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Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       11-25-2009, 9:52 AM Reply   
Anyone know the Teleflex part #? The cable is black. The factory says it's 21 feet. I'm can't seem to easily find it on the internet. So many options, I'm lost.

Once I have it, any tips for installing the replacement?
Old     (meathead65)      Join Date: Sep 2006       11-25-2009, 11:30 AM Reply   
Memory is vague, but I believe in 2002 they using Quicksilver/merc systems. Merc number for a 21 footer is 828011A21
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       11-25-2009, 11:34 AM Reply   
No, the cable is clearly Teleflex.
Old     (meathead65)      Join Date: Sep 2006       11-25-2009, 12:00 PM Reply   
Well, in that case the part number is 1-SCC13421 for the standard cable, or 1-SCC15421 for the TFXtreme cable, which is of higher quality.
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       11-25-2009, 1:47 PM Reply   
OK, I found that part. Anyone done this job? Looks like a lot of knuckle skinning. Any tips/comments?
Old     (sangerlover)      Join Date: Sep 2005       11-25-2009, 2:01 PM Reply   
SSC13421 Teleflex is what I bought for my 03.
Old     (joecs)      Join Date: Oct 2008       11-25-2009, 2:23 PM Reply   
Tie a rope to the cable before pulling it through. It will be a nice guide when installing the new cable. It's not that bad of a project.
Old     (ralph)      Join Date: Apr 2002       11-25-2009, 3:00 PM Reply   
03 V210, I got mine from Skidim: Item# 122005 is the 20 foot Teleflex Rack Cable
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       11-25-2009, 3:14 PM Reply   
Pull from the stern or pull from the helm?
Old     (ralph)      Join Date: Apr 2002       11-25-2009, 4:00 PM Reply   
Helm, it has the rack attached at the helm end.
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       01-25-2010, 3:52 PM Reply   
Sometimes it takes a bit, but eventually I get these projects done. Just in case there are any other similar age V210's needing cable replacement, I though I would share. Perhaps this will spur others on to DIY & save a few hundred.

In the end it was significantly easier than I thought it would be. The most time was taken getting ready to pull cable. In my case, the hardest part was taking apart the woofer box that the cable runs behind (and through, believe it or not) at the drivers feet. I had to take out the woofer, remove the face-wall, unscrew the box and pull it out to free up the cable that ran through the box with notches against the far wall.

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After that, I decided that rather than pulling the old cable out, a rope through and then the new cable in, I would just pull once. To do this I first cut the "rack" off the cable at the helm with my sawzall so I wouldn't be pulling the rack through.

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(taken after on the garage floor)

Then, I made a busing out of duct tape to act as a stop against the new cable and duct taped that to the new cable at the nut so it wouldn't slip.

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Not shown above, but I duct taped the two cables together all the way down the rod at the rudder end of the cable. At this point, I was ready to pull from the stern end of the boat - the old cable out and the new one in at the same time. ...Past the woofer box, through the floor & center ballast locker,

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then down the stringer by the gas tank, past the V-drive & into the engine compartment.

This took all of maybe 15 minutes. Easy.

Then, it was recommended that I super-clean out the tube that holds the steering cable rod at the rudder end of cable. In my case the inside was pitted a bit with some grease and deposits that wouldn't come easily off. I used a Flex-Hone tool for my tube's inside dia. (5/8), aluminum oxide (because my tube is aluminum) and medium 240 grit (recommended when I called).
http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c1=1


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Because the Flex-Hone was not long enough to go completely through the tube, it needed an extension so I wouldn't be reversing inside the tube creating an uneven inside surface. Flex-Hone sells "extensions" but forgetting to order this up front, I didn't want to wait. So I devised an extension taking 3 bottom wires from coat hangers shoved them into the brushes of the Flex-Hone and then electrical taped then to the shaft. It worked like a charm.

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I then reinstalled the tube. But this time I used a Zirk fitting in order to be able to lube the cable in the future (the old cable had only a plastic fitting on the end). The fitting looked something like this, but I bought it from my dealer:
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=52011F&WT.mc_id=gb1
Then attached the rack at the helm, put the rest back together and that was it. Total time: 3-4 hours. Second time around (7-8 years from now), maybe half that.

Hope this helps. Go for it!
Old     (gunz)      Join Date: Sep 2001       01-25-2010, 4:23 PM Reply   
Nice DIY job right there.
Old     (rio_sanger)      Join Date: Apr 2007       01-25-2010, 4:36 PM Reply   
Thanks for posting up the step by step Andy. Doesn't look too difficult. Was your old cable stiff? Or was this just preventative maintenance?

My cable is ten years old, and still feels good, but I guess it's only a matter of time before I'll have to do the same thing.
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       01-25-2010, 5:18 PM Reply   
Hey Chris,

Yes, my old cable was getting a little noticeable resistance early last year. By the fall it was plain old stiff. It was time.

You're lucky so far. I wouldn't replace until it's noticeable and bugs you. Keep your bilge as dry as possible, because when there's even a couple of inches of water in there the cable & rod at the end is under water. Water gets in & eventually makes the grease like sludge, then like paste.

The cable was $200 shipped (SkiDIM), the Flex-Hone $25 shipped, the Zirk $15.
Old     (sk4910)      Join Date: Jul 2011       10-03-2016, 8:23 PM Reply   
I have a 2005 Sanger V210. Do you know which cable I would need to buy? It looks like Teleflex has been bought out and the part numbers and series have changed.
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-04-2018, 7:39 AM Reply   
Digging up and old thread . I'm getting ready to finally tackle the steering cable on my 1998 v210. This post gives me hope it wont be too bad . I was wondering just how hard is it going to be to get the cable loose from the rudder and remove and clean the tube back there . Obviously I'll have to pull the engine side panels and get my big ass down under the engine .
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       06-04-2018, 6:02 PM Reply   
Hey I recognize this thread! CALIV210 - go for it. With a little patience, no problem. Ping me if you have any questions along the way. Really, the biggest pain in the a** was that my cable went through the back side of my sub-woofer box literally. So I essentially had to take the box apart for the cable replacement. Other than that, not very hard.

In fact, I've had to re-do my steering cable once again since this original post. I've since re-located my bilge pump and bought an automatic one so that water no longer gets high enough to wet the end of the cable (causing stiff cable response too early). The second time I didn't bother cleaning the tube so judiciously. It's been 3-4 years and still operates just fine.
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-05-2018, 6:08 AM Reply   
Quote:
Originally Posted by ottog1979 View Post
Hey I recognize this thread! CALIV210 - go for it. With a little patience, no problem. Ping me if you have any questions along the way. Really, the biggest pain in the a** was that my cable went through the back side of my sub-woofer box literally. So I essentially had to take the box apart for the cable replacement. Other than that, not very hard.

In fact, I've had to re-do my steering cable once again since this original post. I've since re-located my bilge pump and bought an automatic one so that water no longer gets high enough to wet the end of the cable (causing stiff cable response too early). The second time I didn't bother cleaning the tube so judiciously. It's been 3-4 years and still operates just fine.
Thank you for the encouragement . I ordered the cable yesterday hopefully it will show up tomorrow so I can get started on it . I was pumped to find it for $110.00 versus the $225.00 the local shop wanted for it . Im willing to by local but not when the price is almost double . My biggest concern is getting my big ass down below the engine to unhook it from the tiller arm . lol Hey so besides getting stiff was there any other symptoms with yours ?
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       06-05-2018, 10:40 AM Reply   
have not done this job on a vdrive, but I don't think it will be too bad. Turn the wheel so it pulls the arm over to one side so you have a little better access
Old     (ottog1979)      Join Date: Apr 2007       06-05-2018, 11:41 AM Reply   
No symptoms other than stiffer turning.
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-05-2018, 1:42 PM Reply   
Ive watched a bunch of videos and asked enough questions that I'm feeling pretty confident it will be a straight forward repair . Thanks again everyone for for the support .
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-06-2018, 6:36 AM Reply   
update:
So far so good . I unbolted the rack from the helm and unbolted the end of the cable from the tiller arm and the tube that holds it . It was definitely a bitch to get to the tiller arm bolt at 6 feet tall and 240 lbs .lol. Once I cut the zip ties that hold the steering cable and the throttle cable together down by the engine the cable seems to move freely . I'm just going to cut the rack off the old cable and tape it to the new one and drag it back through doesn't seem like it will be to difficult . Keeping my fingers crossed for now . The worst part is gonna be making a mess with the Sawsall cutting the cable .
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-07-2018, 8:43 AM Reply   
You guys were right it wasnt too difficult once I found the hidden zipties. After I finished I spun the steering wheel and its smoother but definitely not as smooth as it should be . So I got to looking at everything and I noticed there appears to be grease zerks on the rudder housing . I have a feeling it desperately needs to be greased. I tried to grease it but the hose on my grease gun is too short so today I will pick up a hose extension and grease it up after work with some marine grease . Does anyone have any other suggestions for getting the steering to be buttery smooth ??
Old     (denverd1)      Join Date: May 2004       06-07-2018, 9:14 AM Reply   
new cable and some marine grease should get it there
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-08-2018, 6:44 AM Reply   
Got it greased up last night its much smoother now . Must have been bone dry because it took a lot of grease. The only thing I might change is the pivot ball cable holder thingamajigger back by the transom . The pivot ball has a slight amount of play in it . Hopefully I'll get the boat out this weekend and then I can decide if I'm going to get back in there and change that mount . If it drive well and steers well I'm not going back in there until after the summers over .
Old     (CALIV210)      Join Date: Jun 2015       06-18-2018, 9:17 AM Reply   
UPDATE:
For anyone thats interested I thought I should throw up an update . We finally got to take the boat out and after greasing the rudder box and replacing the steering cable the boat feels better then it ever has the steering is so nice and sweet now .

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