 9:33 AM Reply   
Dirty fuel filter will cause problems on the top end, not at idle. Boats don't have replaceable air cleaners, just a spark arrestor. Not a bad idea to clean it, but unlikely it's your problem.

First time you've used it in a while? Sounds like the idle circuit in the carb got varnished over the winter layup. If Seafoam won't clear it up, time to pull & clean the carb.
Old    Bill Connell (mrawdtsi)      Join Date: May 2009       06-01-2010, 9:45 AM Reply   
thanks for your reply ^^

I had the boat out 5 times already this year, and it does have a new tank of gas, been through about half tank already. It was fine the first 4 trips this year, then all of sudden after this recent launch, it started.

im really trying to avoid taking it in to have it looked at. And im not too familiar with cleaning a carb, any tips?

Last edited by mrawdtsi; 06-01-2010 at 9:47 AM.
Old    C.I.E..... Evan (guido)      Join Date: Jul 2002       06-01-2010, 10:23 AM Reply   
If it was running fine, then just developed a problem, then it's likely as Trace said. Usually a bit or dirt or grit in one of the passages or jets. How difficult it is depends on how mechanical you are. Usually not too tough to take apart the float bowl and blow out all of the passages. Works best if you have some carb cleaner on hand and an air compressor. I'd need pics and specifics of the carb to get into more detail than that, but usually boat carbs are pretty basic 2 barrel carbs.
Old    Bill Connell (mrawdtsi)      Join Date: May 2009       06-01-2010, 10:32 AM Reply   
i will take it apart (partially) tonight and snap some pics. Ill also grab some seafoam and carb cleaner today on lunch.

Is this common in a carburated engine? Should i be cleaning this out fairly frequently?

Still new to carbs.

Thanks guys!
Old    Trace (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       06-01-2010, 11:56 AM Reply   
Boat carbs can be extremely reliable, but in practical use will give you some kind of trouble every 5 years or so in my experience. Extended layup, crappy marina gas, water in fuel, etc cause problems for carbs. The more regularly you run it, the less problems you'll have.

To echo Evan's comments... all you really need to do is separate the fuel bowl. This will allow you to clean the jets & float valve, which is all it should need. Post a pic of the carb before you start and we can probably save you some time. You'll need a rebuild kit or at least a few gaskets to put it back together properly.

Last edited by trace; 06-01-2010 at 11:58 AM.
Old    Bill Connell (mrawdtsi)      Join Date: May 2009       06-01-2010, 3:53 PM Reply   
Trace and Evan,

I picked up some seafoam and added it to the tank this afternoon, and also some carb cleaner.

Here are some pics of the carb. As you mentioned, its a 2 barrel. One thing i did notice is that the plate in the carb isnt closed all the way in neutral, it sits as is in the pic. im assuming this is to allow enough air to idle? pardon my ignorance on the subject.

What are my next steps? id hate to have to tear this down if i dont have to, but i will if necessary.

- Bill





Old    Steve Oh (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       06-02-2010, 8:02 AM Reply   
That plate is the choke and it should be wide open once the boat warms up. Looks like your choke needs to be adjusted. With the engine off and cool, loosen the black round thing on the left in the cylinder (that is the choke spring housing) and rotate it until the choke just closes. The spring is bimetallic and once it gets hot, it opens. It should take between 30secs - 2 minutes (by 5 minutes max) depending on how long you need the engine to warm up before it idles. The choke operates completely independent of the throttle. It is based purely on a hot/cold spring. It should fully open at all times once it opens.

The reason the boat is bogging in neutral is that the choke plate is blocking off the air supply. If you gas it, vacuum is opening the choke enough to run.



A few other things:

Spray the choke linkage with carb cleaner and verify it opens and closes smoothly. You should be able to move it very easily open and closed. It should also crack open like in the pic when you move the throttle with the engine off.

With the engine cool and the choke closed, bump the throttle, the choke should slightly open. Leave the key ON and the engine off, after a few minutes you should observe the choke open to full. If it doesn't, it either needs adjustment or replacing.

If the choke doesn't open/close with the rotation of the spring housing, the spring needs to be replaced.

Last edited by olskooltige; 06-02-2010 at 8:10 AM.
Old    Steve Oh (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       06-02-2010, 8:20 AM Reply   
I typed cylinder and meant picture. The black thing in the PICTURE is the choke spring housing.
Old    Bill Connell (mrawdtsi)      Join Date: May 2009       06-02-2010, 8:43 AM Reply   
Steve,

Thanks for the reply, that helps a lot.



edit: read your edit. That makes sense. i will pull the boat out of the garage this afternoon and see if it works correctly. Since this somehow came out of adjustment, do you think it was what was causing my idle issues?

The choke plate linkage was very loose and easy to move by hand. i sprayed it down well with carb cleaner just in case. Also, i noticed all of the linkage had a bit of play, from part to part, is that normal? or should the tolerances be tight?

thanks!

-Bill

Last edited by mrawdtsi; 06-02-2010 at 8:45 AM.
Old    Steve Oh (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       06-02-2010, 9:09 AM Reply   
No it should be very loose and easily moved by hand (or the choke spring).

Chokes need adjustment every now and then.

Watch this video. Your choke is opening too late or not at all if it isn't wide open after 5 minutes max. Ignore the fast idle cam info for now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0H5IBSFgYJE

Last edited by olskooltige; 06-02-2010 at 9:12 AM.
Old    Trace (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       06-02-2010, 1:12 PM Reply   
Yes, start simple and adjust the choke first. If that doesn't do it, I'd pull it off and clean it. The float bowl is the little box on the front with the fuel line fitting threaded into it.

Be careful with copious amounts of carb cleaner. It will eat rubber and plastic parts.
Old    C.I.E..... Evan (guido)      Join Date: Jul 2002       06-02-2010, 6:45 PM Reply   
I didn't get the last pic for some reason, but I completely agree with these guys. Choke should be wide open when the motor is running at full operating temp. The other way to verify that as your problem is to warm it up, then wire the choke all the way open and go drive it. If it's the choke, then your problem should be gone.

I know it sounds dumb, but make sure not to drop anything down the carb when you're working on it. Obvious, but just be careful.

Carb cleaner also can eat paint, upholstry and carpet. Careful with that stuff.
Old    Bill Connell (mrawdtsi)      Join Date: May 2009       06-03-2010, 7:38 AM Reply   
Thanks everyone!

Im not too concerned about eating the paint on the engine, i can always touch that up. I was very careful not to drop anything into the carb.

I am 35 miles from the nearest lake, so taking it out and driving it prior to an outing isnt going to happen, so my best bet is to hook up the hose and try in my driveway. If that goes well, ill just bring some tools to the lake just in case.

Currently, i adjusted the choke spring such that the choke plate is closed with the engine cold, and the key in the off position. Tonight i hope to find some time to pull the boat out and give it a whirl with the hose attached.

It still sort of baffles me as to why this would come out of adjustment suddenly. 4 successful trips this year, then all of a sudden, right away at launch it wont idle. (only 57 total hours on this boat!)

Im tempted to do a complete Fuel Injection swap, since im well versed in EFI, but honestly that isnt really cost effective.

I truly appreciate the assistance, i will let you know how it goes in the driveway tonight.
Old    Steve Oh (olskooltige)      Join Date: Mar 2007       06-03-2010, 8:21 AM Reply   
It's more important to adjust the choke so that it is full open when the key is on. If you turn the key on and let the choke warm up completely (about 3-5 minutes) adjust it to just past full open at that point. If the spring is still good, it will close when it cools. I suspect your choke spring is getting older and just needed adjustment. Also if the temps just got hotter in your area, then the choke needed adjustment. If adjusting the choke doesn't let it idle, then post back. Carbs are very easy to work on, maintain, and are reliable.

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