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Old     (helix_rider)      Join Date: Mar 2003       09-04-2008, 8:42 AM Reply   
In your tinkering, and by 'your' I mean all you photo gurus, have you found that you ever up your ISO during daylight wakeboarding photography? All I've read, and done, is to use 100 or 200...but every once in awhile my shots are not as crisp as I would like and I wondered what 'your' experience was in upping the ISO. I see ISO numbers climbing on all the new cams (8000+) and think to myself that there has to be some advantage, but I don't know what that would be in wake.
Old     (richd)      Join Date: Oct 2003       09-04-2008, 10:48 AM Reply   
In the past high ISO usually meant more noise and less fine detail. The latest CMOS sensors with their increased sensitivity and improved in cam processing are pretty clean up to 800. I routinely use ISO 400 even if I don't need it exposure wise. The big advantage of high ISO shooting wake is higher shutter speeds. Of course it works both ways if you're shooting in broad daylight and want a large aperture without getting your shutter speed into the warp zone you'll have to dial down your ISO.

Keep in mind though that underexposing at any ISO level will cause noise.
Old     (liquidmx)      Join Date: Jun 2005       09-04-2008, 12:47 PM Reply   
Rich...great information, thanks! Quick question:

I have found that even with ISO 400 I get noise when I PP in RAW format (I usually up the contrast/sharpening to just about the high end, maybe 1 or 2 ticks down and this shows the noise). I usually shoot in TV mode with shutter speeds around 1000. I am shooting a Digi Rebel XT with the 70-200 F4L lens. Would dialing up the exposure combat this, is the Rebel XT pretty well known for bad noise even at those levels.
Old     (richd)      Join Date: Oct 2003       09-04-2008, 9:35 PM Reply   
The best way to combat noise is to expose "to the right" by looking at your histogram and exposing your shots so the histogram biased to right as far as it can get without piling it up on the far right. Do a search on that for a better explanation. The beauty of RAW is you can still pull it back and punch up the contrast.

The XT is 2 generations back at this point both sensor/processor wise and I would expect some noise at ISO400 with it unless you overexpose the shadows a bit.
Old     (xtremebordgurl)      Join Date: Dec 2002       09-05-2008, 2:25 PM Reply   
M-Dizzle, instead of doing shutter priority, try aperature priority and shooting open at f4 and see what you get for shutter speeds. If it's not fast enough give your iso a little bump. By just shooting in shutter priority the camera may be bumping up your iso when it could be opening up and giving you better image quality. Just a thought...
Old     (richd)      Join Date: Oct 2003       09-05-2008, 5:14 PM Reply   
Shutter priority (TV mode) on Canon DSLRs allows the aperture to adjust but not the ISO. Some of the newer Canon bodies have an ISO safety setting that is turned on by a custom function but I doubt the XT has that setting. How that function works is if the camera can't attain proper exposure at any given shutter/wide open aperture then the ISO will be raised.
Old     (xtremebordgurl)      Join Date: Dec 2002       09-07-2008, 6:25 AM Reply   
Ah, thanks Rich, learn something new every day. Do you know if that is true of the Nikon bodies as well?
Old     (projectely4)      Join Date: Apr 2003       09-07-2008, 4:39 PM Reply   
Bess with the Nikon bodies, they also have the same thing. It's auto iso where the camera will raise the Iso before it allows the shutter to drop below a shutter speed you select. You can also put a limit on how high you allow the ISO to go. When i use this function i put my maximum iso to 6400 and lowest shutter speed to 1/1000 if im looking to freeze the object.

Then i put my camera into aperture priority and select the aperture i want to use. If the conditions allow me too shoot at f/2.8 at iso 200 with a 1/1500 and then the light level goes down my shutter speed will drop to 1/1000 before the iso raises. The the iso would raise before dropping below 1/1000 of a second. i find it works very well in conditions with changing levels of light (i.e. shooting in shadowy conditions).

with the D3 you can do 6400iso for limit and 3200iso for the D300 allowing clean images if properly exposed


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