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Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-15-2010, 1:12 PM Reply   
so i just fired up my boat after being stored all winter (yes winterized). it fired right up, but it began streaming out on both sides of the engine (mercruiser 350 magnum - carb"d) behind the exhaust manifold. it doesnt look like a cracked block as it is happening on both sides in almost the same place. no, i didn't forget to put plugs back in, but it seems that there could be a gasket that needs replacing maybe??? please let me know any thoughts- thanks!

Last edited by priszkid; 05-15-2010 at 1:14 PM.
Old    A-dub (behindtheboat)      Join Date: Aug 2006       05-15-2010, 2:05 PM Reply   
Freeze plugs?
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       05-15-2010, 3:02 PM Reply   
First identify where exactly the water is coming from. Take a picture and post it up if possible. If you can not see it directly use a inspection mirror/dental mirror to locate the leak.
Old    Sparky Jay (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       05-15-2010, 10:06 PM Reply   
^^^ +1
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-15-2010, 10:55 PM Reply   
so this is the best one i could get because of the tight fit. it's coming out about a half inch under the valve cover and seems to be behind a gasket, but couldn't really tell. on the left is the valve cover, the right is the manifold. i'll try to get a better shot of it tomorrow in the light.
Attached Images
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-16-2010, 11:05 PM Reply   
looks like block drains or manifold drains
Old    Sparky Jay (wake_upppp)      Join Date: Nov 2003       05-16-2010, 11:38 PM Reply   
OP states, "no I didnt forget to put plugs back in".
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-17-2010, 12:09 AM Reply   
does not mean he seated them right
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       05-17-2010, 2:46 PM Reply   
My drain plugs are brass and tapered. Nothing to seat. Thread sealer and tighten them up.
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-17-2010, 2:58 PM Reply   
post serial number
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-17-2010, 4:34 PM Reply   
I have checked the drain plugs, and all are tight, and not leaking.
serial #D815238
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-17-2010, 4:35 PM Reply   
here's 2 pics
Attached Images
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       05-17-2010, 4:40 PM Reply   
In the next to the last pic. Can you edit the photo and circle the area where the water is leaking from. Kinda looks like the riser gasket may be leaking.
Old    alan plotz (alanp)      Join Date: Apr 2001       05-17-2010, 5:50 PM Reply   
i would pull all the plugs on the side of the engine and check to see if they are wet and if any water is in the cylinders. also check to see of you have water in your oil. if so you probably have a blown head gasket.
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-17-2010, 6:15 PM Reply   
you need #17 manual for merc

looks like a riser gasket
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-18-2010, 9:18 PM Reply   
well, i had time tonight to pull my exhaust bueno. i found out that i have a crack in the head. the other side is about the same. this really sucks. i now get to source new heads. any advice now???
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-18-2010, 9:25 PM Reply
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-18-2010, 9:26 PM Reply   
also napa auto can get sierra heads
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       05-18-2010, 9:48 PM Reply and get some performance cast iron heads. Your already there might as well get a little more hp while your doing it. You could even do a set of aluminum heads like the indmar 340. Just a thought.
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-27-2010, 9:27 PM Reply   
due to a busy work schedule this is the first i've been able to get back to this project- so i was able to call a local service shop and the service tech said that if my heads are leaking that many times it means that the valley thru the intake is likely cracked as well. i'm trying to not have to pull my intake (cuz it looks like a pita) but will if i have to. my question is, is it a typical scenario to have both of these things occur? should i just bite the bullet and remove the intake. lookin for some advice-
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       05-27-2010, 9:30 PM Reply   
You have to pull the intake to pull the head off.
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       05-27-2010, 10:52 PM Reply   
sweet. sounds like i'm doin that tomorrow. thanks aaron.
Old    Chris G. (chris4x4gill2)      Join Date: Sep 2009       05-28-2010, 6:44 AM Reply   
Liek Aaron said, the intake manifold has to come off to get to the heads. Once you remove the carb and distributor, the intake is very straightforward, just remove the bolts and lift straight up. For the heads, you have to remove the rocker arms and push rods (keep these in order so the same ones go back in the exact same places if you re-use them) and then unbolt. There are I believe 4? rows of bolts 3 inside the head and one outside? might be just 2 inside I cant remember.

Removal is the easy part, putting it all back together is where it gets fun.
Old    Chris G. (chris4x4gill2)      Join Date: Sep 2009       05-28-2010, 6:45 AM Reply   
Oh, put a mark on the dizzy and the intake to help with re-alignment when you re-install. Should help get your timing close to start with.
Old    Fred (olmoomba)      Join Date: Apr 2010       05-28-2010, 3:03 PM Reply   
just put it all to TDC before you remove the heads and that will help to make sure you have proper timing on reinstall.
Old    Aaron Ware (99_slaunch)      Join Date: Oct 2005       05-28-2010, 4:05 PM Reply   
You do not have to pull the rocker arms completely off. I would also leave the carb on to. Keep in mind if you pull one head and find the head gasket is blown. Don't assume the other side is good. Replace both head gaskets at the same time. Depending on your skills this is a half day job. Sounds like your first time so one or two full days. I would gather all your supplies first from any local auto supply. Oil,filter, head gaskets( fel-pro blues) intake gaskets (fel-pro blues) exhaust manifold gaskets, Teflon sealant for head and intake bolts and permatex gasket sealant. Do not use the gaskets for the intake at the front and back of the block run a THICK bead of the permatex. To make it easier on you I would mark the plug wires at the end going to the spark plug so you will know which ones go where. Leaving them attached to the distributor cap. once you pull the cap and wires bump the motor until the rotor is in a good spot for reference you need to reference the distributor housing as well. With this and every thing mentioned by every one else. You should have a good start.
Old    Bill K (bill_airjunky)      Join Date: Apr 2002       05-28-2010, 4:37 PM Reply   
Bummer. If the boat was winterized, how did this happen??
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       05-29-2010, 4:14 AM Reply   

a vacuum gauge tells a lot at idle

99 gots good points, Especially the intake gasket, front and back, use FACTORY INTAKE GASKETS!!, they have rubber unlike cars, plus u need to run gasket sealer up the sides of intake gaskets to make a seal

but no need to bump motor over until dizzy back in

if you have no clue, pass this on to a good shop

if your torque wrench is off, your motor could try to compress water, which will bent a valve and/or rod, and thats not fun!!!

Bummer. If the boat was winterized, how did this happen??


you really want to know how many shops do not WINTER-IZE correctly???

I bet over 80%

one thing a shop misses is fogging correctly
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       06-07-2010, 6:50 PM Reply   
so just pulled the intake and the block is cracked. this really puts a crimp in what i had planned for this upcomming weekend. i'm now looking at a new/remanufactured engine. i'm also starting to think that goin with an mpi might be the way to go if they'll bolt right up. of course all of this happens right after i get the thing paid off...i guess that's more $ to put towards a motor...
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       06-07-2010, 6:59 PM Reply   
where are u located?
i get awsome deals on motors from jasper, i also have a los angles marine shop i get deals on

If you go MPI you going to need to ton of parts more, ECM, dizzy, fuel pumps, fuel coolers
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       06-07-2010, 7:00 PM Reply   
eugene, or
Old    Rayprisz (priszkid)      Join Date: Aug 2007       06-07-2010, 9:10 PM Reply   
oh ya---please lemme know what kind of is fine. thanks-
Old    JUST-IN-TIME (justintime)      Join Date: Mar 2009       06-08-2010, 12:52 AM Reply   
email me, i can get you a motor in 5 days up there
Old    Michael Hunter (mhunter)      Join Date: Mar 2008       06-08-2010, 5:04 AM Reply   
When you winterized you just emptied the water but didnt add antifreeze? The only way to guarantee this will never happen again is to fill with 50/50 antifreeze.


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