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Go Back   WakeWorld > >> Boats, Accessories & Tow Vehicles Archive > Archive through September 10, 2007

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Old    pwork (siuski)      Join Date: Feb 2003       08-08-2007, 6:48 AM Reply   
Dads got a '98 tige 2100i. He recently switched his trailer brakes over to disks. Doesn't tow much because he keeps the boat in a lift. The trailer brakes are sticking bad and causing a lot of heat. We've got a 6-8 hour tow for a houseboat trip this weekend. He has a new backup soilinoid on the way. Anyother ideas to solve this issue. He's tried all that he knows to do.
Old    Trace (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       08-08-2007, 7:39 AM Reply   
I converted to disk brakes a few years ago. They normally just run hotter than drums. I had to switch to high temperature grease after the first trip, because they boiled all the old grease out of the hubs.

If you are towing in mountains, you should put an override switch in the reverse solenoid wire that you can control from the dash. It will allow you to lock out your brakes on long downhills, which will prevent overheating.
Old    pwork (siuski)      Join Date: Feb 2003       08-08-2007, 8:32 AM Reply   
Good idea on the override switch. I'll mention that to him, I might have to do that to my truck as well. They got pretty hot towing in TN.
Old    Peter_C (peter_c)      Join Date: Sep 2001       08-08-2007, 8:56 AM Reply   
You need to change the master cylinder to one that is designed for disk brakes, that does not have residual valves. As said above you will also need to add in some type of reverse solenoid to cut the brakes loose, when backing up.
Old    Trace (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       08-08-2007, 1:04 PM Reply   
Not all disk conversions require a different MC. The instructions with mine directed me to punch a hole in the check valve to bleed residual pressure.
Old    pwork (siuski)      Join Date: Feb 2003       08-08-2007, 1:16 PM Reply   
I called him, and he said that he changed out the MC, the dealer he bought the kit off of thought that the check valve in the solinoid might be bad, so that is why he is getting another one. If that doesn't work, or he gets impatient, he may just bypass the solinoid altogether. Thanks for the help eveyone.
Old    Bob (bob)      Join Date: Feb 2001       08-09-2007, 1:15 AM Reply   
The adapter fitting betwen the MC and brake line is larger for the disk set-up then drum. Go here: http://www.championtrailers.com/DISC_BRAKE_INSTALLATION_ARTICLE.HTM

MY BRAKES ARE OVER HEATING
Disc brakes normally run hotter that drum brakes due to partial contact of pad and rotor during normal highway travel; whereas drum brakes have a return spring that retracts the brake shoes with virtually no contact between the shoes and drum.

Your disc brakes during normal highway travel should be "very warm", but still allow you to put your hands on the hub without burning. However during frequent braking periods, such as stop and go braking, they may be to hot to touch.

NOTE: IF BRAKE HEATING IS EXCESSIVE, CHECK THAT THE HOLE IN THE BRASS BRAKE LINE TUBING ADAPTER IS NOT OBSTRUCTED.

Also be sure that the master cylinder tubing adapter orifice is bored to a minimum of .0625" . This will facilitate the return flow of fluid to the master cylinder on the return stroke.
Old    Trace (trace)      Join Date: Feb 2002       08-09-2007, 6:24 AM Reply   
Champion does have a nice site. You could practically learn to build trailers with the info on there.

MY HUBS ARE SLINGING EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF GREASE**
Since disc brakes run hot, it is important to use a high Temperature grease specifically intended for disc brakes. Other greases may lose their viscosity at higher temperatures and liquefy, allowing them to sling out past the seal or dust cap. CHECK FOR WORN SEALS. In most installations it will be necessary to install SPINDLE-LUBE dust caps and bellows plugs, to allow the grease to expand during high temperature operation.

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