Articles
   
       
       
Pics/Video
   
       
       
Shop
Search
 
 
 
 
 
Home   Articles   Pics/Video   Gear   Wake 101   Events   Community   Forums   Classifieds   Contests   Shop   Search
WAKE WORLD HOME
Email Password
Go Back   WakeWorld > Wakesurfing

Share 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       11-25-2009, 7:35 PM Reply   
Heaven help me! I'm going to do another e.wood compsand. I built this e.balsa compsand a few years ago. I like the way the e.balsa rides, but the look is a little 'pergo flooring' like.

I thought that I would leave the grain showing and dye it translucent red. I was following a thread about dying e.balsa that used Rit dye rather than the more expensive wood dyes.

The process uses Rit dye and Isopropyl Alcohol. The theory is that the Alky evaporates quickly leaving the dyed wood behind.

The mixture:

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       11-25-2009, 7:38 PM Reply   
I mixed up a smll batch to do a test.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       11-25-2009, 7:42 PM Reply   
The raw e.balsa.

Upload
Old    Brian (TXSurf) (bac)      Join Date: Feb 2008       11-25-2009, 7:43 PM Reply   
And he's at it again!

Can't wait to see the finished product! I absolutely love the look of wooden boards!
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       11-25-2009, 7:48 PM Reply   
Using a cheap sponge (and don't forget the gloves!) I spread the dye and alky solution on a section of the raw e.wood. The alky evaporates very quickly leaving dried and dyed e.balsa.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       11-25-2009, 7:54 PM Reply   
@ TXSurf - I like the look of the e.wood too, but I'd like to get a little different look...not sure I like the dyed look though.

The board I built a few years ago, before external lamination.

Upload
Old    Lakewakes Wakesurf Boards (brewkettle)      Join Date: Jan 2009       12-03-2009, 9:02 AM Reply   
i remember , nice board ,
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-03-2009, 9:36 AM Reply   
Thanks. I'm loving the look of the e.wood pinlines on this board. The rails are built up using e.balsa and e.cedar (I think). The darker color, looks cool to me.

Upload
Old    Mitch (wakemitch)      Join Date: Jun 2005       12-03-2009, 9:47 PM Reply   
wow jeff. thats looks so good!
Old    Joe B (sailing216)      Join Date: Oct 2007       12-04-2009, 5:52 AM Reply   
How much does it weigh?

I love the look of wood, but that other thread with the beautiful all wood boards had their small fish surfboard come in at I think was 11 or 13lbs. Granted small was just under 6ft.

The dark wood contrast looks great.
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-04-2009, 5:57 AM Reply   
Yeah the HWS weigh a ton, the board above isn't mine (note the shaping bay that is INDOORS! :-) ) but I think it weighs a ton also, it's a solid balsa board that was CNC'ed to shape...mix of old and new school.

I also like the deck inlay of the checkerboard veneer they did on the deck.

My e.balsa compansand only weighed about 4 pounds, ready to ride. I think that was 3mm e.balsa skins.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-04-2009, 1:56 PM Reply   
I also really like Josh "Speedneedle" Dowling's rail treatment. e.Paulownia and D-cell layers. There's some practical advantage to these also. The super lightweight e.wood tends to soak water like a sponge, and of course a low density EPS core will give a nice home to water. The D-cell is closed cell and water-proof'ish. Tasteful paint pinline between skin and rails.

Upload
Old    mobster            12-06-2009, 2:04 PM Reply   
here are few of rock's latest will have some finished board laterUpload
Upload
Upload
Upload the weight so far is just over 2 lbs
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-06-2009, 3:01 PM Reply   
Rock's doing all of the various build methodologies. That board is going to look sweet with a gloss.
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-09-2009, 7:43 PM Reply   
The big snow storm of '09 has set me back some :-)

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-09-2009, 7:45 PM Reply   
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-09-2009, 7:56 PM Reply   
This e.balsa compsand will be a perimeter stringered board. The rails will be e.wood and built up to about 1/2" or so. The skins will be 2.5 mm e.balsa top and bottom. With the e.wood rails there are a few differet ways to attach the skins. 1) The skins don't wrap the rails. 2) The bottom doesn't wrap the rails but the top does and 3) Both the top and bottom skins wrap the rails. The theory is that wrapping the rails stiffens the top or bottom skin somewhat. I my first attempt, I didn't wrap bottom and didn't notice any benefit.

For this build, I want to have some different color wood or stripes so I will only wrap the first two layers of the e.balsa build up.

I'm starting the rail buildup with some leftover divinycell. The d-cell will protect the core in case I get a ding on the rails. The e.balsa will suck water like a sponge, but the d-cell will prevent ot from migrating into the eps core.

I use my hotwire rocker template to rough out the shape on the d-cell, leaving it as a 2" band which will cover the full thickness and give me some to shape away.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-09-2009, 8:02 PM Reply   
I do the same thing with two sheets of e.balsa per side, forming a patchwork as I'm using 4' lengths. I overlap the seams but place the seams closer to the nose where it's not overly important.

It's hard to see, but along the rails 3mm dcell and then 2 layers of e.balsa.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-10-2009, 6:11 AM Reply   
Out of the bag first few layers of rail material attached. Bottom shape is next.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-10-2009, 8:24 PM Reply   
I'm going to add diagonal pieces on tha tail. In ocean compsand's the theory is that the diagnoal's create more flex in the area covered by the diagonal. I've done them before and behind the boat, I couldn't tell any difference, so I'm using them strictly for cosmetics in an effort to avoid the look of pergo florring.

I start by laying out a sheet of paper that I trace the tail on. When I am creating the diagonal pieces, the outline of the paper gives me a visual so that I can cut the end of the diagonal out by the rail.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-10-2009, 8:26 PM Reply   
Some seuence shots to give an indication of what the diagonals will look like.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-10-2009, 8:30 PM Reply   
With the diagonals done, I'll cut the lengthwise pieces so that butt up against the diagonals. The only tricky part is I wanted a "plank" down the center, so I had to notch the "V" where the end of the diagonals meet.

Upload
Old    Chris (rio_sanger)      Join Date: Apr 2007       12-10-2009, 9:14 PM Reply   
Good to see you to working with wood again Jeff! Working with it is the first step to overcoming your aversion to it!

Just think, some day you may be able to hug a tree
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-11-2009, 7:35 AM Reply   
LOL! There is NO TREE HUGGING in my future. :-) It's not that I have an aversion to working with e.wood, I just HATE the stuff. :-)

The deep ricj tones of the e.wood after lamination, can't be beat, but getting the stuff to that point makes me crazy!

I'd like to try a chambered / hollow e.balsa that is cnc'ed. I think that look "might" be worth the trouble.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-11-2009, 8:33 PM Reply   
The planks don't need to be exact, but very very close is good :-) I'll vacuum bag them down and with a 2 oz eglass underneath, there is a little bit of swelling and "compaction" that tends to manage minor imperfections.

Right side, both sides and rough mockup of all the pieces.

Upload
Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-11-2009, 8:33 PM Reply   
The planks don't need to be exact, but very very close is good :-) I'll vacuum bag them down and with a 2 oz eglass underneath, there is a little bit of swelling and "compaction" that tends to manage minor imperfections.

Right side, both sides and rough mockup of all the pieces.

Upload
Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 12:16 PM Reply   
The core of the compsand is 1# eps. It's super light and basically just separates the skins. However, that also means the fin boxes are sunk in anything solid. With a HD foam skin, it's easy enough to notch the top skin which prevents the fin box from flexing under load.

Another option is a hd foam insert, but I have found that creates a fulcrum between the HD and LD foam and fractures/delams start at the transition from the HD to LD foam. So for this build, I'm going to sink some e.balsa into the eps before shaping the bottom.

The e.balsa box supports cut to size, sunk into the box and the bottom single concave shaped.

Upload
Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 12:21 PM Reply   
I align all of the skin pieces and then tape them together. The tape doesn't do anything other than hold them together until I can lay it flat on the shaped board. I flip the front of the tap over creating a "tab". The tab won't get stuck down by the vaccuum and makes it easier to remove the tape after I pull the board out of the bag. Otherwise, I'd spend hours with a razor blade trying to pull up an edge.

Upload
Old    Duffy Mahoney (duffymahoney)      Join Date: Sep 2008       12-12-2009, 12:27 PM Reply   
Super cool jeff!
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 12:46 PM Reply   
Thanks Duffy!

After I have all the pieces taped up, I carry it out to the shop and lay it in the roker bed, then place the shaped eps core on top, align it and mark the outline pretty close to the final shape. I'll trim it later with 36 grit on a block.

This is the "inside" side of the bottom skin.

Upload
Old    Show (bigshow)      Join Date: Feb 2005       12-12-2009, 12:50 PM Reply   
knew you were a carpenter!
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 12:55 PM Reply   
I laminate the skins to the core using 2 oz eglass. It's exceptionally light, the bottom fabric weighs less than 2 oz in total. A proper resin to fabric ratio would be 1:1, but it's really hard for a garage builder to measure out 1.5 oz of epoxy - well at least it is for me! :-) I mixed up 5 oz of epoxy, and wound up with almost 2 oz waste. I also used about 1 oz of epoxy and with a small paint brush, painted some epoxy all along the outside inch or some of the skin, so that it would stick well to the rail build up and core.

The 1.5 oz of epoxy was then pushed into the e-glass and I laid that down on the core, then carefully picked up the skin and laid that down on the core/laminate combination, tape side out :-)

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 1:01 PM Reply   
@ Show, so not!!!! Or if I am by default, it's a reluctant one! :-)

I forgot to mention, in the picture above, that I tape the skin ONTO the core in 4 places, just to prevent a disaster, as I move the core/skin into the bag.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 4:51 PM Reply   
Bottom skin attached, tape removed but the skin is not trimmed flush to the rails yet.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 4:54 PM Reply   
Trimmed flush. You can see a little bit of resin bleed through - that distressed me no end on my first build, but it disappears with the exterior lamination. The entire surface will absorb the resin and the bleed through blends right in.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 4:59 PM Reply   
To trim the slight overhang on the skin flush to the rails, I start with a single edge razor and run it such that the "handle" is flush with the rails, which leaves about 1/32" left over and then I use a sanding block to bring the rest down flush.

The next step will be shaping the deck to the final foil. Then I will finish building out the rails.
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-12-2009, 7:28 PM Reply   
Deck shaped. This build technique does pose one challenge. I still have rail material to add, so as I am shaping the deck, I am visualizing the finished rail. If I had a rail guage (the rail shape template) I could have used that to continually measure my progress.

Ready for the deck skin:

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-14-2009, 7:49 PM Reply   
I wanted to do something on the deck to break up the "pergo"'ness of the balsa planks, but so much of the deck is covered with traction, it was a challenge for my e.wood averse (adverse? :-) ) brain. So I decided on doing a diagonal pattern on the nose similar to the tail on the bottom.

Rather than 4" wide planks, I decided on 2" wide planks...visually, the 4" diagonal at the nose seemed to overpower the concept. The first thing I did was take a spare 4" wide plank and split it into 2 - 2" wide planks.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-14-2009, 7:51 PM Reply   
Then using the "core" I made a template on some paper, of the nose shape so that I could cut out the nose diagonal pieces.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-14-2009, 7:53 PM Reply   
The nose diagonals cut and aligned.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-14-2009, 7:55 PM Reply   
Again, the biggest challenge here is fitting the center plank into the "V" of the nose diagonals.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-14-2009, 7:58 PM Reply   
All the pieces cut and aligned.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-15-2009, 6:30 PM Reply   
I'm going to tape and trim the deck tonight. The deck on this board is "mostly" flat, but there is some dome to it especially out at the rails. The e.woodworking guys have a bead and cove bit set that will allow the "boards" to "curve" along a flat surface. In my situation, the planks will curve to conform to the surface, but I knock the inside bottom of each blank to allow the planks to more easily butt against each other without a gap on the surface.

I swiped this picture from some demented website for those e.woodworkers:

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-15-2009, 7:38 PM Reply   
Taped and aligned and then a relatively close trim to the outline, leaving enough to accomodate the dome on the deck.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-15-2009, 7:43 PM Reply   
I'll attach the deck to the ore using 2 oz eglass. I also add a patch under the deck where the feet are. The external lamination will then be a single 4 oz top and bottom. To help the e.balsa conform to the the start of the radius of the rails, I'll thin the last 2 inches along the area that meets the rails using 60 grit.
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-16-2009, 7:30 PM Reply   
Deck being attached. The sandwich layer for the deck is double 2 oz on a bias, 0/90.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-17-2009, 4:48 AM Reply   
The deck skin still needs to be trimmed along the rails and nose, but the general look. It currently weighs 2.25 pounds.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-17-2009, 7:28 PM Reply   
In a semi-tribute to a bygone era of e.redwood boards, I opted to build up the rails with a single layer of e.redwood, the remaining layers will be e.balsa. My source was the garden department of Home Depot. :-) 3/16" e.redwood bender board.

I'm going to bag these separately as the e.wood is a bit stiff.

The blank with the deck skin trimmed flush.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-17-2009, 7:29 PM Reply   
Rail e.wood.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-17-2009, 7:33 PM Reply   
This part took two people, I held the bender board up to the blank and Judy ran the felt tip marker along the outside.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-17-2009, 7:35 PM Reply   
A couple of minutes later I have the one rail cut out. I transfer that to the other board, being careful to avoid any knots - because e.wood is evil.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-18-2009, 7:37 PM Reply   
I am bagging the e.redwood as it didn't stick well with super glue. I think that I will bag the first e.balsa rail material to the e.redwood, after that when it is e.balsa to e.balsa I will use the CA glue.

I paint the inside of the e.redwood with epoxy.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-18-2009, 7:40 PM Reply   
I hold the rail material in place with masking tape, and since I am holding the e.redwood down with one hand, I cut a bunch of tape pieces in advance to make applying them easier.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-18-2009, 7:43 PM Reply   
I attach the e.redwood by ailgning the nose and then rolling it back towards the middle. The first piece of tape then holds it in place and I work towards the nose, then from the middle to the tail...very similar to laps.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-18-2009, 7:47 PM Reply   
The rail material all taped up. You can see that the e.redwood will leave a "pinline" along the rail after I shape it down.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-18-2009, 7:50 PM Reply   
In the bag pressure everywhere. I noticed that I didn't get the left side of the rail material pulled tight at the last inch by the nose, so I'll have to "fix" that, possibly with a nose block.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-19-2009, 5:51 AM Reply   
Out of the bag this morning. It's a little hard to see, but I've attempted to tack down the left part of the rail up at the nose with some 5 min epoxy. I'll leave it taped up until this evening.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-19-2009, 7:35 PM Reply   
ehhhh - I sorta fixed the nose, but I'll probably rework it later.

Block plane to bring the excess e.redwood "close" to the surface of the e.balsa. I'll blend it all in after I add the last few layers of e.balsa rail material.

Upload
Upload
Old    dtw. (notsobueno)      Join Date: Dec 2004       12-19-2009, 9:51 PM Reply   
Dad, that board looks very very nice.

Is that the same table we are having Christmas dinner on?
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-20-2009, 6:42 AM Reply   
Thanks dtw. Yes! What are you bringing for us ALL to feast on? Sooooo kind of you to bring ALL the food. :-)
Old    dtw. (notsobueno)      Join Date: Dec 2004       12-20-2009, 8:11 AM Reply   
Pizza. God's gift to dining, any occasion.
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-20-2009, 7:35 PM Reply   
Not another traditional Christmas Pizza!

Finished building the rails up. The CA glue didn't work well on the e.redwood because anything wood is EVIL! :-) I just mixed up 85 bazillion batches of 5 minute epoxy to glue the rail material down. Then used masking tape to hold it in place.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-20-2009, 7:40 PM Reply   
I still need to add a tail block and I think I'll do a nose block too. The basi structure is complete at this point.

Upload
Upload
Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-20-2009, 7:42 PM Reply   
James has gotten in to the cat, too. Grip tape for his new Integrity wakeskate - the white in teh grip tape he cut with a single edge razor!

Upload
Old    dtw. (notsobueno)      Join Date: Dec 2004       12-21-2009, 11:37 AM Reply   
You guys need your own HGTV...er Fuel tv show.

"Surfdad & Surfson"
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-21-2009, 7:42 PM Reply   
LOL - I read Surfson as Surfusion. :-)

I'm going to add a tailblock to finish up the tail. I start by drawing a heavy line where the final shape of the tail will be. The tail block will be composed of alternating layers of e.redwood and e.balsa and running on a diagonal. If you look closely in the picture you'll see the pencil line where I'll cut the board to glue on the tail block.

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-21-2009, 7:43 PM Reply   
This gives an idea of what the layers will look like when finished.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-21-2009, 7:48 PM Reply   
I cut 6 pieces each of 1" x 7.5" e.redwood and e.balsa, slathered each with epoxy and stacked them in a alternating pattern. Each piece had a mill finished end and I stacked the pieces so that the milled ends are together. After glued and stacked, I wrapped some masking tape on each end to allow handling.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-21-2009, 7:51 PM Reply   
I made a quick and cheap vacuum bag from a quart sized baggie. I placed a section of e.redwood on the bottom so that the milled ends would line up and "hopefully" give me one square side. The pieces in the bag and vacuum pulled.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-22-2009, 5:07 AM Reply   
Out of the bag this morning and a rough visual of what the tail will look like. The two sections will meet in the middle with @ 45 degree angle and will be shaped to the rounded squash like dark line.

You can also get a good idea of the visuals that can be achieved with various e.woods or even e.wood and cork/HD foam.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-22-2009, 7:08 PM Reply   
"Artist"'s rendering of what the tail will look like as I shape it up. The 45'ish degree angles sawn and sanded.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-22-2009, 7:15 PM Reply   
I'm gluing up the two pieces of the tailblock first. Then I'll align that on the tail of the board to to mark the cut through the board, hopefully that will net me a perfect match.

Inasmuch as, I am now a master e.woodworker, I decided to swap the layers of the e.wood on the tail block - because that's all you can do with the stupid stuff! :-)

I'll sand and match the various surfaces and then 5 min epoxy the tail block to the board. Once that is all attached, I'll start the planing, cutting and sanding for ages.

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-22-2009, 8:12 PM Reply   
Cut the diagonal to fit the tail block and epox'ied it up.

Upload
Upload
Old    Steven Breazeale (breazy)      Join Date: Jun 2009       12-23-2009, 3:23 AM Reply   
Jeff why do you add e infront of the wood type like e.balsa? Im confused by that, other than that the build looks great, hopefully it will ride that way too
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-23-2009, 5:00 AM Reply   
Thanks for the props Steven and for following along. The e. is for EVIL. :-) The Readers Digest version: My first attempt at building an e.balsa compsand (the very first picture way up in the thread) was riddled with problems. The foam I ordered got lost in Oakland and never made it. The warehouse of the retailer where I originally ordered my sheets of e.balsa BURNED DOWN after I placed my order, but before shipment. Everything that COULD got wrong did! :-) The running joke from all the e.woodworkers is that wood is GOOD. And boy did they go out of their way to make sure I heard about it. I, being a more rational person than those folks, know the truth. That truth is wood is EVIL. Hence, e.balsa, e.redwood and all things e.wood. :-)
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-23-2009, 5:18 AM Reply   
I had to share this photo from Sway's. The board was made by Austin Custom Surfboards. They are known for their resin work and the pattern on this is in resin, not airbrushed, according to them. Amazing by itself, but my eye caught the "no pop outs" stickers in the top of the window. :-)

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-23-2009, 7:55 PM Reply   
The shaping of the tail block.

The outline that I cut:

Upload

Rough cut of the shape:

Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-23-2009, 8:03 PM Reply   
Several passes with the electric planer and then some with the hand plane, rough sanded with 60#. I still have 3.7 days of sanding left :-)

Upload
Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-23-2009, 8:10 PM Reply   
From a few feet:

Upload
Upload
Old    Jeff Walker (surfdad)      Join Date: Sep 2004       12-26-2009, 12:51 PM Reply   
Next is the nose block. Mostly it will just fill the gap where the rails meet at the nose, but the piece of e.redwood will add some resistance to crushing/denting the nose.

I'll shape a small "plug" and then route a matching hole in the nose. I am using the soft e.balsa on the outside of the block as it's much easier to shape than the e.redwood.

I am gluing this up with titebond e.wood glue.

Upload

Clamps everywhere and a quick visual of what the plug will look like.

Upload

Reply
Share 

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 4:53 AM.

Home   Articles   Pics/Video   Gear   Wake 101   Events   Community   Forums   Classifieds   Contests   Shop   Search
Wake World Home

 

© 2012 eWake, Inc.    
Advertise    |    Contact    |    Terms of Use    |    Privacy Policy    |    Report Abuse    |    Conduct    |    About Us